Mig Washes, filters, weathering etc, for a new modeller.

[Guest]

Hi, new to modelling and also to this site. I have a few questions that i need to help me on my way.

My model that I am building, is a 1/24 1950's plastic pick up truck. The paints I am using on it are Tamiya and Vallejo Acrylics.

The effect I am after is the old, rusty, dusty type pick up.

My questions are:

1. I know about the Mig pigments, what are washes and filters?

2. If you have used thinners for mig pigments, and you want to keep that, can you put a

mig fixer on it to keep the effect you got?

3. If you use a (rust) wash, will it stay on or do you need a fixer for it?

4. If you use or want to use more than one wash, do you have to wait until the first

wash is dry before putting the next one on, or don't they mix well?

5. The mig oil + grease stain, can you put that straight on or is there a fixer for that

as well.

6. Last question for today, Pin washing. i have seen in a model mag, about pin washing

It brings out the definition of the door lines etc. How do you do it? Can you use

Acrylic paints to do this or something else. Once on, same again is ther a fixer for

this or do you not need one?

Sorry for all the boring questions, I only bought my first airbrush 3 weeks ago, I asked

the gent in the shop about a dozen questions on it.

No doubt I will ask more, many thanks for your help.

Garry

[stona]

Hi Garry and welcome aboard. I'm sure a Mig user will be along with specific answers but I can clear up a couple of points.

Filters. These are a type of wash applied over the surface of the model. It is designed to complement and enhance the paintwork to give a realistic depth and shade. (You can make your own using artists oil,I use a "dot matrix filter" which I can explain if it would be helpful.)

Washes. There are two types. A clay based wash is usually applied over a model and then most is removed leaving some behind in panel lines and other detail. A pin wash is applied specifically to such detail,again excess is removed.

I'm not familiar with Mig "fixer" but generally any weathering effect would need to be fixed,usually with a final coat of varnish.

If you are applying more than one wash you need to do it sequentially,start with the darkest and let it dry before applying another.

There are different methods for pin washing. I use a turps type solvent and artists oil paint. Mix a thin solution and with a fine brush touch it to the panel line or other detail. The wash will move along or around the detail by capillary action. Any excess can be removed with a cloth dampened with the solvent. I don't see why the same technique wouldn't work with an acrylic paint with the relevant solvent. If you are planning to apply a Mig wash there would be no need to do a pin wash as well. I have been using the Pro-modeller washes and only do a pinwash in areas like cockpits and wheel wells where an all over wash (and removal) isn't practical.

I'd suggest experimenting on some scrap before comitting to your model. All these techniques take a bit of practice! It's very easy to overdo any weathering so go easy.

Good luck with the airbrush.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Garry, welcome to the site mate, and don't be afraid of asking heaps of questions. It's not very often I am able to chime in with answers, but I recently took delivery of a large job-lot of Mig materials. I will answer best I can and wait for others to add.

1. I know about the Mig pigments, what are washes and filters?

Washes are a diluted solution of paint in its respective thinner (turps or white spirit for oils and enamels, alcohol or water for acrylic). Thinned so you have a "dirty thinners" mix rather than a "thin paint" They are used for a variety of things, including accenting panel lines (as you mention below, adding shadows or grime to bolt heads, cockpit/dashboard detail etc, and also for fuel and fluid stains on fuel tanks, trucks, cars etc... with so many mix ratios and colours, they can be used to simulate almost any liquid or dirt that exists in the real world.

2. If you have used thinners for mig pigments, and you want to keep that, can you put a

mig fixer on it to keep the effect you got?

I did an experiment with Mig Pigment Fixer and whether you use the pigments on their own dry, or mixed with thinner, spraying on the fixer using low pressure from an airbrush worked best for me. This secures the powders so they're less likely to come off with handling.

3. If you use a (rust) wash, will it stay on or do you need a fixer for it?

A wash shouldn't need anything to fix it. If you're adding layer after layer of wash, it may help to secure each layer with some varnish or similar.

4. If you use or want to use more than one wash, do you have to wait until the first

wash is dry before putting the next one on, or don't they mix well?

You can mix washes to change their colour, but see answer to 3 - let them dry and if you're in doubt, add a layer of varnish.

5. The mig oil + grease stain, can you put that straight on or is there a fixer for that

as well.

I have not used these yet, but i believe they are like washes - i.e. no fixer needed

6. Last question for today, Pin washing. i have seen in a model mag, about pin washing

It brings out the definition of the door lines etc. How do you do it? Can you use

Acrylic paints to do this or something else. Once on, same again is ther a fixer for

this or do you not need one?

See my notes on washes above. Either acrylic or oil/enamel can be used. It's best to experiment on an old beat up model first so you get the proportions right, then just touch the brush to the end of the panel line and the wash should flow along it. Once it's dry, if it's not dark enough, you can either repeat the process or mix up a more concentrated mix.

I hope this helps, this is only from my experience, I'm not an expert, but feel free to check out my build threads for the results of the above techniques.

Stuart

[Guest]

Dang it Steve, you posted when I was writing lol!!! I forgot to answer the bit about filters Garry, sorry dude!!!

[stona]

Dang it Steve, you posted when I was writing lol!!! I forgot to answer the bit about filters Garry, sorry dude!!!

But as we all know two opinions are always better than one! Everyone has their own little foibles and preferred systems and noone is right or wrong. There are many ways to skin a cat. Also you use the Mig products,whereas I haven't yet,and can give Garry some more specific info.

I would never presume to tell anyone how to build their model but I will tell them how I do mine lol.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Haha I had the window open for ages as I was doing some other stuff and I figured it'd overlap! and you're quite correct, the more answers you get to a question the more info you have! :lookupthere:

[Guest]

Hi

Many many thanks for the advice, It has helped me a lot. Out at the weekend to buy a few items, and try on some old bits of plastic etc.

Also thanks to the very quick replies.

Cheers

Garry