discussion Panzer IV Ausf.D Build

[Guest]

Right. This is my first attempt at a Tamiya tank. When I was young I could only really afford Airfix, which were a smaller scale & less detailed.
So far this has been a learning curve...which is exactly how I'd intended it. I've needed to buy loads of 'stuff' as I go so the process is proving a lot slower than I'd imagined, especially with all the bloomin' filling!
Lessons learned:
1) My eyesight is pretty awful close up, so stronger glasses & a magnifying glass have been essential!
2) My fingers are much fatter than when I was 13!
3) My hands shake much more than I thought :smiling3:
4) I'd never bothered with filler 35 years ago...if it even existed!
5) Some acrylic paints really don't cover well...good old Humbrol worked much better!

With those caveats in mind. Here goes...

This is the construction shed:

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My first attempt at sanding filler. Luckily I started on the underside, quickly realising that the wet & dry I had intended to use was far too coarse. Off to the i-net for supplies!

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Construction of the upper & lower hull with some filling done. I'm going to put the tools etc on the hull after spraying. This could be wrong, but I'm going to try it anyway :smiling:

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(Mostly) complete turret filled & ready for sanding. The Cupola I'm not quite sure what to do with as I've 'blacked out' the commanders 'port holes'. The inside of the turret has been brush painted with Ivory requiring about 4 coats to cover the grey plastic. I'm considering leaving one of the side doors open, hence the work on the interior, but if it doesn't seem to work with what I have in mind, the turret side doors will be closed meaning I've wasted several hours...but not to worry.

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Wheels & tyres done. These took ages & tested my not so steady hand. Initially I painted the tyres on the sprue, but after removing them & gluing the halves together realised that indeed it is much easier to put them on narrow sticks (I used the wooden straws from a couple of those room diffusers)

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Lastly, for the moment. After having problems fitting the upper & lower hull together. I managed to get everything to seat comfortably without obstructing the muffler assembly.

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This process left a gap around the front drive wheel which I filled & sanded as best I could in the restricted space


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I'll update this as I go...

 

[Guest]

George.
I'm no expert , but those with experience will tell you that Tamiya are great kits and easy to assemble.
Looking at what you have achieved you should be well pleased. :thumb2:
If I may, when I use that white filler I've found it easier to use a damp cotton bud or thin rag to smooth out the filler, much easier at than spending time later rubbing it down.

I shall grab a seat near the front.
John.

 

[Mr Bowcat]

Agree with John, a damp cotton bud or finger tip straight after application of the filler will save a load of time later on.

 

[PaulTRose]

i agree with the guys about the filler, makes life so much easier

are you using a primer?, might help the paint going on

 

[Guest]

i agree with the guys about the filler, makes life so much easier

are you using a primer?, might help the paint going on

Thanks for the filler advice! I'll be making use of those tips asap!! :smiling:

Yes...just given the hull & turret two coats of primer:

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Quite pleased with how it looks now (most of) the filler is covered up. Just a weeny bit more sanding around the front plate to hide any joins & I'll be ready for a few coats of the grey.

 

[Guest]

Construction of the upper & lower hull with some filling done. I'm going to put the tools etc on the hull after spraying. This could be wrong, but I'm going to try it anyway :smiling:

There’s no real right or wrong way there — if you add them after painting you’ll have an easier time painting them but may end up with glue stains, if you add them before painting you avoid stains but may find painting them a bit more difficult. My advice would be to try it this way now, but on the next one glue them before painting, and see which you prefer.

The inside of the turret has been brush painted with Ivory requiring about 4 coats to cover the grey plastic.

With light paint over a dark(ish) plastic, I prefer to spay a coat of white primer from a can first.

Wheels & tyres done. These took ages & tested my not so steady hand.

You didn’t exactly pick the best model in this respect, no Panzer IVs are pretty bad, tyre-wise, because there’s so many of them and they’re fairly small (Tigers have about as many wheels, but the tyres are bigger and easier to paint, for example). Your best choice would have been something like a KV- or IS-series tank, as they have all-steel wheels

 

[Guest]

Jakko, I did think about a Panther (this being my fave WW2 tank), but opted for the IV as a cheaper 'starter' option (it's also my 2nd fave WW2 tank)...before trying something else. Trouble is I've bought a couple of AT guns, so am getting side-tracked as I'd like to have something to tow them with, or at least be next to...if I get as far as some kind of diorama. If... :smiling3:

Yes...next time I'll prime before doing light on dark. Silly not to have thought of it really :smiling4:

 

[Guest]

More progress. The idea was to spray fine black lines around the hatches, suspension & other areas that would benefit...alas I think I need some instruction with spraying fine lines as this was a disaster....

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Still. Onwards...first coat of grey covers all that up quite successfully!

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Meanwhile, the tools were painted last night. They look more shiny than they actually are due to the flash.

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[Guest]

I think I need some instruction with spraying fine lines as this was a disaster....

Just practice with your airbrush on a piece of cardboard or something.

Meanwhile, the tools were painted last night. They look more shiny than they actually are due to the flash.

The bolt cutters and the starter also had wooden handles, as I recall, and if I’m not mistaken the shafts of the bore-cleaning brush (the two rods with the thick end, above the shovel in your picture) were made from wood as well. Just thought I’d point this out before you fix them to the model

 

[Guest]

Thanks for that.
I did look here last night about the tools: http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/69201.aspx
But did wonder about the wooden handle on the crank & the bore-cleaning shaft. Tamiya state that they should be metallic grey which I was skeptical about. It seems that some tools were painted the overall grey colour from what I've understood from that link...I've not gone down that road (yet at least :smiling: ) instead choosing to give them a bit of 'wear' as best I could.
I wasn't sure either what colour the 'business' end of the bore brush would be, having opted for basically dark grey/black at this point.

 

[Guest]

George.
Personally I think the grey is ok, you can still do a pin wash around the hatches, and weld / cast lines to give some definition.
Jakko is quite right about practice. It's all to do with distance, pressure , and control. Remember most of us do not spray everyday, so it's not a skill that comes readily.
I love the shovel and axe, the shafts and the steel colours look really good .:thumb2:

John.

 

[Steve Jones]

The colouring of equipment is always an interesting debate George. There are different schools of thought on colours and what is wood and what isnt. Over time you will develop your own colour scheme that you are happy with. I like a lot of colour on my models so for example I would paint my jack yellow and have it heavily chipped as though it had been used in N, Africa and brought over to Europe. If you can justify a colour then use it:thumb2:

The build is coming along really well. Once all the other base coats are done you may want to consider doing some highlights on the raised areas if you are going to be weathering the tank.

The art of Black and White priming takes a great deal of practice but great fun trying to accomplish. Good luck with that on future builds.

Great to see the blog.

 

[Guest]

I did look here last night about the tools: http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/3/t/69201.aspx

There’s a Panzer III in that thread that nicely shows unpainted bolt cutter handles

But did wonder about the wooden handle on the crank & the bore-cleaning shaft. Tamiya state that they should be metallic grey which I was skeptical about. It seems that some tools were painted the overall grey colour from what I've understood from that link...

It’s always a difficult subject, and I must admit that detsilslike this on German vehicles aren’t my forté — for American ones it’s much easier (black-painted metal, OD-painted wood) but Germany seems to have a lot less standardisatioj hand not just in this).

 

[Guest]

3rd hull coat done. It's a bit rough (fine grade sandpaper) but I'm going to have to live with that I think. Putting the decals on might be problematic though...not sure really until I get there.

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I've also re-painted the tool's wooden handles & shafts a lighter colour which I think is a bit more how I imagine they'd be. I'll put some 'use' on them at some point.

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[Steven000]

Nice build so far George, the tools look good.
have fun
Cheers, Steven

 

[Guest]

3rd hull coat done. It's a bit rough (fine grade sandpaper) but I'm going to have to live with that I think. Putting the decals on might be problematic though...not sure really until I get there.

Do you have decal solution, like Micro Sol? That usually works well if applied liberally (once the decal is in position). On the other hand, these are Tamiya decals so they’ll probably work fine anyway — I don’t think I’ve ever seen silvering with them at all. If the underside of the model is as rough as the upper surfaces, you can always try with a spare decal on the bottom first.

 

[Guest]

Do you have decal solution, like Micro Sol?...

I do now....think it sounds like a worthwhile investment looking at the reviews. Thanks for the advice :smiling:

 

[Guest]

Beware that Micro Sol weakens the decal while it’s wet, so try not to move it if at all possible after applying it. If you’re putting a decal over things like ridges, recessed lines, grilles, etc., put it in place, press it down with a soft cloth, and apply Micro Sol. Leave that to sit for a few minutes so the decal gets soft, and while it’s still wet, press down again over the detail, and apply some more Micro Sol. Repeat as necessary. But be careful you don’t tear it

There’s also Micro Set, which goes under the decal to help it adhere, but to be honest I’ve never found it to actually do much — if a decal doesn’t stick, highly thinned white glue sticks it down very well too.

 

[Guest]

thank you

 

[Guest]

Exhaust(s) done. I'm pretty happy with the result...although not sure if it needs to be a little 'greyer'...

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