Glueing?

[Guest]

Just looking at Vaughan's amazing quality build. Like the rest of you guys, the finish of the work is exemplar.

I've been doing modelling for a couple of years now and I believe my assembly, my gap filling, my glueing of unpainted parts and my airbrushing are now acceptable.

The problem I still have is glueing painted parts together. For example a tiny arial into the top of a fuselage. The fuselage has been painted one colour, the arial another - I use Tamiya extra thin and this only casues the paints to melt. So I swap to CA. But that's not easy to use (at least for me).

Are there any techniques that you experts could please share on how to attach tiny painted parts to other painted parts please? (or for that matter, any size parts)

Thanks

Aidan

[Guest]

Been going about the same time as you Aidan & have as all modellers got my own sequence of doing things. All small parts of different colour to the main colours plus anything which I know is going to be knocked off I shove in a box for later.

Mostly I apply CA glue. Some things using a thicker CA.

I use mostly an applicator that Scale Model Shop stocks. Scale Models Glue, Filler and Putty This is basically a forked s/s rod. The end like a sewing needle. The sewing needle stuck in a bit of wood used by a lot with the end nipped off. This forked part allows the CA to be picked up as a blob. Also have an applicator which has lost one prong which I have used for minor bits of CA. Need a shiny material to apply CA.

Most parts are male ended ie a rounded pole end which fit into the female part. I normally put gingerley into the hole a bit of CA making sure it does not stick out of the top trying to line the hole with CA. Place the aerial or the piece to be fitted slowly into the hole then there is less risk of pushing CA out of the joint. I use a magnifier to carry out the placing of the CA which gives a fair chance then of not damaging the paintwork.

Pieces which take weight landing gear etc I remove unseen paint when fitted rather than rely on the paint as the strength of the joint. One thing I have found is not to flood the joint with CA. A small amount will go off quicker & will not flood out of the joint.

I would not, unless circumstances prevail, put CA on the piece to be fitted as it then tends to well up out of the joint.

Use CA for aerial rigging. I dip the end in thin CA & using tweezers offer the end to either the fuselage or as in some circumstances another part of the rigging. In the other hand (o for 3 hands) I place a minute drop of CA accelerator on the joint. This makes an instant joint. Much care is needed with the accelerator as it will I have found stain paintwork. I use the implement with the single prong mentioned above and only enough accelerator to wet the prong. Also use the thicker gell CA to form the joint links, with a CA blob, where a metal jointer has been used. Looks authentic.

There is no magic in all this. All in all the success of CA is care & patience & using only just enough CA to do the job.

Final thought I put away the Tamiya Thin once I have started the painting bit. Paint & Tamiya Thin is like putting a male cat & dog in the same room. Disaster.

Laurie

[Guest]

Lot's of great advice there Laurie - as always. Many thanks.

Aidan

[Ian M]

Another good paint safe glue are PVA types. Gator Grip or Micro scales Kristal Klear both pretty much the same.

The good thing, sometimes, is the slow drying time. This can however be a handicap. The real good news is that while wet, any surplus can be washed away with a drop of water and a cotton bud.

I have yet to experience it leaving marks. It is also one of the safer glues for clear parts, canopies, windows, etc.

Ian M

[Guest]

Thanks Ian - I'd never considered using Kristal Klear. Makes sense, as you say, if drying time is not an issue.

My current build - the ME109 is one I'm trying to build perfectly. I guess that applies to all builds until I mess them up! Am anxious not to ruin it with glueing issues.

Aidan

[Guest]

One thing we have not mentioned Aidan.

Do not under any circumstances use CA on clear plastic parts if you want them to stay just that clear. CA fogs clear plastic.

Laurie

[Guest]

Thanks laurie - I have the ME109 canopy to do in three sections. It fills me with trepidation. But cerrainly CA will not be seen anywhere near the canopy bits!

Aidan