How to camoflauge (First timer)

[Guest]

Hello

I am about to prIme my 1:48 Tamiya ME109. I have never done a camo before. Thos one would appear to be less difficult than some, as it has straight lines. But I'm wondering: Is it best to prime both wing assembly and fuselage seperately and then do the camo painting with them separate, or to assemble and glue both bits, then prime, then do the camo work as one.

Being my first time with camo, it all fills me with FEAR!

Any tips will be gratefully received

Thanks

Aidan

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[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I did this kit last year, just paint the light blue first, then mask off the edges and then paint the darker colour, then mask off the pattern and spray the darkest colour on. Its not a good picture but here was my built model

All I would say is just take your time, make sure the edges of the tape are burnished down so you dont get any paint seepage and you will be fine

Adrian

[Guest]

I have always finished the craft less all the little bits (which get knocked off during painting).

If you paint then put on the wings you are going to have unenviable problems. I have found on most models that that wing joint causes problems with gaps down minor filling. But it is impossible to hide the joint after painting. I would get the aircraft finished before painting including priming.

As it is a German Aircraft I know a man on this forum who will advise. Over to Steve (Stona). Thinks where does Stona come from.

Laurie

PS not sure if the best thing here is tape. I use White Tack in rolls. But then I have not found a camouflage with straight lines. Find that a bit strange as it negates the camouflage in some degree.

[stona]

Hi Aidan and greetings from sunny Acton where I find myself for the next week or so!

The scheme on those early 109s was a pretty hard edge. It is entirely possible,though not proven,that the dark green colour didn't spray well and was brushed on.

Anyways,as far as a model is concerned I mask with tape as Adrian suggests. Spray the light blue colour (RLM 65) followed by the lighter camouflage colour (RLM 02) and then the darker colour (RLM 71). Follow the Tamiya instructions for the pattern unless you have good evidence for a variation as it looks very,very close to a known scheme. They obviously did their research!

Here's one I did using this method.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Adrian, Laurie and Steve, many thanks for the information.

Steve that's certainly something to aspire to!

Will go off to stick the wings onto the fuselage then add the primer....

Aidan

[Guest]

Another related question if I may please:

This kit allows me to have the flats and the front wing slats extended. Would these ever be in the fully extended position while the aircraft was on the ground and parked? I'm keen to have both of these extended, simply as it looks good....

Thanks

Aidan

[Guest]

I would think they would have flaps & rudder in the closed position on the ground Aidan. To have them open would invite wind to disturb the aircraft & in a high wind move it.

But it is a model. If they were carrying out servicing they may well have them extended. I take the view if it is how I like to see it I do it.

Just had a good look at pictures of aircraft on the ground. Harrier Red Arrows & they were all in the closed position. But interesting a couple of aircraft at the Jersey B of B air show had flaps one down & one tail up. These were foreign jobs.

Laurie

[stona]

The leading edge slats on the Bf 109 E (and F) moved in and out on a sort of swinging arm. Later models ran on tracks. None were powered or controlled by the pilot in any way. They would deploy and retract,in flight,according to aerodynamic forces acting upon them.It was common practice for ground crew to push the slats back in on parked aircraft,this would avoid the ingress of any foreign material which would effect the smooth operation of the system. Once pushed in on the 109 they tended to stay in simply because the aircraft is a tail sitter giving the wing a high angle of attack on the ground.

Having said that there are some pictures of aircraft,on the ground,with slats extended or even one extended and one retracted.

If you want your model to have slats deployed then go for it!

As for flaps it is not at all unusual to see Bf 109s parked with the flaps in a variety of lowered positions. Two things,first the flaps would always be symmetrical,that is deployed by the same amount. A second point,often missed is that the ailerons and flaps were linked. When the flaps were lowered both ailerons also drooped by a small amount. If you model the ailerons as if the stick has been pushed to one side (one up one down,a bit unusual) this is hardly noticeable but if you model them in a neutral position they should both droop very slightly.

Radiator flaps were also commonly left wide open on parked aircraft.

Here's an E with flaps partially lowered,the slight droop of the aileron is also evident:

Radiator flap open:

Typical,slats up:

Slats out,this is on a Bf 109 T,essentially an E with an extended wingspan intended for carrier operations:

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Spray the light blue colour (RLM 65) followed by the lighter camouflage colour (RLM 02) and then the darker colour (RLM 71).Steve

Just to claify please, before I proceed. I spray the entire model with RLM 65, then do the camo bits RLM02, then the darker RLM71?

Thanks

Aidan

[stona]

You can do. I don't spray the top of the wings,horizontal stabilisers or fuselage but make sure you do spray enough RLM 65 to make sure that you overlap where the upper colours will go.

The same applies for the RLM 02. You don't have to spray all the upper surfaces but you need to make sure that you have an overlap into the RLM 71 (which will be covered by the RLM 71).

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

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Well it's assembled and primed, ready for the camo. I'm really happy with the Vallejo primer.

Time to apply your various and collective advice on my first camo. I suppose I'm pleased it's straight edged - makes it a bit easier!

Aidan

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[Guest]

Xtracrylix RLM65.

I sprayed my ME109 with this paint and it dried to be a semi gloss! Beautiful finish but shiny! I stirred and stirred and shook and shook and stirred some more before use. Is it supposed to be semi gloss? Presumably I can spray the finsihed thing with matt varnish.

Aidan

[stona]

Xtracrylix is supposed to dry to a gloss finish,or at least satiny,not matt.

As you say you can sort that out with your final varnish.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Looking good straight edges are pretty safe much better then doing something like this...

Sent from my GT-S5670 using Tapatalk 2

[Guest]

Me again!

I've sprayed the light blue and have masked the blue areas before spraying the second colour. Once I have sprayed the second colour, should I then apply matt varnish, before I mask and add the third colour? I'm thinking about protecting the existing paint scheme.

Thanks

Aidan