Phils' Dragon Me262A-1/U4

[PhilJ]

Turns out trying to fit the fuselage together was difficult what with the massive gun and loses panels, a little shaving here and there and it's together.


The gun once glued onto its seat turned out to be a little out of alignment which was an absolute pig to rectify but I killed two birds with one stone by jamming one side with some non toxic lead fishing weights which shifted it slightly and added a little weight as these birds are a little tail heavy.


I then realised the gun loading door/hatch wouldn't be able to be opened due to the poor mould of the access panel but that has now been shaved and hopefully I'm there.


The worst thing is that I had to open the hole up for the slightly bigger but more accurate aftermarket gun barrel, it's been glued but I'll have to be careful not to knock it now until the end.


Comments welcomed as always


Cheers


Phil

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[Guest]

With aftermarket accessories, you ALWAYS have to be ready for shaving and modifications. I sometimes have to use my razor saw, and hack out chunks of plastic before putting in the engine or replacement gunbay.


Also another thing, All sorts of protrusions (yes, this also means a big whopping flak gun on a 262) should be left until the painting has been completed and most of teh things have been done. Take note of that with the Morane Saulnier mast and the aerial mast towards the rear underbelly of the aircraft. The gun breech handle could also benefit from a few scratches from a silver pencil or a highly controlled paintbrush loaded with a metallic silver


The Dragon 262 is definitely not the best 262 out there, so don't be too surprised-this is not present in the Tamiya one. I have the A-1a version, and mould quality is excellent. The HB one is good, but can't compete with the Tamiya for fit, so if you are looking for a relaxing build after this, look at Tamiya's kits, such as it's 1/48 or 1/72 mossie. That is an amazing kit all round


Concerning the piping, note the allies used red and the germans used yellow and grey.


Looking good otherwise. I especially like the rounds. Just make sure they don't get too shiny

[PhilJ]

With aftermarket accessories, you ALWAYS have to be ready for shaving and modifications. I sometimes have to use my razor saw, and hack out chunks of plastic before putting in the engine or replacement gunbay.
Also another thing, All sorts of protrusions (yes, this also means a big whopping flak gun on a 262) should be left until the painting has been completed and most of teh things have been done. Take note of that with the Morane Saulnier mast and the aerial mast towards the rear underbelly of the aircraft. The gun breech handle could also benefit from a few scratches from a silver pencil or a highly controlled paintbrush loaded with a metallic silver


The Dragon 262 is definitely not the best 262 out there, so don't be too surprised-this is not present in the Tamiya one. I have the A-1a version, and mould quality is excellent. The HB one is good, but can't compete with the Tamiya for fit, so if you are looking for a relazing build after this, look at Tamiya's kits, such as it's 1/48 or 1/72 mossie. That is an amazing kit all round


Concerning the piping, note the allies used red and the germans used yellow and grey.


Looking good otherwise. I especially like the rounds. Just make sure they don't get too shiny

Hi John,


I learnt leaving all the fiddly protrusions to the end would be a good idea after the spit.


Unfortunately after test fitting (and I have found I have spent a lot of time doing this with this kit) I found the gun wasn't going to sit straight and the hole at the front had to be made larger. The only option I felt was to superglue the barrel to the gun the glue and jam it straight. The last thing I wanted was a finished plane and a wonky barrel sticking out the front.


Anyhow it's in and straight which is nice I just need to be a bit careful.


Wings are on and engines underway, the fit was horrible so another load of dry fitting and filling and some new photos to follow shortly.


When you say piping colours do you mean for the engine? I have some photos ready for painting.

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[papa 695]

Nice work so far Phil

[stona]

The tail dragger prototype most recognised is the Me 262 V3, PC+UC, werknummer 262 000 0003,because it was extensively photographed and filmed. The film of its maiden flight on 18th July 1942 survives.


Others were the Me 262 V1 (PC+UA, W.Nr. 262 000 0001) which had a Jumo 210 G engine (and obviously a propeller) in the nose, but flew with a couple of BMW P.3302 engines and eventually Jumo 004As bolted to the wings, and the V2 (PC+UB) and V4 (PC+UD).


None of them carried the werknummer on the fin as series production aircraft would.


The first to have a tricycle undercarriage was the V5 (PC+UE)


With the exception of V1 they all wore a version of the standard fighter camouflage scheme (RLM 74 and 75 over RLM 76).


Cheers


Steve

[Guest]

With the engine- it generally varied in terms of finishes However, they tended to be metallic colours only. A real (yellow piping on the engine would tend to be inaccurate unless portraying an aircraft from JG 7, such as rudolf sinner's aircraft, as that displays paint on the actual pipping on the engine


I have been to the US 262 in Washington, and managed to check out the engine with the top cowling off-unfortunately no pictures were allowed due to copyright and c*** (that's how the americans are!),but it tended to have a reddish sheen to everything which was meant to be an anti corrosive paint


The general colour for the piping would be a dark matt gunmetal


here are some pics-


This is one of werknummer 500071, the most authentic me 262 in the world


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This is the australian 262, the second most authentic one surviving


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[Guest]

Hi John,
I learnt leaving all the fiddly protrusions to the end would be a good idea after the spit.


Unfortunately after test fitting (and I have found I have spent a lot of time doing this with this kit) I found the gun wasn't going to sit straight and the hole at the front had to be made larger. The only option I felt was to superglue the barrel to the gun the glue and jam it straight. The last thing I wanted was a finished plane and a wonky barrel sticking out the front.


Anyhow it's in and straight which is nice I just need to be a bit careful.


Wings are on and engines underway, the fit was horrible so another load of dry fitting and filling and some new photos to follow shortly.


When you say piping colours do you mean for the engine? I have some photos ready for painting.

No- I meant generally for the aircraft- the americans and brits and aussies favoured red for fuel, hydraulic and electrical piping whiile the germans favoured yellow for electrics and fuel. However, those colours normally appeared on in line engines such as the fw 190D dora, 109, 110, he 111, me 410 and so on. Paint was used sparingly in 1944-45, so you don't have to paint everything. Stick to the natural colour the piping or electrical cabling would be


otherwise, the piping is in the right place where it should be


Some nice work on the piping on the engine, just make sure it is accurate to reference

[PhilJ]

No- I meant generally for the aircraft- the americans and brits and aussies favoured red for fuel, hydraulic and electrical piping whiile the germans favoured yellow for electrics and fuel. However, those colours normally appeared on in line engines such as the fw 190D dora, 109, 110, he 111, me 410 and so on. Paint was used sparingly in 1944-45, so you don't have to paint everything. Stick to the natural colour the piping or electrical cabling would be
otherwise, the piping is in the right place where it should be

I had problems sourcing thin yellow cabling for underneath the tub so had to make do with what I had, not ideal but Had to do something.


I have seen them pics and also the following which I may follow, thanks for all the help an comments so far.

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[Guest]

I had problems sourcing thin yellow cabling for underneath the tub so had to make do with what I had, not ideal but Had to do something.
I have seen them pics and also the following which I may follow, thanks for all the help an comments so far.

I think that's why we are on forums- for feedback and help! Btw, I really do like the gunsight and the acetate- that is really looking more to scale as compared to the old one


Yes. that is werknummer 500071. That aircraft is excellent reference. Don't forget the trim vein for the onion cone on the end


Yeah that's fine really up to the builder. However, it can always be sprayed the desired colour as long as it is not vinyl, which has awful paint adhesion properties.


Btw, does your kit come with the ordinance such as the R4M and werfgrenate 21 mortars or have dragon stinged on extras again?


John

[Guest]

The tail dragger prototype most recognised is the Me 262 V3, PC+UC, werknummer 262 000 0003,because it was extensively photographed and filmed. The film of its maiden flight on 18th July 1942 survives.
Others were the Me 262 V1 (PC+UA, W.Nr. 262 000 0001) which had a Jumo 210 G engine (and obviously a propeller) in the nose, but flew with a couple of BMW P.3302 engines and eventually Jumo 004As bolted to the wings, and the V2 (PC+UB) and V4 (PC+UD).


None of them carried the werknummer on the fin as series production aircraft would.


The first to have a tricycle undercarriage was the V5 (PC+UE)


With the exception of V1 they all wore a version of the standard fighter camouflage scheme (RLM 74 and 75 over RLM 76).


Cheers


Steve

Some really informative stuff there. I will have to bear this in mind when I do my 262 V9 build

[PhilJ]

I think that's why we are on forums- for feedback and help! Btw, I really do like the gunsight and the acetate- that is really looking more to scale as compared to the old one
Yes. that is werknummer 500071. That aircraft is excellent reference. Don't forget the trim vein for the onion cone on the end


Yeah that's fine really up to the builder. However, it can always be sprayed the desired colour as long as it is not vinyl, which has awful paint adhesion properties.


Btw, does your kit come with the ordinance such as the R4M and werfgrenate 21 mortars or have dragon stinged on extras again?


John

I'll have another look but I don't think there's any ordnance on it, really looking forward to getting it finished now and have to be careful not to rush in finishing.


I have six in the stash now and am close on closing in on a hasegawa stuka and typhoon which look great but I must stop buying planes and start buying more etch, resin and paints to be honest. It's a very addictive hobby I'm finding!

[Guest]

I'll have another look but I don't think there's any ordnance on it, really looking forward to getting it finished now and have to be careful not to rush in finishing.
I have six in the stash now and am close on closing in on a hasegawa stuka and typhoon which look great but I must stop buying planes and start buying more etch, resin and paints to be honest. It's a very addictive hobby I'm finding!

Interesting. Meant to be the SUPER VALUE PACK lol.


I am laughing now- you should see how many extras I have for the Tamiya 1/48 D-9. I feel a little guilty. o_OLiterally I have about 8 kilograms worth of Eduard and Rb fabric and that doesn't include decals, metal barrels, plastic upgrades, conversions and resin.


It is good to build up an aftermarket stash-they really add the extra to your model.


Will be good to see the Stuka get built up. That is an excellent kit that goes together in Hasegawa fashion (which is a really good thing btw) and their kits have outstanding recessed panel lines.


Personally, I would refrain from buying am and kits, and build up the toolbox, especially paints. A personal choice by me would be to build up a collection of Gunze paints. They are arguably the most accurate colour matches, and they airbrush amazingly well. I primarily use it, but use enamels and vallejo for brush painting

[PhilJ]

Slow progress due to recent events but some pictures here none the less, canopy is masked and the second engine has had some weight added to counter the resin.


Wiring shown is made from soft lead wire and fine copper, cable braces/ties are fine strips of tamiya tape wrapped all primed then painted. Think the engine will look better once weathered at the end where some soft and shuttle oily colours will be added


The last shot shows the big gun in its bay, gun door will be added at the end.


Cheers

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[papa 695]

Great work so far Phil

[Guest]

Looking good Phil - the engine is excellent!