Sanding-down

[Guest]

There is a good lot here. I have learnt a few tricks. Although there have been other articles on the same subject new ideas and forgotten ones and variations on the usual just keep on rolling out.

It just shows that even looking at old articles in the archives it is worth reviving some subjects.

Laurie

[Gern]

One that's not been mentioned is ordinary PVA - but only in joints where the two pieces are vertical to each other. You can paint it on with a small brush and use a larger, slightly damp brush to clean the excess before it dries. Because it is fairly thin, capillary action draws it into the joint, but it is thick enough to form a skin against both sides of the join and surface tension pulls it into a nice curve against them.

[Guest]

For filler, I use three:
Mr Surfacer 500


Mr Dissolved Putty and


Vallejo Plastic Putty


Each has its particular use. Mr Dissolved is particularly good when rubbing down stubborn joins or for very small gaps in difficult places where you need self-levelling qualities. I have also used it when I need to 'smooth' a rough surface. Mr Surfacer I use for joins that need somethign a bit thicker. Vallejo is good for gaps. All three can have the surplus removed with a cotton bud and ipa.

Following advice on this forum I am using Mr Surfacer 500 & 1000 and find them ideal. Can someone please tell me what IPA is please? I am rubbing down with wet & dry.

[Gern]

IPA is Isopropyl Alcohol. There are lots of sites on ebay which sell it and it's not expensive.

[Guest]

IPA is Isopropyl Alcohol. There are lots of sites on ebay which sell it and it's not expensive.

Okay, thanks for that

[Guest]

Good afternoon,
Can anyone offer some advice on sanding-down seams after they've been filled.


I fill small seams with superglue and then sand-down with 400 grit, 2000 grit and then 5000 grit; but it seems to take ages.


Regards


Andy

I use Mr Surfacer 500 & 1000 for filling. I have been rubbing down with wet & dry but today my wife saw me rubbing down and suggested instead I try her nail blocks, they work a treat and give a very smooth finish and rub down the seam very quickly. They are Nail Essentials White Blocks, sold by Salon Services and on line. I won't be using wet & dry again. This pic shows how fine a job it can do.

[ATTACH]100146.IPB[/ATTACH]

[Gern]

There's loads of useful stuff available on the cosmetics counter in your local pound shop Keith; including these polishing/buffing blocks - you don't need to shop for fancy salon goods.


Have you seen this thread?

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/unconventional-modelling-materials-list.7842/page-6

Well worth scrolling through that one Keith. Some really excellent tips for the newbie.

[Guest]

There's loads of useful stuff available on the cosmetics counter in your local pound shop Keith; including these polishing/buffing blocks - you don't need to shop for fancy salon goods.
Have you seen this thread?

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/threads/unconventional-modelling-materials-list.7842/page-6

Well worth scrolling through that one Keith. Some really excellent tips for the newbie.

Thanks for that, I love tips that save me money.

[Guest]

The trouble with Pound Shop and the like is that my nearest involves a 32 mile round trip, and I will not be the only one who doesn't live in a town or city. For that reason buying online is a big advantage, the small extra cost sometimes incurred is more than offset by the £'s saved in petrol. Just an afterthought

[Gern]

The trouble with Pound Shop and the like is that my nearest involves a 32 mile round trip, and I will not be the only one who doesn't live in a town or city. For that reason buying online is a big advantage, the small extra cost sometimes incurred is more than offset by the £'s saved in petrol. Just an afterthought [/quote
That's a fair old step Keith. I must admit I hadn't thought of the cost of shopping when you live so far from town. Obviously online shopping will save you money on this kind of thing. When I said the poundshop was an alternative to fancy salon goods, I really meant that you don't need to buy expensive "name" brand products, there are cheap alternatives available which will serve modeller's purposes just as well. I should have expressed myself more clearly.

[Guest]

You're alright Gern I know what you mean, when out shopping the cheaper shops offer good value-for-money alternatives. I have only just started so have had to buy a surprising amount of stuff, all online, but it isn't as though I have to buy this much stuff for my next project. Looking forward to getting a coat of primer on tomorrow as I have finished filling, rubbing down and making good. Let the fun commence.


ps. Sorry, should have called you Dave, didn't look properly, sorry.