Cleaning before painting - Help

[Guest]

What cleaning technique do you guys use for cleaning off the release agent from a kit prior to priming or airbrushing?

I thought I had cleaned mine well enough with warm water and a dash of washing up liquid in a bowl, giving a good agitation with a brush and then air drying. Then when I tried to apply the Tamiya Fine Primer it managed to separate on a few of the parts as though it was still dirty.

Would it be an idea to clean with some meths on a clean cloth just prior to spraying to remove any last residue or could this damage the acrylic paint application?

Any recommendations??

Thanks,

Colin.

[Dave W]

I wash the parts on the sprues before starting the build.Then i wash the completed model just before priming.I use water with bit of washing up liduid the same as you.Works everytime for me.

[Guest]

I rarely wash anything but if a model looks oily I do what you did, warm water & detergent

I always use Halfords primer, it sticks to just about anything

[Guest]

Used to wash but do not now.

Every piece large enough I wet & dry with a 1200 to 1500 paper. The smaller the piece the finer the paper which reduces any small accidental damage.

Came to the conclusion that it is not only possible manufacturing fluids residue but the shiny surface of the plastic. Once that has been done using Vallejo primer airbrushed I have not had any problems.

That is except on a small area on the Wellington fuselage that I missed & it peeled. Found it was still shiny.

Also if you use this method to rinse after wet & drying. I also use a Tac Cloth just before priming to get rid of specs & dust.

Laurie

[HAWKERHUNTER]

I wipe mine down with white spirit once it is built. Seems to take the shine off the plastic without damaging the model.

[Guest]

I've always used the same method, an idea i had years ago when i was painting endless plastic figures for myself and friends who did war-gaming / played D&D etc.

Its based on a stone polishing method and is so quick and simple.

All you do is stick the bits you need "buffed" into a glass coffee jar (or metal coffee tin for larger bits) about 1/3 full of bird grit ...pop lid on ..... then just shake it, roll it, waggle it, jiggle it, ... whatever makes you feel groovey

Tip out the contents after about 30 seconds of shaking and you'll find they have a nice evenly sanded surface, blow dust off or wash the bits and job done!!

Works for nearly everything .... Just take extra care with delicate bits

[Guest]

Hey Colin that is a great idea.

Obviously large bits are difficult such as a fuselage but smaller pieces which are hard to prepare are perfect for this method.

Have you a video of your performance Colin. I have visions of model makers prancing around their garage & wives phoning the mental authorities.

Thanks for that .

Laurie

[Guest]

Sorry Laurie i forgot to mention that larger items are able to be "Buffed up" in a large heavy duty plastic bag, just agitate the grit particles enough to abraise the surface.

As for the performance, the DVDs are on sale from under the counter at your local dodgy video shop

[Guest]

As for the performance, the DVDs are on sale from under the counter at your local dodgy video shop [/quote

Now that'd be worth a fiver of anyone's money!

[Guest]

That really depends on the performance Patrick !

Colin do you use water with the grit ?

Just off to get the grit.

Laurie

[Guest]

No water Laurie, just dry.... it works like a fine sand blasting.

The bird grit with the oyster shell additive needs to be seived first as the larger bits of the shell can score the plastic somewhat (ask me how i know )

Patrick ... for a fiver you get the directors cut extended remix version with the alternative endings

[Guest]

Thanks for your replies everyone.

On reflection I think Laurie may have a good point as I've noticed the surface on this kit is super glossy. It's Revells 1/24 McLaren MP4/25.

I like the idea with the bird grit in a container, can see myself now dancing around the shed shaking a tin whilst the neighbours look on :lol:.

I did try Halfords primer on a previous kit and it really does stick to anything but I found the Tamiya Fine is so smooth on the detail.

Thanks again,

Colin.

[Guest]

Well Colin (CDW) got my grit & put my first few bits thro. the mill ! Grit avec oyster shells that is. Wife has not see me perform yet but it will soon be around the family that father is senile, again ?

Well pleased with the result best tip for a long time Colin. Thanks for that. The shine has gone but without any grazing of the surface. Also gets all those difficult to get at bits. Need one of those B & Q paint mixer things but a little less violent.

Yes I have a preference, Colin (69) , for primers by the model paint manufacturers. Not used Tamiya my experience is with Vallejo which also has a smooth finish without loss of detail. But you cannot beat using the thing that suits & satisfies what you have gained from experience.

Laurie

[Guest]

How about placing the whole sprue into a suitably sized box with some grit and "buffing" while it's still attached then giving a good wash in warm water and detergent.

Should be fully cleaned and "etched" ready for priming then.

Great idea that bird grit, I'm off to the pet store tomorrow

[Guest]

Every type of bird grit I can find on the web has oyster shell!

What type did you manage to get hold of Laurie? What one do you use Colin?