What do you use to hold parts / figures etc while painting ?

[Bortig the Viking]

I use these as well as cocktail sticks and croc clips.

[Steve Jones]

We on the darkside just use the force. LOL

[Bortig the Viking]

Us Vikings pray to Odin.

[Jason Crausby]

I'm another foot driller myself... I use a paper clip that I bend into a stand with one prong going straight up into the foot and the rest of the clip secured onto an old tamiya paint bottle with lost of blutak.... once the base for the figure is complete I drill a hole in that snip the paperclip in the foot and use it the fit directly onto a base!
I also acquired a really useful miniature vice from somewhere!

Jason

[Jim R]

Hi John
I use many of the ideas above

Think Jim has one of those hand held tool holders .

The one I have is THIS. Very expensive for what it is but beautifully made and I find it really useful. Lovely heavy base.
Jim

[Ian M]

Re the figures with the pin in the foot. As said it can be a bit tricky drilling into the bottom of the foot. If they have packs/bags etc to be added later, I often drill into the body where the hole will be hidden by the "extras" that are added after the fact.
Large parts of armour kits have been known to be super-glued to the end of a thick plastic sprue. Not had one fall off (yet) and a sharp knock normally gets them off with out damage.
Bamboo barbecue sticks are good value. Cut them in half and you have twice as many. cocktail sticks better for the smaller parts.
I to use the crock clip on a stick and just stick them in a block of styro-foam that we get so much of every time you buy something that needs support/protection....
Returning t the figures, I have a bundle of brass wire that I use, just hold them in a normal pin-vice. I often leave a centimetre in the foot and use that to plant the figure on the base...
Paint stirrer sticks with either white tak or double sticky tape also gets used a fair bit here-

[Tim Marlow]

For my smaller wargames figures, those 28mms that are already based and that are painted about a dozen at a time, I blu tac them to golf tees. I blu tac them to lollipop sticks in five’s for smaller figures.
For 35mm and larger I would be painting far fewer at a time so I’d use the wire in the foot method and hold them in a cheap pin vice.....wire in the foot is strongest for mounting them on the dio anyway....if you leave a base on them, you’re back to golf tees.....
For sub assemblies and parts I have a large selection of various shaped wood offcuts that I blu tac the part too. Wheels (and other items with holes in) I use a block of wood with a lot of cocktail sticks mounted around it, and gues what....I use yet more blu tac to hold them on....

[Guest]

Hi all.
thanks for the replies, some neat ideas I'd like to try.
Thought the cardboard square thingy from Andy looked good, my lump of insulation is getting towards the end as its full of holes. Have plenty of old cardboard, and some tape. Will be like the Blue Peter set this afternoon.:smiling2:

Just ordered some of those clips that Simon mentioned along with some paint from Johns Shop

[Guest]

Thought the cardboard square thingy from Andy looked good, my lump of insulation is getting towards the end as its full of holes. Have plenty of old cardboard, and some tape. Will be like the Blue Peter set this afternoon.:smiling2:

I find it a bit easier than trying to find a hole-free section of foam :smiling5:

I just smeared a little PVA between the cardboard "layers" then wrapped the lot in masking tape. Remember to put something on the bottom, like a flat piece of card or a few layers of tape, or when you lift your base up to move it out of the way your skewers will fall straight through. I learned that the hard way!

[minitnkr]

Have tried all of the above over 60+ years, so have a vast array of third hands, machinist blocks, clamps, clips, tweezers, and wire & wood thingys, but mostly use 'HandA1a, left, one each only':smiling2: as I am a hairy stick user. PaulE

[Mr Bowcat]

I find it a bit easier than trying to find a hole-free section of foam :smiling5:

I just smeared a little PVA between the cardboard "layers" then wrapped the lot in masking tape. Remember to put something on the bottom, like a flat piece of card or a few layers of tape, or when you lift your base up to move it out of the way your skewers will fall straight through. I learned that the hard way!

Something I would add (having made my own) is choose cardboard with smaller corrugations. I used normal "box" cardboard and find the gaps are mostly too big for cocktail sticks, which fall through to the bottom. It's fine for skewers and the like, but with cocktail sticks if I drop them in I have to wait for the paint to go off before removing them again as the painted part is literally just above the top of the cardboard (I hope that makes sense).

[scottie3158]

I use an old drill chuck its nice and heavy so wont topple over and will accept all sizes of rod or sprue you care to use.

[Steven000]

I always use a BBQ-stick, I add a small blob of 'hot-glue' on the tip (cut off 50% of the tip), then I gently lower the shoes of the figure into the blob while still liquid, after contact I pull the figure up (about 3mm), then I hold it for 10sec so it cools down and the figure stays in position...

(See the figure on the right)


After paiting you can gently pull of the hot glue. Works for me but can be a mess if you haven't used hot glue before ; )

[Guest]

Thanks guys.
Any one got a spare eye !
Read all about it on my Tiger page .

[yak face]

On the rare occasions ive done figures i have used the ‘drill a hole and glue on a cocktail stick ‘method similar to the above , for spraying small things i tend to stick them onto wooden stirring sticks with tape or I use a lot of wooden clothes pegs ( dirt cheap if you can find them ) with the ends cut off at 45 degrees so it makes a pointed end.