discussion Gloss, semi gloss, matt finish, lauqer, clear coat,tupertine... need explination

[Guest]

Gloss, semi gloss, matt finish, lacquer, clear coat, turpentine. What are the major differences and when would i use and not use these?

 

[eddiesolo]

Difference are really in the words: Gloss=high shine finish. Semi gloss=half shiny (inbetween a gloss and matt coat). Matt finish=flat paint look. Lacquer is a finishing coat (a varnish) available in gloss, semi and matt. Turps/white spirit is used for cleaning brushes, or for weathering, you can dilute paint or apply neat and then add a brush-full of turps/white spirit and the paint will thin and run, great for making pin washes (thinned paint for panel lines)

When to use is up to yourself: Build the model and then paint or part paint on the sprues, depends how comfortable you are. As for types of paint, enamel paints/acrylic, both have there uses. If you're doing a model OOB (out of the box) then picking the colours that are described in the instructions would be a good start. Once painted and dry, you can use other colours to do some weathering. Once all dry, a coat of varnish, gloss or matt can be added to protected the paintwork.

Si

 

[stona]

Just to clarify, turpentine (or more usually the substitute white spirits (UK)/mineral spirits (US)) is a solvent for solvent based paints like modelling enamels or oil paints. It won't go well with most acrylic paints.

Cellulose thinners (UK)/Lacquer thinners (US) is another 'hotter' solvent for the same and other lacquer based products like Alclad II.

Most acrylics thin with water or a branded thinner.

There's obviously a bit of generalisation above.

Cheers

Steve

 

[eddiesolo]

There's obviously a bit of generalisation above.

I agree Steve, I was trying to put down some basic pointers so have not really got into depth. As many modelers know once you get the basic it is case of adapting your paints to suit your build. I just thought that by following instruction painting guides would be more important than then trying to do everything and understanding everything.

Si

 

[stona]

Hi Si, I meant that I was generalising too, sorry for any misunderstanding

I think we agree that it's tricky to answer non-specific questions as it's difficult to know how far to go without writing a book!

I was just clarifying that tipping white spirits/mineral spirits into acrylic paint won't go well

I agree 100% that following a painting guide is a good place to start, researching builds is a whole other aspect of the hobby and each individual will decide how far they want to go with it. Also, many paint guides and decal sheets are very well researched, saving us the trouble.

Cheers

Steve

 

[eddiesolo]

LOl, no problem Steve. Thanks to this forum, and the likes of yourself and others my painting techniques have adapted. As you rightly say, how long is a piece a string, there are so many paints and combinations and techniques that there are books on it and even then things are added.

Si

 

[Guest]

Think the plot has been lost.

My thoughts are it depends entirely on the finish you want to display on your models.

Most , generalising otherwise I will get shot down (god you learn on this forum to cover yourself), military aircraft look best in a matt finish. I have seen some which are slightly satin (mid way between matt and gloss).

Cars which are in the real high gloss then that is the answer.

Commercial Aircraft seem to have a satin look.

Entering then into this fray is weathering then that changes the look mostly to matt.

For applying decal and of certain methods of weathering then the model is high glossed to achieve these features. When complete finished in satin matt or even high gloss.

So it is a great matter of personal preference. One thing which is certain high gloss is more difficult as it shows every imperfection as opposed to matt which is lenient.

Laurie