discussion wash????

[Guest]

hey guys,

what does it mean when they say you can apply a wash to a model? how can i do it? also what is the best way to deepen or emphasize panel line, rivets, and recesses?

thanks

william

 

[Guest]

hey guys,what does it mean when they say you can apply a wash to a model? how can i do it? also what is the best way to deepen or emphasize panel line, rivets, and recesses?

thanks

william

William,

You have asked quite a question here of wich i do have the answers for you. First off how big a scale are you working on. I will send you some details once i know the size of the job.

Andy

 

[Guest]

William,You have asked quite a question here of wich i do have the answers for you. First off how big a scale are you working on. I will send you some details once i know the size of the job.

Andy

haha im thought it was! thanks for your help i do 1/48 scale aircraft.

william

 

[jspitza]

Ah yes, the coolest thing since sliced bread! Well, if you are using acrylics or your final base coat is acrylic, than you would use a extremely diluted mixture of spirits\thinner and say raw umber or black\browns. If your final base coat is enamel, use a diluted mix of the acrylic paint and acrylic thinner (Tamiya, alcohol ect) Remember that opposets don't eat each other. The goal is to have a watery mix-dam close to clear! and let it flow into the panel lines and rivets, ect. You could also purchase pro modeller weathering wash and just start with it. Once you've coated the model or part, let dry and wipe off the excess, Remember to ALWAYS use the opposite paint and thinners on the final coat of paint or else you'll wipe away the paint job instantly! Acrylic thinner won't eat enamel and white or mineral spirits won't harm acrylics. Check out my new post from today, second to last pictures and you can see what a wash will do. Its just a blob of black paint and a few drops of thinner. Take care and post pics!

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/planes/6738-new-build-il2-sturmovik1-48-a.html#post45229

 

[Guest]

Ah yes, the coolest thing since sliced bread! Well, if you are using acrylics or your final base coat is acrylic, than you would use a extremely diluted mixture of spirits\thinner and say raw umber or black\browns. If your final base coat is enamel, use a diluted mix of the acrylic paint and acrylic thinner (Tamiya, alcohol ect) Remember that opposets don't eat each other. The goal is to have a watery mix-dam close to clear! and let it flow into the panel lines and rivets, ect. You could also purchase pro modeller weathering wash and just start with it. Once you've coated the model or part, let dry and wipe off the excess, Remember to ALWAYS use the opposite paint and thinners on the final coat of paint or else you'll wipe away the paint job instantly! Acrylic thinner won't eat enamel and white or mineral spirits won't harm acrylics. Check out my new post from today, second to last pictures and you can see what a wash will do. Its just a blob of black paint and a few drops of thinner. Take care and post pics! http://www.scale-models.co.uk/planes/6738-new-build-il2-sturmovik1-48-a.html#post45229

ok but how would i apply it? do you use your airbrush? what colors do you use for different base coats on the model? im sorry i have so many questions but i really want to learn how to do this as i think that is what really"makes" the model stand out? just to let you know, i use enamels for ererything. never used acrylics. thanks for taking the time to help!

william

 

[Guest]

Painting a 15mm M5A1 Stuart

Don't know if this is of any use to you, much smaller scale but...

 

[Guest]

As Jspitza said, use opposites: oils on acrylic, acrylic on enamels, etc. Simply apply with a brush. I wouldn't use anything too small, but a fine tip brush is useful. Load it up with the liquid and put the tip of the brush in the panel lines, grooves or whatever you want. The liquid will flow into the recesses. Any excess can be easily wiped away. I found that a couple seperate applications may be necessary to add severe contrast, but that is better than making a thicker wash as there is less chance of screwing up.

Zack

 

[Guest]

As Jspitza said, use opposites: oils on acrylic, acrylic on enamels, etc. Simply apply with a brush. I wouldn't use anything too small, but a fine tip brush is useful. Load it up with the liquid and put the tip of the brush in the panel lines, grooves or whatever you want. The liquid will flow into the recesses. Any excess can be easily wiped away. I found that a couple seperate applications may be necessary to add severe contrast, but that is better than making a thicker wash as there is less chance of screwing up. Zack

thanks for the advice. can i use artist oils and thin it with tupentine on enamel models?

thanks again

william

 

[jspitza]

Yes! I am starting to use oil for washes and they have turned out great!

 

[Guest]

Yes! I am starting to use oil for washes and they have turned out great!

Sweet! that great news, when you apply it you use a brush leave it on for a few seconds and then wipe it off?

 

[stona]

Normally washes are applied after decals which means in my case there will be several coats of Klear on the model. (used to be Future, now Klear with future shine or something, in the U.S)

This gives some protection to your paint job if you do make a mistake. Whatever your sealing coat make sure it is really dry and cured before applying your wash.

I have a particularly "dirty" Bf 109 where the wash has eaten into the Klear 'cos I didn't leave it long enougth! This was unfortunate for me as I feel a lot of models are overweathered - and that one certainly is!!

Done properly washes really enhance the finished model.

Good luck with it

Steve

 

[Guest]

Normally washes are applied after decals which means in my case there will be several coats of Klear on the model. (used to be Future, now Klear with future shine or something, in the U.S)This gives some protection to your paint job if you do make a mistake. Whatever your sealing coat make sure it is really dry and cured before applying your wash.

I have a particularly "dirty" Bf 109 where the wash has eaten into the Klear 'cos I didn't leave it long enougth! This was unfortunate for me as I feel a lot of models are overweathered - and that one certainly is!!

Done properly washes really enhance the finished model.

Good luck with it

Steve

thanks steve,

when you apply the future klear, how do you apply it? is that the best product to use or could i use testors clear flat laquer that comes in a spray can? just asking cuz i have the testors already but havent used it.

thanks

william

 

[stona]

thanks steve,when you apply the future klear, how do you apply it? is that the best product to use or could i use testors clear flat laquer that comes in a spray can? just asking cuz i have the testors already but havent used it.

thanks

william

Okay - I think everyone does this in the same order though their methods may vary.

After painting the model allow the paint to cure (I leave for at least 24 hrs). I apply a coat or two of Klear. I'm sure any other clear GLOSS coat would work but Klear is cheap and easy to use. I apply by brush as Klear is a self levelling floor polish and brush marks are not a problem, others spray. The Klear coat(s) serve two purposes. Firstly it seals and protects your beautiful paint job! Secondly it dries to a very smooth and glossy finish. This is VERY important for decaling. Decals applied to a gloss surface are much less likely to silver. Silvering is caused by air trapped under the decal and is more likely on a matte, i.e. rough, surface. I would strongly advise against applying decals over a matte finish.

When everything is dry I apply my weathering. You could write a book on this!! Everyone has their own methods but most techniques are well covered both here and on other modelling sites. Loads of people will give advice, just ask.

Next I want to seal everything in and give the model its final finish. If you want a flat (matte) finish this is the stage at which you would spray your flat coat(s).

Sorry to be long winded - I hope I haven't added any confusion!!

Steve

Oh, forgot to say don't rush. Allow plenty of time for the various coats to dry before moving to the next stage. (See "dirty 109" in my earlier response!)

 

[Guest]

Okay - I think everyone does this in the same order though their methods may vary.After painting the model allow the paint to cure (I leave for at least 24 hrs). I apply a coat or two of Klear. I'm sure any other clear GLOSS coat would work but Klear is cheap and easy to use. I apply by brush as Klear is a self levelling floor polish and brush marks are not a problem, others spray. The Klear coat(s) serve two purposes. Firstly it seals and protects your beautiful paint job! Secondly it dries to a very smooth and glossy finish. This is VERY important for decaling. Decals applied to a gloss surface are much less likely to silver. Silvering is caused by air trapped under the decal and is more likely on a matte, i.e. rough, surface. I would strongly advise against applying decals over a matte finish.

When everything is dry I apply my weathering. You could write a book on this!! Everyone has their own methods but most techniques are well covered both here and on other modelling sites. Loads of people will give advice, just ask.

Next I want to seal everything in and give the model its final finish. If you want a flat (matte) finish this is the stage at which you would spray your flat coat(s).

Sorry to be long winded - I hope I haven't added any confusion!!

Steve

Oh, forgot to say don't rush. Allow plenty of time for the various coats to dry before moving to the next stage. (See "dirty 109" in my earlier response!)

no no, not confused! thanks alot for taking the time to explain it to me, i would be lost if not for this site!

thanks

william