discussion Tamiya acrylic help !

[Guest]

Hi guys, wanted to ask a question about tamiya acrylics. Im currently starting a tamiya Ducati 916 and I noticed when applying the flat paint types such as XF-1 with a brush I could rub the paint off after about 30 odd minutes. Should I be washing the parts before painting or keying the surfaces, most I've painted so far are small parts so just wanted to know what im doing wrong or is it a case of just letting it dry over night ?

 

[AlanG]

I didn't think you could brush paint Tamiya acrylics?

 

[Guest]

Hi Dan

This may help some one wrote this following piece. Me thinks there must be easier ways of painting a model. If you manage all this it has got to be the best finish ever produced in the world otherwise why go through all these agonies. Not sure if Tamiya recommend a primer first. Do not know of any manufacturer that does not. Also according to information plastic has the residues of what ever is used to release from the mouldings which needs to be removed. Plastic is also so smooth it needs some very fine abrasion to provide stickability. Place a glue on a shine smooth surface & it will flick off. The same effect with paint.

Quote by ?

I just know some people are going to come in and knock Tamiya acrylics and say "use (insert brand name) instead.

The most common problem when painting with Tamiya acrylics is "roll-up", or simply your wet brush pulling up partially dried paint in big ugly lumps when your brush passes over semi-dry or apparently dry areas which have already been painted. Tamiya paints surface-dry very quickly and may appear to be dry, but actually take at least 12 hours to harden and cure.

Tamiya paints can be brushed successfully, ut just takes a little preparation and patience.

• Don't paint straight out of the jar - decant a small amount to a palette and paint from there
  
• Add a little Tamiya thinner to the paint on your palette. Just a small amount will do
  
• Pour a little clean thinner into another well on your palette
  
• Before dipping your brush in the paint, dip the tip of your brush in the clean thinner (just enough to slightly moisten it - you dont' want it wet)
  
• Dip your brush in the paint and apply to your model in short, even strokes, preferably in one direction. Paint to a "wet edge" - meaning if previously applied paint appears to be dry or semi-dry, don't brush over it - only brush over those areas where the paint appears to be wet. If any areas appear to need re-coating, allow it to cure overnight before doing so.
  
• Each time you re-load your brush, pick up a little clean thinner first, as described above.
  
• Over an extended painting session, if paint appears to be drying on your brush, clean it out before continuing to paint. dry paint on your brush will severely degrade the brush's performance and will impede the clean flow of paint from the brush to your model.
  
• IMPORTANT: Use good quality brushes - Look at higher grade synthetic or red sable artists brushes - they might be more expensive, but will last a long time if properly cared for.
  

 

[Guest]

Thanks for the info tecdes, im new to all this so your info was a big help, I think i'm going to also buy some enamels too, as i've been reading alot of posts and alot of people say that using both is the way to go.

 

[simontie]

ok i am no expert but i do find tamiya paints in general dry out realy quickly this can also be an advantage but more often its a pain!! - but personally i find giving any of the plastic parts a quick wash in mild green fairy liquid then a light rub with 1000 gauge makes a big differance surface primer helps - tamiya's is quite expencive but lasts a while. and on top of that it gives a good base coat and helps to bring the top coats.

if you look on ebay you can find iso propanol alcohol and it is a good substatute for thinners about the same cost as tamiya thinners but 100 times more or you could use windscreen wash the high grade stuff higher alcohol its normally blue but for some reason (i ant no chemist) it wont taint the true colours.

hope this is of some help.

simon

 

[Guest]

All the above is very good advice and if you're set on brush-painting with Tamiya you should go with it

On the other hand, if you want a less stressful brush-painting experience, get hold of some Vallejo Model Colour acrylics, alternatively the enamel paint you suggest will make your life much easier. You'll still get a better finish if you wash the parts first and personally I like to prime everything before I start

Tamiya is superb in the airbrush but it's very difficult to get a good finish with a brush

 

[Guest]

Thanks guys, I am airbrushing the larger parts and seemed to have no problems with the paint there it was just the brushing the smaller peices I was having the issues with. Thanks for all your help, fingers crossed as I haven't done much yet I can still make my models colours look good

By the way Andygh, i've heard alot of people praising Vallejo are they that much better brushed ?? Cause if so I may have to invest in some of those too. ? And also what primer do you use and do you use the primer on all the part prior to painting ?

 

[Guest]

All the above is very good advice and if you're set on brush-painting with Tamiya you should go with itOn the other hand, if you want a less stressful brush-painting experience, get hold of some Vallejo Model Colour acrylics, alternatively the enamel paint you suggest will make your life much easier. You'll still get a better finish if you wash the parts first and personally I like to prime everything before I startTamiya is superb in the airbrush but it's very difficult to get a good finish with a brush

I have to disagree re the brush painting Vallejo, I,d read this myself and tried it and either, I,d not had the extent of problems brushing tamiya acrylic others have or the vallejo really is no better but I found the performance to be about the same.Key things to remember areWash plastic parts, rinse well and leave to dryKeying the surfaces of large areas with fine w&d won't hurtPrime, aerosol plastic primer or airbrush (I use humbrol enamel matte grey/white/yellow/black depending on top colour)IMPORTANT let all surfaces fully CURE before topcoating, 12 hours minimum, longer for enamelsThe brush painting post above is similar to how I brush paint acrylic, i'd add, paint in a cool room, use tamiyas own thinners, it contains a retarder so the paint remains wet longer, IPA is fine for AB work, not so brushing. Don't try and cover with one coat, be prepared to use two or three thin ones.For the best brush results you can't beat enamels, thinned very slightly with enamel thinner it brushes excellently but takes longer to cure