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Well, the emails from work are not forthcoming, so Wee Jimmy Cameron is going to get some attention.
Perhaps with musical accompaniment. Oh yes, I think so:
Thanks. Applying the basic (base) colours currently; not much to show, but will post pics when that part is done.
Then the tartan awaits (oh... my ... god...)
Hi Dave
Nice work so far, I’m angling to painting some of these in 28mm in the future, and have done some prereading....therefore.....
You might find these links helpful.....
Painting Tartan Patterns – PRELUDE If painting designs on your figures makes you nervous, taking on a tartan might seem like a nearly impossible task. Well, the truth is, if you can paint (mostly) straight lines then you can paint a tartan. In this tutorial I’ll breakdown the pattern and show you how to build it back up, one simple step at a time. The only other trick is trying to keep those lines uniformly spaced and of uniform thickness. The more uniform the lines are, the better the tartan will look, so I’ll be sharing some tips to help with that as well. I’m going to begin with a bit of historical background and some tips on coming up with the tartan design. Tartans can look great on both historical and fantasy figures. So if the background info sounds too boring and you just want to paint trollbloods, feel free to jump to the following section where I’ll get to the actual painting. A BIT OF BACKGROUND Tartan is a pattern that is closely associated with Scotland. The pattern is made by weaving alternating bands of colour at right angles to each other. These days we associate specific colours and patterns to specific Scottish clans. However, that association came about in the middle of the nineteenth century. Prior to that the designs were related to the weaver making them and the natural dyes available in the area. As a result patterns would be associated more with a region or district rather than a specific clan. The shades of the colours in the tartan come in three different variations: modern, ancient, and muted. Modern tartans are coloured using chemical dyes. These produce strong shades and darker shades for the tartan. Ancient shades produce a lighter coloured tartan and represent the colours that would result from ageing over time. Meanwhile muted refers to shades between modern and ancient. However these shades are said to be the closest match to the shades attained by the natural dyes used before the mid-19th century. Whether you plan to paint a historical piece or not, browsing a collection of historical patterns can help you come up with the colours and pattern for your project. A good resource is: http://www.house-of-tartan.scotland.net/house/tfinder.htm STEP 1: BREAKDOWNING DOWN THE PATTERN At first glance, tartans look like a complex design. In actuality they are just a series of horizontal and vertical lines. If we treat it as such and take it one set of lines at a time, we can recreate that complexity without getting overwhelmed. So we begin by looking at the pattern we’ve selected and breaking it down into the following parts: Background Colour – In my case, orange. Main (Thickest) Horizontal Line – In my example, brown. Main (Thickest) Vertical Line – Again, brown. Secondary (Next Thickest) Horizontal Line – For my example this is the thin brown line on either side of the thick one. Secondary (Next Thickest) Vertical Line – Same as the horizontal case. Tertiary (Next Thickest) Horizontal Line – Here it’s the thin white line. Tertiary (Next Thickest) Vertical Line – Here it’s the yellow line. And so on until you run out of lines… If you pick a different tartan style, the colours and number of lines might change. But, all you’ve got to do is identify the lines and divide them from most significant (thickest) to least (thinnest). STEP 2: LAY DOWN THE BACKGROUND COLOR Probably the easiest step… all you’ve got to do is paint the solid background colour on the mini. We’ll be building up a number of layers on top of this, so best to keep the application as thin and smooth as possible. Applying overly thick paint here can make your work more difficult in the later stages, so take some extra care as you go. At this point you’ve got a decision to make… do you shade and highlight or wait until later? It’s personal preference. You’ll want to give each set of lines some highlighting and shading. I find it easier to shade as I go, that way I’m not overwhelmed at the end. In this case, I decided to wait until I’d done the first set of horizontal and vertical lines and then shade both those and the background at the same time. It’s up to you to decide how you want to tackle that and what is the easiest for your style. STEP 3 – PART 1: PAINT THE MAIN HORIZONTAL AND VERTICAL LINES First, what colour should you use? The colour of any region should be a 50/50 mix of the colour for the horizontal yarns and the vertical yarns. In this case, one family of yarns is dark brown and the other family is orange, so I mix the orange and brown to create the shade for these lines. Okay, on to laying down the lines. This is the hardest step. Once you’ve got these lines down, you can use them as guides for the rest of the project. I suggest starting work on just the horizontal or just the vertical lines to start. For a kilt like the one I’m working on, the bottom edge forms a nice reference so I’d begin with the horizontal lines. Yes, the bottom is tattered, but I’d expect the line to be a roughly the same height all the way around. Alternatively I could use the belt as my reference and work my way down. In this case, I began at the bottom and painted the lines all the way around and keeping the height above the ground as constant as I could. I then moved up to the next line and painted it around the figure (keeping the spacing between the two lines consistent as I went). To help with the spacing you can grab a ruler or place marks on a scrap of paper. Check your work as you go and make adjustments as needed. For this piece I had just one more
Right: 40 mins to get some more paint slapped on, before school pick-up.
Being on Light Duties has its advantages (not least as I went swimming at lunchtime - physiotherapy, you understand)
Thanks.
Got a few more areas covered this afternoon. And realised the water bottle straps should be Blanco'd instead of tan leather.
Too late!
Stuff it anyway.
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