Some where on the Eastern Front 1942 /43 1/35 scale

[Allen Dewire]

You're right about the offset links John. I should have checked mine first before posting. Looks like it's back to lots of stuff under the T-34 pushing the tracks up between the road wheels...…………..

[scottie3158]

John,
The tracks look very good, your right the metal tracks add that certain extra.

[Mini Me]

Looks the Dog's berries! If you preload them on top of a heap of debris or whatever, I think the slack will be just about right, depending on how much deflection there is in the road wheels. You might try a couple different mock ups and see if it works for you JR. They definitely look "Berlin" saggy. Cheers, Rick H.

[Guest]

You're right about the offset links John. I should have checked mine first before posting. Looks like it's back to lots of stuff under the T-34 pushing the tracks up between the road wheels...…………..

Bit of a bummer really that Dude 1, one link less and it would have been ok.

John,
The tracks look very good, your right the metal tracks add that certain extra.

Cheers Paul, thinking about getting some of that track solution.

Looks the Dog's berries! If you preload them on top of a heap of debris or whatever, I think the slack will be just about right, depending on how much deflection there is in the road wheels. You might try a couple different mock ups and see if it works for you JR. They definitely look "Berlin" saggy. Cheers, Rick H.

Thanks Rick, def right with some trials when the diorama base starts. Need to find some photos of a T34 in that position.


This afternoon I mounted the heads and did a wet pallet of white and grey primer. The grey going under the ridge of the helmet. Tracks have been primed in Mr Surfacer , but now need to think about this treatment you can give to darken them .
Anyone tried it please comment .

John.

[SimonT]

Hi John

it looks like you have fixed the road wheels / axles in the flat road position rather than up/down as the weight transfers when going over obstacles - watch the vid below to see the wheel movement when running on uneven ground

[Guest]

Hi John

it looks like you have fixed the road wheels / axles in the flat road position rather than up/down as the weight transfers when going over obstacles - watch the vid below to see the wheel movement when running on uneven ground

Hi Simon , thanks for that, i've looked again at the destructions and can't see how I could have altered it.


Sorry its on it side, took it in the normal position :thinking:

Suppose I could have cut one of those pins off and moved the wheel up, but not being a daring sort It never crossed my mind. :smiling3:


Earlier today I started the base for the diorama, taking one of the Wiko picture frames I infilled the center and then glued another piece of KAPA line foam board on .



Left it outside under the carport canopy to dry.

Also managed to get some paint on the 3 figures, now I want these to look cold, so no tanned faces, just a look of chilled to the bone.





:smiling:


Although the helmets and scarf have been painted in white it looks very grey still.

Jeans are on hire c/w legs from Simon.

Busy sorting out some plastic strip for the factory frame work !

Thanks for looking in .
John.

[Guest]

Who a happy chappie. Why me if course, and why? Its Diorama time.:smiling2::smiling2::smiling2::nerd:

Starting with a scale drawing of the side of the factory



I glued two pieces of 5 mm foam board back to back. Leaving the paper on so just used PVA. Left this overnight under some weights. It will be placed diagonally from the upper right to the lower left.

The wall will consist of a brick section . with upright in between some lights,as in the drawing. Have had to send off for some more right angle plastic strip and some h section for the main support.

The lights will be thus.



The other way up, must sort out why the pohtos go side ways on .



Later when this section has fully dried I will start to add the small glazing bars. It will have internal roofing struts with a section of corrugated sheeting, gutters etc, so loads to do plus finish the T34. Have some burnishing fluid on it way. Paint the gun and crew
Thanks for following , comments always welcome.

John.

[Guest]

All looking good John :smiling3:.

[scottie3158]

John,
Chair pulled up.

[BigGreg]

as usual you never cease to amaze... wonderful work... can't wait to see the factory

[Allen Dewire]

Dude 2,

Done lost your mind again, huh!!!...……...Looks a great start!!!

[Guest]

All looking good John :smiling3:.

Thanks Ralph.

John,
Chair pulled up.

Welcome Paul, make your self comfortable it may take a while.

as usual you never cease to amaze... wonderful work... can't wait to see the factory

Thanks Greg.
Not going to be very big, and side ways on, It will be interesting to see how I hold up the root sections. I haven't a clue yet.:flushed::upside::nerd:.

Dude 2,

Done lost your mind again, huh!!!...……...Looks a great start!!!

Dude 1, we start these things off and they grow, gone is the heap of debris to drive up, not fat better a wall to go through !!.

Tried the new glue , as the photos showed, well it doesn't work well at all on plastic strip, now it could be that not all the ends are square. I've put a new blade in the " chopper " as it tends to cut slightly at an angle on thicker sections. Got to see if it's the way I push down the handle, maybe it twists, but at the price it was I hope not .
More tomorrow.
Thanks for commenting.
John .

[Neil Merryweather]

I've put a new blade in the " chopper " as it tends to cut slightly at an angle on thicker sections. Got to see if it's the way I push down the handle, maybe it twists, but at the price it was I hope not .
More tomorrow.
Thanks for commenting.
John .

John, I've used the chopper at work for years. With thick square section try only cutting half way (or less) through and rotating the plastic so you cut it 4 times. That way at least all the cut lines will be in the same place on each face. You might get a slight pyramid but its easier to trim. On thick material the chopper blade will always want to bend off in one direction or another. You will also find that with the stress of cutting thicker material in one go it's easy to push the stop out of place,so if you're making multiple pieces there is a risk of them being different sizes!
good luck
N

[Guest]

John, I've used the chopper at work for years. With thick square section try only cutting half way (or less) through and rotating the plastic so you cut it 4 times. That way at least all the cut lines will be in the same place on each face. You might get a slight pyramid but its easier to trim. On thick material the chopper blade will always want to bend off in one direction or another. You will also find that with the stress of cutting thicker material in one go it's easy to push the stop out of place,so if you're making multiple pieces there is a risk of them being different sizes!
good luck
N

Thanks Neil,good idea, can I ask what you glue the strip with, I normally have used Tamiya Extra Thin , but this time I used my new Deluxe version.
Thanks John .

[Neil Merryweather]

Thanks Neil,good idea, can I ask what you glue the strip with, I normally have used Tamiya Extra Thin , but this time I used my new Deluxe version.
Thanks John .

I use dichloromethane, which is just the generic name, and would probably be the same as Tamiya Extra thin. I can't imagine how they would make it deluxe,though......