motors baterys and speed controlers

[Guest]

Ok first of all i would like to say hi as im new!

just a quick run down on what things i got!

1 r/c scooby electric race car, 1 racing boat and a HMS corvette K166

right here we go im now looking at going in to submarines ive wanted to for a long time and after loooking at kits for about 2 years ive now decided to build a cratch akula style sub, but with 2 or 3 probs before i start!

before evryone says against this i do have some experience with modle scratch subs i helped a mate build one and my speed boat was from scratch too well was before it decided to go out of range at some speed hit what i thought was a small twig turned out to be a big log on the manchester ship canal flipped and sank before i could get to it in time with my dads narrowboat i was on at the time! opps.

anyways, i got myself 3-4 survos so thats ok need to get a 4+ channal radio and reciver easy done. i got a PROTECH MEGA X 600 8.4V ME60071 High performance electric motor in hardly used, and (1) 9.6v 600mAh NiCd Pro sport battery from a r/c car, (1) Rocket Pack 1500 Ni-CD battery and (2) Rocket Pack 2000 Ni-CD battery and i do have a speed controler that goes with the motor that i got told when i bought it that it would work well with the motor and i have had my K166 running with the motor, speed controler, survos and the 2000 Ni-CD batterys (batterys ran for about 30 mins or so)

question 1! will this motor be any good, use in a big 1.5 - 2.0 meter by 110mm width sub?

question 2!i have a 65mm 6 blade L/H prop that i was given so planning on using this any good or too big?

question 3! Are any of my batterys any good or do i need new ones? if so which ones?

im going to make a ballast tank so the sub will slightly submerge when its actervated, i have seen a system where you have a small tank with a air pump attached to it that pumps the air into a small balloon like item contained in another small container with holes in to let water in when you pump air out of the balloon,

Question 4! will SubTech - Airpump SUB-A301 do this job or do i need to make a device (shapped disc on a servo that squeeses the air pipe) to stop the slight presured air getting back into the balloon when the ballon is deflated?

sorry its a long winded questions just im not the best when it comes down to what components work best, just to add i dont want to buy a kit or anything as i already have all the drawings for the sub ect and easly build one just not sure if the ballast tank, motors ect are any good for the job! i would prefer to build my own ballast tank so any sugestions of simple ideas would be a help!

thanks all james!!!!!!

[Guest]

hi,

firstly welcome to the forum. I hope we can help your prolem and you can share your build with us.

Im sorry but i dont know anything about subs. check out Bunkerbarge's sub build:

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/showthread.php?t=2410

im not sure if that will help but i hope it will. There are plenty of sub builds goin on here so take a look around and i hope you find some info that can help you.

Richard.W

[Guest]

hello and welcome freefall

i`ll try and help where i can , but i may be lacking in experince in other areas. there are other submariners here who could lend some more expertise than i.

your using a wet hull style with a ARCABS style set up on dive control.

you want as much batterie capacity ( amps ) that you can squeeze in (within reason), so some odd stick packs not really ideal . also depends on what voltage you decide to run with . 6v or 12v ?

teh motor you have does sound a bit `hot` and ergo high current drain, this all has a knock on effect in runtime.but motors and props really do require a lot of experimentation with different types to get a good balance between speed and current draw etc etc

the prop you listed well, i do not have any idea , you do not say what styke of prop you have, or mention intended size/weight of your hull, what material you are making it from.

these things are all needing looked at . as well as fail safe systems. most subs have at least 2.

there are a few kits out there that may give you an idea on whats required , i am by no means trying to put you off but just hoping to show you theres more to scratch building a sub than some spare motors and batteries lying around.

suggested kits.....

uss albacore , static diver

dumas akula dynamic diver.

now there loads of pro`s and cons to each type , but these are reasonably cheap kits with not much more extra kit needed, and dave keogh at pandan is a very helpful guy if more advice is needed ( from past experience)

anyway.

keep us upto date on how you progress, as i said i am no means trying to put you off, these are just points that i think you need to address before continuing, there may even be a lot more that i havent even touched on, maybe one of teh other submariners could take the torch from here??

Adz..

[Guest]

I can't add a lot to Adz's comments exept to say that for your first sub I would suggest that you ballast it to very slightly positive when fully ballasted. That way you should always get it back and only gentle plane movement should take it down.

As you get more experienced and the sub proves it's reliability maybe you can add a bit more ballast to it and have it purely static diving.

I would be cautios with your first one, trust me it will be your pride and joy and the easiest thing in the world to loose!!

By the way a very warm welcome to the forum. I used to sail up and down the Manchester Ship Canal with Manchester Liners many years ago so I know it quite well.

[Guest]

hi well the hull will be made of 5mm plastic and the bow and sturn sections of fiberglass as all thought i am really good with fiberglass hit plastic hard and it stays hit fiberglass and it can flex or crack! it will be about 1.5m long at max from tip to tip, and the main hull will be about 110mm diameter, the weight is unknown till i have most of it done + need more help on the batterys ect before can give a close est! all i know about the prop is its a raboesch 65mm 6 blade prop L/H thats designed for subs its the style fond on modernday real life subs with 6 long curved blades given to me by my mate who has a spare one for his sub that i just helped build!

the idea is not to put this sub together in days or weeks but over a long time and take time with it hence reason why i want advice about the motor ect i do have a 2-1 reduction gear box thats designed for my motor to, only wanted to see if can use up spare parts i got than buy new one but if i will work better and give better results then im propared to replace the parts!

as for fail safe parts im only going to use the ballast tank to slightly submerge the sub so if the air pump system fails it will still have a positive boiancy so will still come very close to the serfice, plan on having the tip of the conning tower out of the water, so if power dies it wont sink unlike some forms of ballast tank,

second it has a servo run by a separate battery and radio that reliced a boy, this method is replicated on all my models and does work and almost gave me enough time to get my speed boat back i lost sence this accident i have lengthened all my boy thred lengths by 1m so all are now 2m long, survo holds the wheel with very strong string (not the normal string you get in shops) wrapped round and a 2 inch by 1 inch boy on and if boat sinks the air in the boy unwinds the string and the boy flots and can hold my corvette K166 from sinking with the boy just aflot.

its going to run of 6v this i have already decided as i know you can get decent running times from smaller motors and fairly decent sized battterys as i ran a 6v system on my speed boat and it worked wonders till i lost it!

as i have said i have been looking for about to years and have been looking a pros a nd cons of posative and neg ballast or even no ballast tanks, and as i wish to take my time if all fails when making it i will just turn it into a static model,

the motor and things are stuff i bought about 6 months ago and was told the 2 rocket 2000 batterys and the motor would be good together and will give a good running time but as you say the motor ov eats the bat power way to fast.

thank you for all you help so far

[Guest]

I can't add a lot to Adz's comments exept to say that for your first sub I would suggest that you ballast it to very slightly positive when fully ballasted. That way you should always get it back and only gentle plane movement should take it down.As you get more experienced and the sub proves it's reliability maybe you can add a bit more ballast to it and have it purely static diving.

I would be cautios with your first one, trust me it will be your pride and joy and the easiest thing in the world to loose!!

By the way a very warm welcome to the forum. I used to sail up and down the Manchester Ship Canal with Manchester Liners many years ago so I know it quite well.

thank you as ive been investigating i had decided to make it a posative boyancy so if my power dies, or the air pump fails it will come to the top of the conning tower.

yer lost my speed boat in the area just at the big bacen not far from the canal locks are not far from the war museum i think, was when we went to the manchester games! few years ago!