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Superglue, how do you get on with it?

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  • BarryW
    SMF Supporters
    • Jul 2011
    • 6053

    #1

    Superglue, how do you get on with it?

    I have tried many types of superglue but it has never met expectation. All that pe needing to be glued onto the Avenger was a real problem, getting it into the exact place and then holding on keeping the piece in place while the glue takes hold. But, only too often the glue did not grip or at least not in the advertised time only too often falling right off again. I tried all different types of superglue, different viscocity, different makes etc etc and I have never been satisfied. I have tried putting less onto the part, more on the part etc etc. I also tried accellerator and that does not seem to work as advertised either....

    Until last night.

    I have some pe seatbelts to glue to the Spitfire seat and I tried the new superglue supplied by John, the Expo brand, two types in his shop (bought both), 1-3 second drying time is the one I used placing a small dap at the top of the shoulder belts and slowly offered it up to the back of the seat and, it gripped immediately and thankfully was in just the right place. I needed to get the belts to hang properly with another small dab lower down and again it gripped immediately. Same story for the lap belts.

    I was amazed, it was so easy. Maybe with this ca glue that really is superglue, I might actual stop hating the use of pe...

    I recommend it....
  • Ian M
    Administrator
    • Dec 2008
    • 18288
    • Ian
    • Falster, Denmark

    #2
    Good for You Barry- and welcome to the fun world of PE pinging all over the place.

    I found the "Glupers" that John also sells a nice one to have in the took box. its like a quill pen for glue!

    Happy that you finally got to grips with a glue that works for you.

    So.. do we get to see the Vb soon? It's not everyday you build something so 'small'.

    Ian M
    Group builds

    Bismarck

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    • Guest

      #3
      Yes I had the same problem Barry until I bought POWER DROP in John's shop. This includes thin medium and thick. Plus the same for use with transparencies.

      John also does plastic extenders which fit over the spout . They have a long thin spout. Allows small controlled amounts to be applied. Also no need to keep taking tops on and off. Just leave them on and I do not bother about tops. If the top 1 or 2 m. get blocked just cut off that bit and away you go.

      Laurie

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      • BarryW
        SMF Supporters
        • Jul 2011
        • 6053

        #4
        Ian - I have a looper and it works well.

        Laurie - it was PowerDrop (with the looper) that I was using on the Avenger that gave me so many problems!!!!!

        Ian - yes indeed, I will be starting the paint job next week. A bit of work to do first though but I will certainly post it up. A nice little kit going together faultlessly.

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        • Guest

          #5
          These are the nozzles I mentioned Barry on the left. Not the ame as mine but the same principle.

          Only a minute drop is squashed out and being minute it goes off in a flash. Keep them on the bottle no cap needed. Just cut the end if blocked.

          The other are these applicators in different sizes these are the smallest. They can be used as CA applicators or as brushes.

          [ATTACH]85897.IPB[/ATTACH]

          [ATTACH]85898.IPB[/ATTACH]


          Laurie



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          • Guest

            #6
            Got the left and right mixed up there.

            Laurie

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            • Guest

              #7
              I have given up on pe it is simply too small for my eyes, my first experience with it was on academys titanic, I made the mistake of reading build logs before I started it and read the seat that come with the kit are not to scale so bought the right scale, God they are tiny and you have to bend them to shape as well(you have to remember I had never even heard of pe before) so I wasted nearly 100 quid on a kit when I could have bought the standard kit for 40 quid ( as that is how I will build it now) so I take my hat off,envy you for using it well done. As for the glue I agree it won't stick in the right place but as soon you've got the part in the wrong place it sticks like it has never stuck before.

              Comment

              • Guest

                #8
                Yes you are right Ken sticks every where but the designated one.

                Must admit that I got a bit annoyed with the PE I bought for the Merlin. Found that 30% was not better than the plastic moulded part.

                But also found that the other pieces did give a more 3 dimensional and realistic touch. Not sure if this added detail of the PE will be appreciated.

                Laurie

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                • Dave W
                  • Jan 2011
                  • 4713

                  #9
                  I started using PE a couple of years ago and have really struggled with The stuff. I've tried several good quality brands of superglue and not had much luck.I even bought some of that 'Roket' stuff ,but didn't find it any better.Then I bought a cheap brand from B&Q (Diall) and it works great.For pre painted seat belts I use Gator glue or Microscale crystal clear as its easy to clean up any excess.

                  Comment

                  • Guest

                    #10
                    I as a rule won't spend the money on PE parts as I feel that once painted they don't add any more detail than what is already on the kit, and I hate using Super glue which in my opinion is not so super. It frustrates me no end that it never seems to grip the parts quickly enough and when it does the part has managed to move, I only use it now when I really need too.

                    scott

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                    • BarryW
                      SMF Supporters
                      • Jul 2011
                      • 6053

                      #11
                      I could not agree more with Scott but these days so many kits come with pe as standard. Much of it you can leave off as you will not notice it, but some is an essential pat of the build such as on the Avenger. I left out most of the cockpit pe but there was no avoiding the strips along the inner/outer wing join and in a few other places.

                      The one area for which I have bought aftermarket pe for has been seatbelts. They though can still be a problem. I have just bought dome of the 'fabric' seatbelts to try out on the Tammy Spit VIII and Airfix Typhoon. OK there are some pe parts in the, buckles and such like, but provided they can be threaded OK I think they can be made to hang more naturally than the wholly pe versions and stick in place better. I will post my experiences when I try them.

                      Comment

                      • Guest

                        #12
                        Most no all my work is 1/48. I do not bother with PE seat belts form now on. On the Merlin Helicopter where there are approx 20 seat belts in the hold area. Awful job with PE. Also found that PE seat belts look out of scale. Did a recce. on real belts and got the correct size which in the Merlin case showed the PE to wide.

                        For the pilots I used two layers of Tamiya type tape Left the u/s sticky. Fitting is easy and also allows the seat belt to be fixed to the pilot and seat in a realistic manner. 1/32 scale it may not work so well as more detail is needed. Sticking ha ha with this in future.

                        Laurie

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