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Airfix Stuka Ju 87B-2 1/48

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  • Guest

    #16
    What paint are you using John? If it's Vallejo, then it's normal & preferable to have a couple of thin, almost translucent coats at first.

    The subsequent coats will go down fine with good colour coverage. For Model Colour my ratio is 4:1 thinner/ paint & Model Air 1:1.

    Cheers

    Patrick

    Comment

    • Dave W
      • Jan 2011
      • 4713

      #17
      Originally posted by \
      If you have noticed in the first photo in the second posting of photos, I have scratch built an ammo belt.... Any reply on this and if anything is wrong, some constructive feedback would be appreciated. The eduard seatbelts were exceptional, yes I completely agree. Their photo etch metal was not wafer thin, nor was it overly thick. The instrument panels were also well developed. A little nice touch would be to have some parts self adhesive, but overall I would give 5***** to eduard on this product. I have been experiencing some problems in my airbrushing where the paint seems overly clear and sprays well, but too runny. Does this mean I have been using too much thinner?John
      Eduard do make self adhesive PE sets.But when I used one on my TSR2 I found they didn't stick very well.So I ended up glueing them on with CA.

      Comment

      • Guest

        #18
        New Update! The air brake controllers (or whatever you call them please correct me if I am wrong) were extremely fragile and finicky. Thankfully, Ido not have massive hands and with the aid of Cyanoacrylate, tweezers and Revell's special needle glue, I managed to glue these extremely well.

        John

        [ATTACH]80636.IPB[/ATTACH]

        [ATTACH]80637.IPB[/ATTACH]

        [ATTACH]80638.IPB[/ATTACH]





        Comment

        • flyjoe180
          SMF Supporters
          • Jan 2012
          • 12463
          • Joe
          • Earth

          #19
          Nice work on the actuators and dive brakes John.

          Comment

          • Lee W
            SMF Supporters
            • Feb 2014
            • 4656
            • Lee
            • Sherborne

            #20
            John, your added details are making this into an excellent build...

            Lee

            Comment

            • Guest

              #21
              I am in Modeller's depression... I have lost the rear facing MG 81. Looks as if I have to get eduards brassin sets. If anybody can help, I will gladly pay the postage..

              John

              Comment

              • Guest

                #22
                Just ordered the Eduard Brassin guns... I will have to wait ages from them to come from the UK. Anyway, I have not seized work on the stuka as I have now commenced painting the camo.

                John

                [ATTACH]80890.IPB[/ATTACH]

                [ATTACH]80891.IPB[/ATTACH]

                [ATTACH]80892.IPB[/ATTACH]

                [ATTACH]80893.IPB[/ATTACH]

                [ATTACH]80894.IPB[/ATTACH]

                [ATTACH]80895.IPB[/ATTACH]











                Comment

                • flyjoe180
                  SMF Supporters
                  • Jan 2012
                  • 12463
                  • Joe
                  • Earth

                  #23
                  Good progress John, a shame about the machine gun but the rest of it is looking pretty good.

                  Comment

                  • monica
                    • Oct 2013
                    • 15169

                    #24
                    great work so far John, the detailing in the cockpit i real like and that seat turned out so well,

                    Comment

                    • Guest

                      #25
                      Recently, I bought the Gunze bottle opener set due to many of my Mr Hobby paints getting really tight and unable to be opened.. I bought this to open it and it worked really well with the bottom stuff being really grippy and the top sliding on perfectly and opening it really neatly. It opens all three types of Gunze paint jarts as well. Apparently, It works well for the Tamiya paint jars as well. So if you use either of these paint brands, this is a must. I started painting the upper camouflage as well and that went extremely well along with the masking. In my opinion, I find luftwaffe camouflage the easiest WW2 camo to paint using airbrushes.

                      John

                      [ATTACH]80934.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]80935.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]80936.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]80937.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]80938.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]80939.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]80940.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]80941.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]80942.IPB[/ATTACH]

                      [ATTACH]80943.IPB[/ATTACH]



















                      Comment

                      • monica
                        • Oct 2013
                        • 15169

                        #26
                        coming along nicely John, i do like the camo , with the straight lines as well,

                        looks to be very handy ,and i find the same very thing happening, i run under worm to hot water,

                        then use the handle of a pair off pliers , to open, nice little tool to have about,thanks for showing,

                        Comment

                        • Guest

                          #27
                          Originally posted by \
                          coming along nicely John, i do like the camo , with the straight lines as well,looks to be very handy ,and i find the same very thing happening, i run under worm to hot water,

                          then use the handle of a pair off pliers , to open, nice little tool to have about,thanks for showing,
                          Yep it is very handy and good to use with my tamiya and gunze Mr hobby paints as I didn't use one pot of paint for about 4 months and it was gummed up rock hard due to the paint residue getting stuck in the thread. So as an easy way to avoid this, always wipe the threads before replacing the cap...

                          John

                          Comment

                          • monica
                            • Oct 2013
                            • 15169

                            #28
                            ta John , you know i never do that at all and as you said it will help

                            Comment

                            • Guest

                              #29
                              Originally posted by \
                              ta John , you know i never do that at all and as you said it will help
                              Yep and it is a lot cheaper than getting the actual gunze tool as it costed around 17 aistralian dollars!

                              John

                              Comment

                              • monica
                                • Oct 2013
                                • 15169

                                #30
                                oh ouch ,i real hate the cost of any think to do with the word Hobby they mark it up by !00 % for that word

                                i hate to say but i can get most things cheaper oversea, ,just dont like the waiting part thats all,

                                Comment

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