I've had quite a few models lately that have had cockit instrument decals. Now this is going to sound like a sill question but do i have to 'remove/file off' the moulded instruments before i use the decal on the instrument panel should i want to use it? I've normally painted the instrument panel but never thought of using the decals.
-
-
Hi Allyne, I've filed off the raised detail if I'm going to use a whole fascia decal. I did try once to make one conform but failed miserably. The only other alternative is to cut out individual dial faces. I've seen it done but never tried to do it myself,it would seem easier to paint it!
Cheers
Steve -
Cheers SteveComment
-
What at first sounds 'a silly question, is in fact quite a good one!
I have had the sme thought a few times. I guess that you might be able to bully things down with loads of Micro sol and a soft brush? I s'pose the only real way to find out is to try and put the decal down on the 'lumpy' panel. Then if it works you can tell/show us. If it dont work, remove the decal (an other thing micro sol is good for) and paint it as you normally would.
If you get to try it before me, dont forget to post the results so we can all 'av a good laugh. Er I mean learn summit!
Ian MComment
-
It would, in theory, be possible to bed down a decal into the moulded instrument panel detail but, let's be honest, the chances of getting them to line up right and sink into the instruments are slim. Add to that the fact that once decaled up and glued under the front of the cockpit, it would look ok flat. So, unless I could guarantee the good bedding down of the decal, I would file it flat. However, if the raised detail is filed down but not quite flat, i.e. just leave a slight bit of raised detail, the decal would bed down onto that and give it a bit of a 3D look. Remember that Eduard use photo etch for instrument panels which are very flat and look great.Comment
-
I've never filed the surface down yet, (only because it never occurred to me), initially, in the before time and the long long ago I used to slap it on and just tolerate the fact it didn't lay flat in the recesses, then I discovered Microsol, BANG AND THE DECAL CONFORMS, (oops, sorry, had a Barry Scott moment there)
Seriously I just lay the decal and mae sure it's positioned then dollop some of the magic sol on and watch it schlurp to the lumps and bumps, it generally looks pretty good, irritatingly i've none visible enough to photograph and show you but next time I do one i'll try and remember to take a pic.
That said, filing it flat will do the job nicely too.Comment
-
Cheers guys. I haven't got any microsol but i have files lolComment
-
Well done m1ks! I did try on a Hasegawa kit (it may have been the Bf109G) a while ago with several slurps of microsol over a couple of days. I don't know whether the detail was just too raised but I couldn't get the decal to conform properly. Obviously it can be done.
Cheers
SteveComment
-
It quite likely depends on the decal as with most and how they react to Microsol, I had a pig of a job getting the ones on the Saturn V to conform but then the last plane I did, it sank straight on, I find, regardless of what the bottle says, once the decals gone soft and wrinkled a wet paintbrush can be used gently to prod it into submission.
Al, get some Microsol, it's amazing, it really is, have a look at the 1:24 racing bike I did, the riders decals were all sol'ed on and it wouldn't have happened otherwise.Comment
Comment