HELP LIQUID POLY ON CANOPY

[Vaughan]

Hi simple mistake but I've managed to deposit some liquid poly on my nearly completed BF109G canopy. I would be grateful for any tips on how to remove it without damaging the canopy.

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[Ian M]

Ouch thats bugger.

I'm a bit worried that that is a write off. You might be able to polish it down but the framing detail is going to make that tricky.

If it was me I would get onto Revell and as them if they can provide a replacement. Simply say you had an accident and I am sure they will send one. While you wait for that you can try polishing it out. or drill a hole in the middle and say its a bullet hole! lol

Sorry but in the photo it looks like it has eaten well into the plastic.

Ian M

[Vaughan]

I think your right there Ian maybe it's beyond repair. The only trouble with Revell is that they take so long to send a replacement (mind you this build has been going on since April so a few weeks isn't going to make much difference) do you have an address for Revell? In the mean time I will have a go at polishing it out.

[Ian M]

Seeing how you asked so nicely:

http://www.revell.de/en/service/service-form/model-building.html

It is in English by the way

Ian M

[Guest]

I used a spot of oil paint thinner to clear away a glue bomb once. Maybe dip 'Q-tip/cotton bud' into some thinner, and gently polish the spot until you see some effect?

[stona]

The problem is that the glue has dissolved the plastic of the clear part. It won't have gone all the way through or you would have a hole. It is theoretically possible to sand and polish the blemish out, but how much material will be left? It may not be practically possible.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

If you carefully polish with ever finer grits of wet and dry you should get it to a dull blemish which may then hopefully dissappear with a few coats of either Johnson's Kleer or an acrylic clear cote.

It all depends on how deep the etching is but I'm also sure that whatever you do will improve it. If you cannot get a realy fine wet and dry go to car body repair suppliers. I use RhinoWet at 2000 grit which should be good enough for this. If you cannot get hold of any send me a PM and I will post you a sheet, I have more than enough for this lifetime!

I certainly don't think it is scrap as yet, I think there is still hope but, as Steve says, it all depnds on how much material you have left.

[Ian M]

It looks to me like it would be easier to cut the whole of the damaged panel out and replace it with a piece of clear plastic.

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Is it a 1:48th scale, I think I have a Tamiya canopy spare in a drawer somewhere if its any good to you?

Adrian

[Vaughan]

Thanks for the info Guys on repairs but I think I've cracked it. Ha ha. I worked on the area with a very fine grade sanding stick and have managed to remove the blemish followed by some serious polishing. It's not perfect but I can live with it. Finally a dip in some clear and it seems to have done the trick. The only thing left to do is touch up and matt down the canopy frame which will be a bit of a pain but at least I don't have to order a spare part.

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[flyjoe180]

Nice recovery Vaughan, it looks good from here.

[yak face]

Nice rescue Vaughan , its like new . cheers tony

[Peej]

From where I am sat you would have never known. Well done on a good job!

[Guest]

Beautiful job, just goes to show you should never give up!

[Ian M]

Great save V. I would never have thought it possible to get that mark out.

Just one question.

In the first photo there is a back plate, in the last one its not there...I hope that was the intention.

Ian M