Comet-ed

[Andy T]

Sorted out the main stowage for tank #2.

It's a bit shiney right now as I'm waiting on a delivery of satin varnish, and I realise it's all quite "samey" too but it's military issue, not Bennaton lol



And I've finally tackled the tracks. They'll be getting more work once the tanks are fully built up but at least I know there's something on the areas I'll not be able to reach later.



They did fall apart in a couple of places during the process so I hope they still fit! :surprised:

Next I need to man up and start throwing some mud effects at the lower hull and running gear so that I can finish construction.

[Guest]

Would you like a few photos of what light mud spattering looks like on a real Comet, for inspiration?

[Andy T]

If you have some it would be greatly appreciated Jakko (even if I can't reproduce the effect :smiling5: )

I've found some pictures but know you are a master at finding good references.

[Guest]

These references were easy enough to find — I happened to be in the right place at the right time:

[ATTACH]484002[/ATTACH][ATTACH]484004[/ATTACH][ATTACH]484003[/ATTACH][ATTACH]484005[/ATTACH]

These were taken on 10 September 2002 at Bovington, where they had just done some demos with a few tanks including this Comet. Afterward it was parked next to the arena for people to examine and clamber all over and in (trust me when I say those driver’s hatches are awkward to get in and out of even when you’re skinny and wearing just jeans, a T-shirt and a summer jacket — I wouldn’t want to do that with tank overalls and winter clothes on) and I thought I’d take some photos of the mud for reference.

[Andy T]

Brilliant Jakko, they should be very helpful, thanks.

[Guest]

You’re welcome I only took these four photos else I’d post more …

[tr1ckey66]

Just caught up with this project Andy. Some wonderful stuff going on here and I’m really looking forward to the progress and the eventual reveal.
Excellent stuff :thumb2:
Paul

[Andy T]

Thanks Paul, much appreciated.

You’re welcome :smiling3: I only took these four photos else I’d post more …

Even those four have highlighted a few things for me to bear in mind.

Of course artistic license will be in full effect but at least if I know what it should look like, I can try to stay close to that.

[Guest]

Good to see they will be useful for inspiration I wouldn’t want to try and replicate all those little mud spatters on the wheels myself, I know that … but the photos are good for showing that mud doesn’t immediately get into the deeper areas of wheels, but starts with the outer parts. Of course, spend more time driving through mud and the whole wheels will be covered. IMHO they also show that you’re really better off not even painting the hull sides with the vehicle colour — this tank had been doing no more than maybe 15 minutes to half an hour in somewhat muddy ground, and nothing of the base colour remains visible.

[Andy T]

Agreed. I was going to pin wash etc around the lower hull but after seeing those pictures I've just slapped mud over the base colour.

I also noticed the absence of polished metal parts on the tracks and drive sprockets that many modellers add.

I'm sure different vehicles and driving conditions would have produced different results but at least I know it won't be "wrong" if I don't make too much of an effort in that regard.

[Guest]

Hi mate ,been absent for a couple of days
Most impressive work , as usual .

[Tim Marlow]

Agreed. I was going to pin wash etc around the lower hull but after seeing those pictures I've just slapped mud over the base colour.

I also noticed the absence of polished metal parts on the tracks and drive sprockets that many modellers add.

I'm sure different vehicles and driving conditions would have produced different results but at least I know it won't be "wrong" if I don't make too much of an effort in that regard.

Remember with mud that old mud is lighter than new mud (and underneath it) Andy…….there are quite a few shades there to play with.
As to the polished parts, remember that’s a museum example that probably only does a mile or two a year, and it’s covered in mud . A harder worked combat veteran would exhibit quite a lot more wear on the tracks and wheels than this one, but all vehicles wear differently so good references like this are always useful.
I‘d say that if you went for this level of mud coverage you’d be spot on though

[Andy T]

Thanks John, good to see you sir.

Yes Tim, thanks. I got a lighter textured layer down on everything last night and should be able to start adding a few darker shades tonight in places where it could be thicker or wetter.

[Guest]

I also noticed the absence of polished metal parts on the tracks and drive sprockets that many modellers add.

I think the reason for that here is it’s a vehicle that’s stationary in a museum(’s depot) most of the time, with a thin layer of dried mud over everything. If it had been driving around in dry, sandy soil or over paved surfaces for even a few hours, the raised areas of the track would probably be shiny. Tracks are usually rather high-quality steel, and preserved examples are often misleading: manganese steel turns a deep brown colour when rusty, for example, but this takes a long time — like, oh, standing in a museum for a couple of decades Those same tracks that look brown on a museum tank would probably have had a dull steel colour for the entire time the tank was in use in the war, with polished areas where they hit the ground.

Edit: I just remembered I even have photos that sort of illustrate this, though not with tank tracks.

[ATTACH]484077[/ATTACH][ATTACH]484078[/ATTACH]

Though not the best photos, mainly due to stuff obscuring the first one, compare these two tracks. Both are Caterpillar D6 bulldozers of about the same vintage (1943 for the one on the right, not sure for the other), but the track in the first photo is fairly rusted while that in the second is not, or only barely — most of the discolouration on them is caked-on dirt. Notably, in the first the tops of the ridges on the track plates that the vehicle actually rides on, is rusted, while it isn’t in the second. (The track in the first photo has had plastic blocks bolted on so it won’t kill roads, but that was done recently.)

The reason the second one isn’t rusted, is because this is military track, while the first is civilian. The track for military Caterpillar tractors was made of higher-quality steel, which still only barely rusts despite being 80 years old, while civilian track does.

[Andy T]

Cheers Jakko, interesting stuff.

I really must learn to be more careful what I say as everything gets dissected in this place. I should have learned my lesson from last time I was here! :smiling5: