Airfix 1/72nd Westland Sea King HC.4

[Miko]

Vallejo acrylics with their thinner and a touch of flow improver.

A fist full of cotton buds a bottle of acrylic thinners (recommend Tamiya lacquer thinner) a fresh respirator filter a well ventilated room and you'll be done in no time! certainly quicker than brush painting!

Miko (been there done that, easy peasy)

I meant chemical paint strip, which paint type do you use?

Miko (I wouldn't sand paint to strip it)

Vallejo acrylics with their thinner and a touch of flow improver.

[The Smythe Meister]

.......
so I'm just going to 'attempt' to paint over the damage by hand, yes there will be brush lines but I don't care, I just want this done and forgotten now. haha

Not necessarily Steve, make sure you thin the paint well and apply many thin layers, just as you would if spraying,that way you should'nt get brush marks. :thumb2:

[Miko]

Stripping it back would be the best option but not a route I feel I want to go down. I'm liable to do some damage trying to sand various bits of it getting all the paint off.

I meant chemical paint strip, which paint type do you use?

Miko (I wouldn't sand paint to strip it)

Stripping it back would be the best option but not a route I feel I want to go down. I'm liable to do some damage trying to sand various bits of it getting all the paint off.

You're right about the brush painting though, just had a go on one side and although it looks better than the disaster, it looks like an eight year old painted it. (no offence to any eight year old modellers here)

I will finish it, but it'll then be hidden in a dark place away from any eyes. haha!

[Miko]

Just ordered some low adhesive masking tape from the shop, it's too late for this model but hopefully this won't happen next time.
it's just a case of damage limitation with this model, I've decided it would be wrong to give in and bin it, I need to keep it as a lesson,
so I'm just going to 'attempt' to paint over the damage by hand, yes there will be brush lines but I don't care, I just want this done and forgotten now. haha

Don't let it beat you! you've learned from your mistake so time to come up with a solution

If it were mine I'd strip the paint back to bare plastic and repaint, you're never going to be happy with brush painting.

It'll take time and won't be easy, but it can be done!

Imagine how you'll feel once it's got it's nice new coat of paint, the sense of achievement will be huge!

The secret to a great paint job is preparation preparation preparation!!


Miko (on three. . . 1 - 2- 3: Gooooooooooooooo SteveT!!)

There's your problem Steve. Think of it as a learning exercise, and well done for having a go. I wouldn't have been brave enough to mask that camo on a helicopter.
Pete

Thank you.

[stillp]

I'll be honest, I was going to buy some masking tape but found an old roll of white masking tape I had here, but it's just normal every day masking tape.

There's your problem Steve. Think of it as a learning exercise, and well done for having a go. I wouldn't have been brave enough to mask that camo on a helicopter.
Pete

[Mark1]

Thats interesting as I find the same with tamiya tape. The adhesive is so thick that the tape "floats" around on it, making accurate masking tricky.

Might have to give the Mr hobby stuff a go :thumb2:

Thought it was just me that thought that.:smiling6:

[Mark1]

Oops

Just ordered some low adhesive masking tape from the shop, it's too late for this model but hopefully this won't happen next time.
it's just a case of damage limitation with this model, I've decided it would be wrong to give in and bin it, I need to keep it as a lesson,
so I'm just going to 'attempt' to paint over the damage by hand, yes there will be brush lines but I don't care, I just want this done and forgotten now. haha

[Ancientmariner]

Steve, happens to everyone and frustrated doesn't even start to cut the feeling.
I have found a big issue with plastic kits is the surface being very clean prior to painting. I was with soapy warm water and then after that make sure I do not handle the kit without nitrile gloves so it gets no grease on it.
Furthermore masking tape I only use Tamiya or Mr Hobby. They cost a bit more however it's all about avoiding that feeling you get as you peel back and watch the paint come with it. Lastly angle is important when removing the tape, pull it slowly almost back across itself.

Paint over the damage, chalk it up to experience as it's a great looking camo and a shame to waste a great build. After you've weathered it you won't even notice. Carry on the great work!

[Andy T]

i lot of people love tamiya tape but i think the adhesive is to thick myself and personally am not a big fan of it,ive started using mr hobby low adhesive tape as well as there standard tape,

Thats interesting as I find the same with tamiya tape. The adhesive is so thick that the tape "floats" around on it, making accurate masking tricky.

Might have to give the Mr hobby stuff a go :thumb2:

[Mark1]

In all fairness though all credit to you for giving the camo a go, i bottled it for ages before giving it a go lol

The tape could have been a problem if its very tacky, i lot of people love tamiya tape but i think the adhesive is to thick myself and personally am not a big fan of it,ive started using mr hobby low adhesive tape as well as there standard tape, but sticking and pulling it off the back of your hand a few times will remove some of the tackiness,i also use some automotive masking tape which is very low tack and has a very thin adhesive layer, not halfords or b@q stuff.

I'll be honest, I was going to buy some masking tape but found an old roll of white masking tape I had here, but it's just normal every day masking tape.