No probs mate, just wondered because you galloped away at the start……
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Looks like I've now got time to have another go at these. I'll next paint four of these chaps:
I've been pondering colour schemes. I don't want to paint this whole unit in combat greens. This is not camouflage they're wearing. A key attribute of the Followers of Bone is the ability to intimidate and panic their opponents - they WANT to be seen!
So that's my excuse for painting the other two-thirds of this unit in bright colours. I think these guys are going to be in shades of - blue? Maybe.
I've also been working on a character sculpt. This is Ygritte (Kissed by Fire). Unlike the paint names, I love these character's names!
It's a great sculpt, but she was moulded with her left foot on a blobby plastic 'rock'. She was asking to be freed of this (just clipped it off with sprue pliers and tidied up with a blade), drilled and mounted on wire into a suitably heroic base.
This is scraps of Scots pine bark glued up to create a rising platform for her. Again used the mix of CA on one part and PVA on the other - works really well. The bark is very flaky and unstable, so after gluing it all together it was still quite weak and wobbly. So I bolstered it with Milliput, very quickly sculpted into something (very!) roughly similar to the bark.
The figure itself is lovely, with eyes, lips, even nostrils properly sculpted. I love the left hand, with index finger braced against the arrowhead.
Now waiting for the postie to deliver some curved blades so I can address those mould lines!Comment
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Paul
Yet again a big thank you for all the information. Very helpful indeed.
Love the fake shadow idea on particular.
ATB
AndrewComment
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Thanks Andrew.
I've not really experimented with the fake shadow thing that much, but I should. I reckon you could possibly exaggerate it even more than I've done with those mammoths.
And I could see it making a big difference to, say, a 1/32nd scale artillery piece - anchoring it to its base more effectively.Comment
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The worst that can happen is that I have to repaint the base…….the figure will be untouched.Comment
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I've just started watching him, very interesting stuff.
Re. the inexhaustible paint charge - he mentions in one video (Understanding Brush Control) that he's using a Raphael 8404 No.3 - that's a big brush.
I've been amazed at how much more paint my new No.2 holds - I reckon the even bigger No.3 brush is the secret to those endless shots of him perfecting a miniature on one paint charge.Comment
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That’s a big and expensive brush! Don’t think I’ve seen that one, may have to look for it. You could well be right though, it might be how he can paint for so long. I use a size one, but may one day move up a bit.….. I also don’t know how he picks up so much paint from his wet palette in one hit, by the way……I think he’s a great communicator and I do like the way he goes through all the paint ranges showing pluses and minuses without favour.Comment
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This is where I'm at now. It needs considerable tinkering yet, but it's getting there.
Having wondered whether I'd gone too far with the mauve skin first time around, I've now gone considerably further with it!
The little hat with that terrible yellow plume has got to go. I'm thinking of painting it all ice blue.
And I'm thinking that the third set of four (in this twelve-strong troupe) had better be painted in shades of yellow - I've clearly got some learning to do with that particular colour!Comment
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Coming on well isn’t he. Know what you mean about the yellow plume….blue and mauve work, but the yellow plume clashes a bit. Not sure about ice blue though, it’s a cool colour and the rest is quite warm in tone? A blue toned red might work?
Yellow is fun. I’ve been a bit hit and miss with it myself. The issue is that yellow is transparent so doesn’t cover well. Coming up from a sienna type brown to an almost white highlight can work, well it has for me in the past……I usually overpaint the lot with yellow ink to give more vibrancy to the final colour. Apparently painting the object like flesh, then painting over with yellow can work as well.
I find Vallejo yellow ink can give a good intense colour, but the undercoat has to be “right”. Be very careful about painting yellow over black and blue. The top coat goes green very quickly. In the same way, any obvious red in the undercoat turns the top coat orange….Comment
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Pale blue with orange banding. An improvement over the yellow and brown, but that bar was very low. The orange has got to go.
I could go for metal banding, of course. I think I'm going to get some of the Vallejo Metal Colors. I've got some of their Game Air metallics, but the Metal Color seems even better. ScaleModelShop stocks of this are patchy - and I'm not sure what colours to get.
Oh, and I've got a Molotow chrome pen, but never thought to use it on miniatures - I'll have to give that a try.Comment
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Not sure on the blue myself. It is too similar to the fur cloak I think….doesn’t really ”pop”..
The Metal colours are fantastic. First metallics I’ve had that paint like, well, paint….. Most useful I think are Gunmetal, Steel, and silver….they make a good triad up to steel highlights. I also have Burnt iron and Magnesium to sometimes vary the steel colour. Copper is not that great, but that might just be me. Not tried the Gold, can’t find any :sad: They don’t do a brass or bronze unfortunately. Best gold/brass/Bronze colours I’ve found are from Darkstar metallics, but they are gel paint not like the Metal colours.
All of them work best over a dark base….Gold over dark red is a good combination, as is steel over Indigo or Payne’s grey.Comment
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How do you protect your metallics, Tim? I matt varnished Game Air silver and, predictably, it goes grey. Vallejo do a gloss Metal Varnish - I might try that. Can I matt varnish the whole mini, then brush the gloss varnish onto the metalwork - would that work?Comment
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