First real plane for 40 yrs, a Revell 1/32 Bf 109 G 10

[Si Benson]

Looking Good to me mate:thumb2:
These flying things are a whole new ball game to us armour modellers Bob.
The principal may be similar but painting as you build takes some getting used to:surprised:

[BattleshipBob]

Thanks Si, sure is different!!

[Guest]

As this is a 'practice' build i have not been too fussy ref the actual colours so just followed the plans. As i hopefully improve i will then look at the rlm colours for acuracy


Had a look and i have got rlm o2 in a vallejo luftwaffe paint set, so will use that instead.

If you have it, why not, eh? BTW, the wheel hubs should be very dark grey, in case the instructions say something else there too.

[BattleshipBob]

Thanks Jakko

Bob

[BattleshipBob]

more progress added flaps and rudder etc, can se a more tidying up to do and some more filler needed










started to repaint the wheel wells with RLM 02, thanks jakko!

getting there!!

bob

[Wouter]

progress is nice 'n steady it seems, blimey, it even looks like a plane already. You're going at lightningspeed Bob Keep up the good work. If this keeps going on like this I'll put my BF109 flight jacket on and hop in to take her for a ride!

Cheers

[BattleshipBob]

Hi Wouter

One problem with a test flight, no engine so it will have to be towed lol

been getting over pneumonia so a bit of time for plane bashing, still learning as I go and yes making making mistakes, not impressed with the under carriage, in two bits and not very strong!

bob

[Si Benson]

Looking proper clean a tidy Bob :thumb2:

[stona]

It is entirely plausible that the wheel wells on such a late production aircraft would be left unpainted. I think Revell have done their research.

I don't know which aircraft you are building, but it is also plausible that much of the underside would be unpainted too.

This was authorised, first in a trial of 50 aircraft from the Focke-Wulf Sorau factory in June/July 1944, to speed production and reduce the resources required. The aircraft were not expected to last for long.

The two step painting process had long been abandoned and one coat lacquers by Warnecke and Bohm, which could be applied directly to light metals were used. Some late war aircraft received a very light coat of camouflage lacquer, barely covering the metal.

This is a Bf 109 K I built some time ago. It's difficult to see, but the inner wing panels are unpainted.



Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

it even looks like a plane already.

I’m guessing Bob picked a 109 because it’s about as angular as a StuG. Should have gone for an early variant though, with the conical spinner

[BattleshipBob]

Hi Si getting there!

Thanks Steve, i now a fair bit about the mighty Stug but bugger all about most planes so the info is great, many thanks

Hi Jakko, in my mad world i would compare the A10 warthog to the super Stug, now time for my tablets lol

Bob

[BattleshipBob]

Hi all

After a big problem with priming it and a nasty paint reaction, which involved sanding down the primer and starting again. I have started with the dark top colours, not following any pattern or markings. This is one big practice build.

Does anyone wash the kit again prior to painting??? Can only think that was the problem as I sprayed the same primer on to a practice piece of plastic with no problems??

This has been a much bigger learning curve that I thought it would, i.e. a first go at re-scribing panel liners went well and truly pear shaped







I spray in my garage & its not the best place, cold, dusty, poor lighting etc, there are a few dust spots in the paint but I can sort that out, this is the 2 second coat and one more to go

getting there, deffo need much more practice lol

Please do not look to close!!

bob

[AlanG]

Every time someone builds a kit of any type they learn something new. So what if this is more a learning curve then you're used to. Nothing wrong with stepping out of your comfort zone to try new things.

Doing great so far.

[Wouter]

Glad you solved the primer issue mate. Basecoat looks good!
I never clean my models, from time to time I degrease them with lighter fluid but in general I don't. Depends on the paints you use. Tamiya paints and Mr. Hobby paints and primer bite well in the plastic when thinned with Lacquer Thinner or Mr. Levelling thinner. Other acrylics on the other hand are more sensitive to greasy surfaces though.

Keep up the good work StuGmeister!

[BattleshipBob]

Hi Al, looks better than i thought it would, however i can see a few seam issues and that terrible scribing!

Evening Wouter. The primer went onto the plane and sat in small spots? I tried on a plastic test card with no problems, so not the brush or the paint! Never washed a Stug as well. Many thanks

Bob