discussion Painting Order For Airbrushing

[Guest]

I've been brush painting my 1:32 mosquito so far (bar some simple inner fuselage spray), but now the painting of the masked exterior aproaches, to my horror....first time!


I have an airbrush of decent quality with variable pressure, Tamiya Acrylics (and thinner), some Valejo matt and silk varnish and that's it.


Question is, in what order do I do the exterior layers. By watching you tube it seems that the following is sensible...is it right tho!?


Mask


do any panel joint lining that I want


spray underbody grey


mask and spray camo green bits


24 hours drying


spray thinned varnish coat (silk?)


48 hours drying


apply transfers


do weathering and any detail emphasis


final varnish coat?


Does this make sense. All advice most welcome.


Build so far is here btw:


http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/tamiya-1-32-mosquito.33124/page-2#post-310977


regards to all


John.

 

[BarryW]

First prime.


Spray underside (no masking really needed)


wait 24 hours


Mask underside


Spray lighter top coat (grey)


wait 24 hours


mask camo pattern (using white tac snakes with masking tape infill or Panzer Putty type material)


Spray camo (green)


after a couple of hours remove masking


Spray a gloss coat, wait 24 hours, decal, wait 24 hours, sealing gloss coat.


Washes


Matt coat, pigment weathering, final matt coat, final weathering


That is about it, assuming that you are not going to pre-shade and modulate the base colour


If you want to do the latter I did a thread some time ago here is the link which takes you through a full paint/weathering process. This kit really is worth the extra effort.


http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/how-to-paint-and-weather-an-aircraft-model.27950/

 

[Guest]

Matt coat, pigment weathering, final matt coat, final weathering

Excellent...Thank you very much Barry.


I'm not sure of the ethics on naming makers here, so will avoid the issue, but I did buy a large bottle of matt varnish from a well known maker (not Valejo or Tamiya), used it and ended up with a powdery white build up of dried mess where it was thick. Was this my fault for being a clumsy so and so with a brush, or are some varnishes more equal that others?


Thanks.

 

[Guest]

What Barry says is spot on, most especially the waiting time. Rushing things is just an invitation to Captain Cockup!


However.... being that this is such a detailed, big, expensive kit I'd advise one more stage. Before embarking on the painting process, have a good practice session first, using all the steps & techniques suggested.


You could do this on an old pop bottle or plastic milk jug, but maybe you could get a new kit. One on the Airfix new tool ones & do that first to build up your confidence.


Just an idea!


Cheers


Patrick

 

[Guest]

Excellent...Thank you very much Barry.
I'm not sure of the ethics on naming makers here, so will avoid the issue, but I did buy a large bottle of matt varnish from a well known maker (not Valejo or Tamiya), used it and ended up with a powdery white build up of dried mess where it was thick. Was this my fault for being a clumsy so and so with a brush, or are some varnishes more equal that others?


Thanks.

We all name names here John! I'm guessing that was Humbrol Matt, same as I use? If so, the key is mixing it to within an inch of its life. The white powdery result is the matting agent separating from the carrier liquid.


I thin Humbrol Matt with white spirit 50:50 when airbrushing.

 

[Guest]

We all name names here John! I'm guessing that was Humbrol Matt, same as I use? If so, the key is mixing it to within an inch of its life. The white powdery result is the matting agent separating from the carrier liquid.
I thin Humbrol Matt with white spirit 50:50 when airbrushing.

Ah...cover blown. And I didn't do more than a friendly shake, so...my fault!.


Great idea about a trial run. I shall do so. Final question, Barry suggest two gloss coats later on in the process...is the gloss use because gloss is tougher? I don't want a shine I don't think.


Editted to say that I went to read Barry's detailed painting thread, and this question is answered there.

 

[stona]

Barry has suggested one gloss coat prior to decalling, which gives a nice smooth finish for the decals to go down on, thus much reducing the chance of silvering, and then a second to seal everything in. The second coat will protect the decals and provide a surface for most weathering techniques. It will also mean some potential cock ups will be easier to fix. If you ultimately want a satin or matte finish you can apply a coat of a suitable varnish at the end, over all the weathering etc.


It's how I go about it too.


Cheers


Steve

 

[BarryW]

John, the varnishes I use are Alclad Aqua Gloss and AKI Ultra Matt but have also used Vallejo Matt varnish. Shake very well!!!

 

[Robert1968]

We all name names here John! I'm guessing that was Humbrol Matt, same as I use? If so, the key is mixing it to within an inch of its life. The white powdery result is the matting agent separating from the carrier liquid.
I thin Humbrol Matt with white spirit 50:50 when airbrushing.

I'm so glad you mentioned that Patrick as I got my clear off John and shook the hell out of it but still was a cloudy white but thinned 50/50 and as you say it's perfect then and yes leaving to cure 24hrs is a must if not longer

 

[Guest]

Just make sure you get it as glossy as you can before you apply decals


Roger

 

[Guest]

thanks all.

 

[monica]

all very good advice,and maybe how it should be done,in the stages,


but for me,I do it my way,as at the moment I,m lucky being hot so the paint dry quickly,


so I prime ,let dry,


then lay down the base coat,and as the paint has not dry,and is still a little wet,


will do my mottling so that the paint dose blend in and not just sit on top,


this way dose work for me and maybe not how it should be done,but works well for me,


then if I need touchup work will come back over it,once dry,

 

[stona]

The decal silvering is a constant worry, to me at any rate. We probably need to go back a few steps!


Before priming, having satisfied myself that the model is filled and sanded to 'perfection' I wipe the whole thing down with isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to remove any dust and greasy fingerprints.


I then spray my primer.


I build aircraft which usually have a smooth, clean finish. Once my primer has thoroughly dried and cured, twenty four hours, I rub it down with a fine grit wet 'n' dry and then polish it with some denim material.


After that I will spray my paint.


Once that is dry I will polish it, usually just with some denim, but if for any reason it seems a little rough I'll use some used fine wet 'n' dry. I use enamel paints which can take this, others may not.


Only when I am happy with this will I apply varnishes for decalling etc. It may seem like a lot of work, but mucking up the final finish, decals and so on takes a lot longer to fix.


Cheers


Steve

 

[Guest]

Prime first (as Barry says). The purpose of masking the underside after painting it is to avoid overspray going on to the underside while spraying the upperside (that is, airbrush paint swirling round to the side other than the one being sprayed at that moment.) If overspray occurs on to the underside you would need to mask the upper half and re-paint the bottom. I usually put quite a lot of masking to avoid overspray.


While it is OK to spray the underside without masking the upper (except perhaps for the cockpit), you will need to take the underside paint sufficiently on to the upperside to go beyond the dividing line between the upper and undersides. Then, when you airbrush the upperside, you will need to put an edge of masking on the underside accurately up to that dividing line. Rub that line with a blunt cocktail stick to make sure it is well stuck. In fact, I usually brush a narrow line of Klear along the edge of the tape to prevent seepage under it which is very unsightly and, I find, difficult to avoid.


You say "spray thinned varnish coat (silk?)" before putting on the decals. I think it is normal practice to use gloss varnish, and to be sure, two coats. The reason is that if a matt surface is encountered by the decal, tiny pockets of air would become trapped,reflect light and cause the dreaded silvering, which can spoil a decal. You could just gloss varnish the areas where the decals will go, because you will probably be varnishing the entire model as the last step, either matt, semi matt or glossy, for mechanical protection.


As everyone says about airbrushing, practice a LOT, and don't be discouraged. Those big smooth shiny bottles of lemonade etc. from ASDA or Sainsburys etc. allow lots of practice. Acrylic paint can be removed with hot soap and water to allow reuse of the bottles. Practice with those before tackling a model. With planes, airbrushed paint tends to pool in the hollow at the wing roots, so move faster there.


Tell us how you got on.