build/painting order

[BBdave]

I am about to take on my first "proper" build a 1:35 Sherman so what order do i progress? build then paint or paint on the spru then build. Or Do i just paint what i can the bits that will be hard to reach then build.

I will be brush painting enamels i have primer and top coats do i thin these or direct from the tin?

I know these are basic questions sorry.

Dave

[Guest]

I can't speak for everyone else but I paint on the sprue and when built, sort of a combo of the two. For instance I would paint the wheels of the tank. Before putting them on as itvwould be difficult after attached (I have only built 5 tanks) so no expert by any means but I think this method works for any type of model, read through instructions and if it would be difficult to paint once attached paint it first. That's my method but I am sure others more into tanks will probably tell you otherwise.

[PaulTRose]

for me id prime on the sprues, build as much as possible....leave off stuff like tracks and tools which can be painted seperatly.....paint the tank, then add tools/tracks

how far are you going with this?....washes? weathering? mud/dust?

[eddiesolo]

First off is a good warm water and soap wash, get it all nice and clean. Once dry I then prime on the sprue, makes life easier. I assemble various parts and then spray paint leaving off items like wheels, tracks etc so I can paint better.

Si

[BBdave]

That makes sense do I thin the primer I'm aware I need to avoid adding to much paint.

Dave

[Guest]

Interesting question Dave. Especially as I will be launching into my first armour vehicle shortly. Although the question relates to all types of model really.

All have our own ways and mine is no exception. So i am not trying to tread on any ones toes here. As all things read take what you want. Also add that each model has its own problems and way of going about things. That is an early decision as to how to achieve your aims relative to the way you work.

I always construct first. There is normally filling and sanding of joined bits which becomes second.. I only prime when I am relatively sure I have all the fitting finished and the filling is a good as possible.

I do not wash the sprue. With handling and fitting filling sanding the plastic is covered with a load of rubbish. After completing fitting filling sanding etc I then wet and dry the finished pieces sections etc. This gives a near perfect clean surface with a bite for the primer.

I go for a mist primer to begin which explores the surfaces and throws up those bits which need more attention filling sanding etc. then a full primer coat.

The bits on paint I leave to others as I am a dedicated Acrylic.

Laurie

PS a past member here gave me a great tip. Bird grit in a container. Small bits are near impossible to prepare and sand. Bung them in a container with the bird grit (obtainable from all good bird grit establishments). Then rattle and roll for a minute. Cleans the plastic and gives a good matt finish for primer or as they are small top coat finish. Naturally wash the pieces after a "gritcolin" episode (Colin being the prof. on bird gritting).

.

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[BBdave]

I have decided on the armour basically because I have been round a few so know that basically everything was green apart from tyres tracks etc so I can concentrate on brush technique rather than masking etc. then weathering.

Dave

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Does everyone wash there sprues? I have never done this and never had any reactions whether the kit be a cheap one or an expensive make.

When I started out I followed the painting guides as per instructions, now though if I cant see it I don't paint it, am I alone in this?

I love the actual build of any model but the worst part is the decals as I always worry about how they will go on

Adrian

[Guest]

I wash the sprues to eliminate any mould release agent that might be present. Rinsing well is vital as soapy residue is just as bad for paint adhesion.

I then build the tank in it's entirety. Small parts such as tools, hatches &

equipment I leave off until later. These are painted separately.

I normally paint & weather the wheels & tracks first and mask them but thats because I use an airbrush.

There's very little need for filling & sanding with armour. They're nothing like aircraft kits.

I prime the model after construction to check for any glue prints & for a decent

surface for the paint.

In your case Dave, an overall colour of Olive Drab can be brushed on in 3 thin coats. The consistently of the paint is a matter of personal choice, but you want the paint to 'flow' from the brush.

Once the paint is done, gloss coat it & apply the decals. Add gloss over the decals & once fully dry apply as many pin washes as you want to bring out the detail. These washes can be various colours or shades to add tonal variation.

Add the painted tools, hatches & equipment. Finish with some final weathering such as mud or dust effects and you're done.

The link is to a painting thread of mine a few years ago. Although I use an airbrush, some of the steps might be of interest to you.

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/community/threads/painting-a-t-34-85.8621/

[BBdave]

Ok that sounds good. what glue is used to attach bits after painting i guess the paint can pickle?

Dave

[Guest]

Does everyone wash there sprues? I have never done this and never had any reactions whether the kit be a cheap one or an expensive make.When I started out I followed the painting guides as per instructions, now though if I cant see it I don't paint it, am I alone in this?

I love the actual build of any model but the worst part is the decals as I always worry about how they will go on

Adrian

I washed the first two or three models Adrian but the not after that. Complete waste of time. Plus with lanolin and such like in dish washer liquid to keep the hands jolly nice it is going to reverse what was started to achieve. But as said above after filling sanding then wet and drying there is no point as any cleaning will have been virtually achieved and very thoroughly after wet and drying. Got to say in my book wet and drying is the most important of the lot. provides a nice clean surface with a good stickability for the primer.

Forgot to mention in the piece above. Before painting wipe with IPA with a lint free cloth. B & Q do wipe rags with IPA. Then I gently wipe with a car body tack rag and just before airbrushing with an H & S high velocity airbrush (about 325 and worth it) chase any hairs etc remaining. Hopefully. This I have found all though fastidious does give a first class hairless finish . Just add that do not airbrush after vacuum cleaning.Also an added thing airbrush or hand brush spray the air with a plant water spray which settles all dust just before painting. Works wonders.

Seems all to complicated. But which is best time used and a good finish or a hairy paint job.

laurie

[Guest]

Almost always the parts are attached to the sprues at a point that would be visible on the model so if you paint on the sprue then you will need to touch up afterwards and that is never 100% perfect. If you paint when assembled there will always be 'shadows', or bits you can't get to.

I always remove from the sprue then clean up and then hold the part again in a spot that is not visible. For instance a motorcycle tank I would sharpen a piece of sprue and glue it inside the tank so I have a handle for painting and holding in a vice when it is drying. When it is painted simply snap the piece of sprue off. Tank wheels for instance I would remove, clean up and then put a stick through the centre such as a cocktail stick etc. again you have a handle for painting.

You have to think your processes through and work out how you are going to achieve the result you are after. For the tank I would build the hull without the wheels, paint it, then paint the cleaned up wheels on the cocktail sticks before finally attaching the wheels.

This really is what modelling is all about, thinking through how best to paint everything to give you the neatest finished job you can achieve.

[Guest]

Ok that sounds good. what glue is used to attach bits after painting i guess the paint can pickle?Dave

I use PVA glue Dave, a dab on the part (a spade for instance) ,leave to go tacky for 5 minutes & then put it on the model. It dries clear so there's no unsightly reaction with the paint.

[PaulTRose]

i use ca almost exclusivly......use it for everything cept 'glass'...pva for that

i ALWAYS wash parts.........but only in warm water, no detergent, use an old toothbrush to gently scrub and rinse well, let them air dry for at least 24 hours

i have done a few kits where you can feel the mould release agent on the surface, and i remember one that gave me all sorts of paint problems cos i forgot to wash it, that i put down to the release agent

i work in plastic injection and i know the problems we have at work with this sort of thing (im a QA Tech in the automotive industry)

[BBdave]

Thanks all usefull stuff, i built a model rail building once and the paint would just bead on it i had to degrease it before i could paint it.

Dave