Items you have bought and at the time thought they were a good idea - but never used.

[Guest]

I wouldn’t consider those a waste of money, as they’re good paints. Now if you had a bunch of LifeColor bottles, that would have been a purchase you’d not use a lot. I speak from experience.

Absolutely. I was scraping the barrel to be honest!

LifeColor? Never heard of those!

[Guest]

Keep it that way

LifeColor has a wide range of paints matched to real-world colours, and apparently many people swear by them. However, when I tried a number of different ones a few years ago (because I wanted those real-world colour matches), I mostly swore at them. You shouldn’t need five coats to paint light blue Airfix plastic, sand brown, for just one example.

[SimonT]

This cuts spirals, not circles. ’Nuff said.

I use one of these all the time - been using since late 1980's and must have cut hundreds if not thousands or circles since


wheel rims made the other day

the trick is not to use it as sold - turn the blade around or spin it the other way so that you scribe with the back edge of the blade rather than trying to cut with the blade

this stops it digging in and wandering

the old 1980's versions were rock solid and just worked - unfortunately I destroyed mine in a glue accident a couple of years ago

current ones are not as well made as they used to be and benefit from a little reinforcing - glue a strip of plastic card on the side of each yellow beam
it needs to be just thick enough to fill the gap between the black slider and the yellow beam



One thing I bought and never use is a Flex-i-file - u shaped rod with thin bits of sandpaper between the ends

I can do a much better job with a Wilko's emery board

[SimonT]

I grabbed these to use for working with plastic sheet and scratch building projects,


I haven't used them fully yet, but they work well and for €2,99 from Lidl, I'll hang on to t

Allen - they are actually for etching glass

[Guest]

the trick is not to use it as sold - turn the blade around or spin it the other way so that you scribe with the back edge of the blade rather than trying to cut with the blade

I might have to try that one of these days, then After finding that Olfa cutter a failure I bought more elaborate affair that does work, though.

One thing I bought and never use is a Flex-i-file - u shaped rod with thin bits of sandpaper between the ends

I have occasionally thought of buying one, but then reconsidered and figured, “what does it do that regular sandpaper doesn’t?”

[rtfoe]

Hi, I actually found these items quite usefull...

Initially I found this cutter not as acurate as I wanted for thick single cuts because of how the blade slices but it has helped with my latest 1/700 repetetive cuts of harbour supports. Perhaps I'm lucky as the cutting matt for mine sits slightly proud of the steel frame so the alighning plates function.

No problem with this with no paint creeping. I either cover the other appertures with masking tape or cut the individual circles out to make single templates for easier handling. Used as a scribing template for smaller circles as well.

The Olafs been handy with large circles used the way Simon described if you don't expect immediate cuts.

Now these are items that I have used once or not used in a while and perhaps not at all...


I still use a tooth pick or a brush to pick up paint or stir...


Specially bought to cut rigging for my USS Constipation and has since been put aside like the Frigate.


Used only once to melt some polysterene and battery powering my little Corsair but never used as intended for since I don't solder often.


Doesn't work as well on plastic as it does cleaning metal but now since I'm starting on PE for my ships perhaps I might see use for it to clean and roughen the PE to take paint.

Cheers,
Richard

[The Smythe Meister]

Blimey,i`ve been beaten to it........... TWICE!!!:dizzy:
Serves me right for not reading the contents more closely,but,a couple of years ago i was after a way to make Rivets for 1/35th AFVs.Glanced at this ,picked it up,and bought it in one lightening fast transaction,happy i was.......until i got home and looked studiously at my new purchase:thumb2:.......
...... and years later .........

....... completely untouched!!!
Cheers,
Andy

[Guest]

I had to think about this for a while as most items that I buy are very useful and get used. I did remember that I had few that were pretty much a waste of time and money though...….

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1119541[/ATTACH]
I bought this 3 or more years ago and I never used it. Lent it to a friend and he did. Too many RPMs for plastic, 5,000 - 20,000 with no chance for a result. Aldi, for €29,95, so I can't complain too much….I grabbed these to use for working with plastic sheet and scratch building projects,

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1119542[/ATTACH]
I haven't used them fully yet, but they work well and for €2,99 from Lidl, I'll hang on to them for later....Next is something I whipped up at work after seeing the price of indy track link assembly tools,

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1119547[/ATTACH]
It's a bit rough, but it does work good. The cost was zip, null, nada and I never used it as it's worthless to assemble Friul metal tracks….

The last one was a total waste of a bundle of cash and using it to remove tiny pieces from the sprue's was a huge disaster on all counts and fingers,

[ATTACH=CONFIG]n1119545[/ATTACH]
And it didn' come with a box of band aids for the price either!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I do have other things that I haven't used yet, but know I will down the line. They weren't expensive or a waste of money really……………….

Bleib Gesund
Allen

So that was you that bought the grinder of ebay......... :tears-of-joy:

[Guest]

Dude I bought the Dremel one , apart from looking at it that's as far as I have got, can't fit a very small drill in the chuck, so it will sit under the bench . That disc cutter is a great tool, put in on Evil bay , bet you get your money back .

I used mine on the car when I changed the front brake regulator/sensor thingy that lights up on the dash. It had rusted into place, being plastic, yes plastic and all, had to drill it out and then used the Dremel to clean out the bore. The instructions stated that you undo the bolt securing it, then using a screw driver (flat blade) you gently rock it and it slides out.
One tine of wd40, drive the worst out with a drift bar, drill out the rest and then clean up - the guy on you tube did it in 20 minutes, mine took 9 hours over two days.....

[Guest]

Hi, I actually found these items quite usefull...

Initially I found this cutter not as acurate as I wanted for thick single cuts because of how the blade slices but it has helped with my latest 1/700 repetetive cuts of harbour supports. Perhaps I'm lucky as the cutting matt for mine sits slightly proud of the steel frame so the alighning plates function.
[ATTACH]379413[/ATTACH]
No problem with this with no paint creeping. I either cover the other appertures with masking tape or cut the individual circles out to make single templates for easier handling. Used as a scribing template for smaller circles as well.
[ATTACH]379414[/ATTACH]
The Olafs been handy with large circles used the way Simon described if you don't expect immediate cuts.
[ATTACH]379415[/ATTACH]
Now these are items that I have used once or not used in a while and perhaps not at all...

[ATTACH]379416[/ATTACH]
I still use a tooth pick or a brush to pick up paint or stir...

[ATTACH]379417[/ATTACH]
Specially bought to cut rigging for my USS Constipation and has since been put aside like the Frigate.

[ATTACH]379418[/ATTACH]
Used only once to melt some polysterene and battery powering my little Corsair but never used as intended for since I don't solder often.

[ATTACH]379419[/ATTACH]
Doesn't work as well on plastic as it does cleaning metal but now since I'm starting on PE for my ships perhaps I might see use for it to clean and roughen the PE to take paint.

Cheers,
Richard

Richard, that's interesting about the cutting mat sitting proud, given me a though I could slip some plastic card under mine to give that lift. I found that when cutting thicker plastic strip a series of slight downward presses

[Guest]

I used mine on the car when I changed the front brake regulator/sensor thingy that lights up on the dash. It had rusted into place, being plastic, yes plastic and all, had to drill it out and then used the Dremel to clean out the bore. The instructions stated that you undo the bolt securing it, then using a screw driver (flat blade) you gently rock it and it slides out.
One tine of wd40, drive the worst out with a drift bar, drill out the rest and then clean up - the guy on you tube did it in 20 minutes, mine took 9 hours over two days.....

Mike I'm quite positive that last slap around your head by SWMBO has effected you . By now you should have realised that every instruction that says this can be achieved in the smallest time or the smallest amount of tools required is a liar. :upside::nerd:

[AlanG]

Nothing wrong with those rivet makers. I'll be getting one at some point to rivet mark a kit or two.

[The Smythe Meister]

Nothing wrong with those rivet makers. I'll be getting one at some point to rivet mark a kit or two.

Indeed Alan,for the correct purpose they appear to be a cracking bit of kit :thumb2: ........ just not for my AFVs:disappointed2:
If you pm me a delivery address i`ll pop them in the post to you,you`re more than welcomed to them,it`d be good for them to get some use mate:smiling:,,
Cheers,
Andy

[AlanG]

That's a very kind offer from you Andy. Many thanks. :thumb2:

PM inbound.

Just out of interest though. Why aren't they good for armour?

[rtfoe]

That's a very kind offer from you Andy. Many thanks. :thumb2:

PM inbound.

Just out of interest though. Why aren't they good for armour?

I guess rivets on 1/35 armour are suppose to be embossed or raised. The tool engraves rivet detail for aircraft modeling.

Cheers,
Richard