Fixing aerials

[Dave W]

I've just spent a really frustrating evening fixing an aerial wire on my Airfix Hurricane.I normally use nylon fishing line for this job.Ive tried stretched sprue which I can stretch ok.But I've only got to look at it and it breaks.Getting the fishing line to stick to plastic and remain under tension is a real pain. I bought some super glue at Telford that claims to bond instantly .

But it wouldn't bond and I ended up using my usual Loctite superglue which eventually did the job.I always remove the paint from the plastic,so that's not the problem.I also tried to fix part of the undercarriage with this Rocket glue.That was a plastic to plastic join and it wouldn't do it.A waste of £4 I reckon.My next build has a lot of resin parts.So I will give it another chance before I chuck it in the bin.

[Guest]

I find with any cyno that you need an accelerator to get instant grip.

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I used to use fishing line but now swapped to Knitting in thread, its like another product called EZ Line, a favourite amongst WWI aircraft builders for the rigging. I never had a problem with it going off within a few secs but you could dip one end in an accelerator as Graham says then it will cure instantly.

Adrian

[stona]

I find with any cyno that you need an accelerator to get instant grip.

Bingo!

Also that glue you showed is super thin which is difficult to manage. I use a medium viscosity version which is easier to get (and keep) in the correct place.

I use the glue you posted for other things and it really capillates down seams etc like water. I succesfully attached my thumb to the bottom of an engine nacelle with it recently! I wasn't expecting it to have run so far.

Cheers

Steve

[Dave W]

I used to use super glue Gel for this job.Will have to get some more.Perhaps i was expecting too much from the Rocket.I expect it will be ok for sticking resin on my next build,the Classic Airframes Anson.

[Guest]

I use Women's knicker elastic thread which works perfectly with C/A be it thick medium or thin. It does have a realtive rough surface compared to fishing line. Problem I see with fishing line is if accidently hit it twangs off. With elastic thread you have some resilience.

Not tried nylon fishing line. But can see a problem. If you look at the brushes on bottles of thin Tamiya & Mr ? then they look remarkable like nylon fishing line & are not affected by the glue (or solvent in fact). Ssume it is the impervious surface of the plastic material used.

C/A does not like very shiny smooth surfaces such as fishing line & smooth plastic surfaces. Due to there being little grip for it. So I suspect that if you abrade gently the very end of the fishing line you wish to glue with C/A you will get a superior joint. Accelerator does immediately harden the glue which is a boon. But I have often wondered if a natural "going off" of C/A gives a stronger bond. But that is speculation.

Another problem with aerials is they are last on the model & you rely on paint for the strength of the bond. Tried a couple of time a small hole in the plastic, not always possible with thin edges, but this has provided a better & more satisfactory joint.

Laurie

[Dave W]

I will get he wife to buy me some of that elastic.Been thinking about using it for a while.Im holding off building my TamiyaSwordfish untill i find a suitable rigging material.

[stona]

Like Laurie I try to attach into a small hole (drilled) or a fine groove in the top of a mast (cut/filed).

You can tighten monofilament fishing line aerials by passing something hot close,but not too close,to the line. I use a hot spatula.

Steve

[Guest]

Im holding off building my TamiyaSwordfish untill i find a suitable rigging material.

Dave you are not going to find it.

A most difficult one Dave. I asked the Fleet Air Arm Museum in the Yeovilton Somerset about the size of the rigging which I thought to be round. Below is the reply they gave. Very nice of them I found they normally charge for the service so I was lucky. Though they have had some of my dough as Pauline & I have been there twice & a great museum it is.

I am using after considerable thought the photo etched set by Tamiya. Probably the closest you will get unless you fashioned some metal one some how.But I was worried I would make a mess of a superb model. Get it Dave it is a superb model. Very beautifully detailed & you need lots of thought to tackle it in a sequence & not as the instructions. So far it has gone together almost perfectly (the model not my building skills).

Apologies Moderator (Ian) for digressing but only a little bit aye.

Dear Mr Stewart

Further to Rachael’s email, I attach the only images we have here that may assist you. The colour scheme is: Extra Dark Sea Grey, Dark Slate Grey upper surfaces with white undersurfaces and sides. The diagram shows a later 816 Swordfish. I believe that the colour scheme is the same, just with the addition of invasion stripes.

I have measured the wires on our Swordfish (I am told they are known as RAF wires). You asked for a diameter, but the wires are flat. They measure circa 24 mm. I had problems deciding just how many mm, then turned the ruler round. They measure ¾ of an inch.

That’s the best we can do.

Yours sincerely

Barbara Gilbert

Archivist

Colours are for HMS Tracker Dave.

[Dave W]

Thanks very much for the info. I remember reading it in your build thread. Ive already got the kit but it didnt include the rigging set.I understand this is an item you have to buy seperate.I notice the kit has locating slots moulded in it to accept the PR rigging.I will have to order the rigging set from Hannants :

[Guest]

Thanks very much for the info. I remember reading it in your build thread. Ive already got the kit but it didnt include the rigging set.I understand this is an item you have to buy seperate.I notice the kit has locating slots moulded in it to accept the PR rigging.I will have to order the rigging set from Hannants :

You will have to drill all the rigging slots Dave. The precise centres are on the inside of the wings. Touch of the Tamiyas here all so very well planned. You are probably aware but best is to drill with a fine drill from the inside then drill back with the size required. Amazing they actually give the drill size. Gives a nice neat hole to avoid break away of the plastic.

Think the slots you have seen are the main spars and they fit perfectly.

Laurie