rescribing raised panel lines

[Guest]

Does anyone know how to re scribe raised panel lines.


Scott

[PhilJ]

Isn't it as simple as sanding and buffing Scott?


Phil

[Guest]

Is there a reason to rescribe?. I rescribe sometimes, I currently have a Monogram Mitchell in the process but all the ones I have built previously I have left with raised lines. Raised lines highlight easily and can look really good with a faint drybrushing.


To rescribe I generally leave the raised lines on, and use 2 or 3 thickness of normal electrical insulation tape cut into thin(nish) strips to mark where I want to scribe. Just lay out a piece of tape on the mat, and stick two more layers on top. Cut strips to suit. Cheap and effective.


I use an Olpha P cutter with a cut down blade or a Trumpeter scriber to scribe the line. The insulation tape works well and is cheap enough to used twice or three times and binned. A lot of people recommend Dymo Tape but I find it expensive and it does't last long. Insulation tape is more flexible and works very well just so long as you scribe very lightly for the first cut . Once started you can use a bit more pressure for the second cut.


Insulation tape can be stretched to form curves and will go round fuselages easily. I have a set of various templates for panels and such. I use on a piece of piano wire filed to a sharp point to scribe those.


Once scribed I sand the whole lot down with fine paper and dust out with soft brush. I finish by washing thoroughly to get out the 'clog'.


The piccy below shows my basic tools. I made rivet wheels from an old alarm clock's cog wheels. I highlighted the nacelle with a pencil to show the effect. It is not hard and not particularly time consuming and fairly straightforward with a bit of practice.


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[Gern]

Replace them with very fine wire or human hair maybe?

[Guest]

Now that's a cool thought Dave, the reason for the question is thatwhilst fixing the wings of my beaufighter I have sanded off some of the raised panel lines and I need to replace them.


Scott

[Guest]

I have repaired raised panel lines in two ways. In the case of the recent 1/32 Zero I finished I simply scribed the missing line and did not sand it smooth. This leaves a raised edge rather like a plough furrow. The second method, where the sanding was severe because the model was a poor fit is to replace the line with super glue or fine filler using tape as the line markers.


I built two Monogram P-61 Black Widows some time ago and the fit of everything left a lot to be desired. As a result a lot of panel lines were removed in the build and needed replacing. I took these photos to show the technique. A very light wipe with nail polisher is all that is needed to finish them off. With a bit of practice it works pretty well once painted. I am highly allergic to super glue and I cannot use it and I therefore use Tamiya filler smeared on with a cotton bud. I suspect Gator glue would work just as well.


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[Gern]

This has been posted before Scott, but it's really useful .....


http://aeroscale.co.uk/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&r eq=viewtopic&topic_id=111677&ord=&page=2


The bit about replacing raised seams is on page2

[Guest]

Best way. Do not remove raised panel lines.


Scribe new recessed panel lines. Use the raised lines as template guides. Cerefully done works perfectly.


I use the Trumpeter. Just lay the blade alongside the raised an lightly pull the blade along. Repeat always holding the tool tightly to avoid the blade deviating.


Sand raise lines away. Carefully comlete panel intersections and clean out line after sanding. Recessed lines give a much better finish


Laurie

[stona]

I've never done it myself, but I've seen raised lines replaced with stretched sprue superglued to the surface and sanded suitably. It looked good.


Cheers


Steve

[Guest]

I'm with Steve stretched sprue works. I've done it and used super thin tamiya glue to wick it into place using capillary action. Just make sure its where you want it before you hit it with the glue.