Originally posted by \
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I'm sure most of us have done this once or twice, lesson learnt. So to attempt a rescue, as Steve has said, cut the decal. A new blade will help, cut the decal and make it conform, then touch up with paint. -
Steve suggested in this particular case as I did, Colin, chuck the decal altogether and paint it on.
LaurieComment
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OK, I'm calm now, long build due to errors I managed to get around which I was happy with but it was pretty late when this popped up and it was a toys out of the pram moment! From the paint scheme it's a pretty simple line, there are separate decals for the landing gear and pointy bit on the underside, so it's only the wing that it's not working for due to the fairings. According to the destructions the lines are simple enough, should be able to mask that.
I notice another chap seems to have had the same and decided not to bother with the fairings until the decals were on. Genius!!
Glad I've helped others learn from my mistake, let's hope that I can fix it and that the white paint I have remotely matches the white of the decals!Comment
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Another option although probably just as fiddly is to cut the decal into sections and touch it up afterwards with paint. The problem is of course your white will most probably not match the white of the decal. Personally I would be masking and painting the stripes myself. Lots of lessons learnt here. And some interesting perspectives from people.Comment
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Thanks for everyone's suggestions, I've gone for the easy option, do it again and leave the fairings off until the decals are down!
This is of course a photo for prosperity as my knife utterly destroys the decal trying to re-open the hole for the middle fairing!!!
I'm intrigued by Steve's results with Microsol. I might have to look at this, can't believe all that elevation and it's still a circle...Comment
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Setting solutions are brilliant Michael.I use Humbrol Decalfix, does the same job. That Hawk underside is looking much better now
Comment
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Hmm... I have Decalfix, but didn't seem to make much of a difference, but after a few models now the decals on that model were way thicker... Will have another crack on the next model!
CheersComment
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i too tried decal fix and did not have much success, swear by set and sol now.Comment
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I have tried approved and keep using my favourite. H2O. Works a treat. Cohesive, adhesive and with surface tension properties that makes H2O a chemical essential for life and for the delivery positioning and fixing of decals.
It is free and available in abundance. Plus, multi tasking in its use. It is possible with some agility to preform certain tasks to rid the human frame of many unwelcome matters. The washing of skin and clothes. It works. Also an alternative to alcohol. Try it you will love it.
LaurieComment
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Good shout Laurie, I've only used water on this Red Arrow and getting nice results, see exhibit a:Originally posted by \
The white decal is nicely sunk into the panel line here. Only problem I'm having is with this same decal as the curvature of the air intake is so great that there are gaps at the edge where it could have done with a setting agent to get fully around, but no complaints here it's turning out much better than my last attempt!
Oddly though, this is a very matt finish, I always thought you should gloss coat your models for decalling, but I'm finding with it being matt it's gripier for the decal, if a little more fiddly when moving it.
I'm not finding it a good substitute for alcohol though. Whilst my head is not fuzzy in the morning, the buzz during the evening isn't quite the same :PComment
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Right, fairings on and brush painted with Humbrol 34, not an exact match, but it'll do for this:
For some reason I thought to myself before I took them off the sprue "shall I paint them white on the sprue?" and the answer to that was no. Wrong answer Mike! It would have looked a lot better painted on the sprue as there's overflow onto the decal which makes it blatantly obvious it's not the same colour, but for my purposes it'll do.
Plane is as done as I'm going to do:
So I have worked out how to get the decal and fairings down and it look ok. Should have done better and painted on the sprue. This plane is actually a really good build, there's loads of detail on this and whilst I should have filled a bit on the nose to smooth that out, that's the only area of the entire plane that doesn't fit well.
It was worth having another crack at this as it was only a couple of quid on sale. I'm actually waiting for delivery of the 50th anniversary edition of this plane (http://www.airfix.com/shop/raf-red-arrows/raf-red-arrows-hawk-50th-display-season-starter-set-1-72.html). On that one I'll take more care and be more diligent!
Lessons learnt:
1) This needs white primer. I used black here, but the wheel bays should actually be a more white colour.
2) Do not put the fairings on when the destructions tell you to
3) Paint the fairings on the sprue
4) Whilst I did a good job of masking the canopy, there's a clear part that goes inside I could not figure out where it goes, but that's white too so needs to be there. Figure it out!
5) Liquid Poly is a good product
So apologies to Airfix, this is a great kit, if you ignore the fairings ;-)Comment
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Came out well in the end Michael. Will you be doing a completed thread?Comment
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Not for this one no, there's too many minor things wrong, this was more about learning from my mistakes from a £1.99 kit I picked up. Will do a proper build thread with the 50th anniversary edition ones. They are a Christmas present for my father who quite likes the Red Arrows and I want to do a nice display with those.
I may have started getting into modelling a bit late to make it good, but it's the thought that counts I'm told!!Comment
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Well tests and trouble aside, it turned out well in the end.
Top marks for persevering.
Ian MComment
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