Hi folks. I want to fix a piece of foil to the back of a clear piece for a light fitting. As the foil is shiny and smooth and I don't want to fog the clear part, I'm struggling to work out the best glue to use. Can anyone help?
Gern
Gern
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If it were me I would coat the clear part with Klear first, a coule of coats left 24hrs to dry fully, then use a CA ( super glue ) I dont think you will have any issues with fogging then. I dont get fogging when doing this to attach PE parts to canopies.
Adrian -
I would use a quick grab PVA for both. No risk and plenty of drying time.Comment
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Dave I use a jewellers glue to fix cockpits canopies etc. Called G-S Hypo Cement.
I would first have an experiment to see if it works. Spread thinly over the clear suface to hopefullu not get any marks between the glue bits & not glue bits.
LaurieComment
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simple is best in this situation in my opinion.
thin layer of PVA will suffice leaving to dry overnightComment
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Ive used Canopy Glue Dave. This is fantastic for Glueing Litho Plated, its about the best there is for that job and it dries clear. Im sure all of the others would work well to. Id be wanting to try it on something first. Once this is stuck, its stuck.
AndyComment
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Im with the others dave -Thin coat of PVA and slap it on , BOSH!! job done , cheers tonyComment
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Does PVA stick to metal well ?
My experience is that it is a very brittle glue mainly as it loses its body in a high percentage as the water dries out. This leaves a high percentage of the pieces not in contact with the glue. This can lead to a patchy finish especially viewed through clear parts.
This is were Araldite Resin & most other two parts products & recenty a number of one part types are such good glues as they loose very little of their body when drying.
LaurieComment
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PVA glue will stick most things, and better than you think to be honest ... preparation is the key.
I think people use too much glue as they think it will need it due to the reasons Laurie mentioned (ie drying out etc) and the fact that its thin and watery etc. This could be the reason you see so many comments about fogging, oozing out of joints and making a mess etc
If you can manage to "clamp" any bits you are sticking together (or obtain pressure to the joint in any way) this will be ideal, i'd use half the amount of glue you think you'll need
and leave overnight to set.
Comment
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Any acrylic PVA type of glue,plus Colin's good advice.
SteveComment
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Just to be pedantic. Have I ever been ?
There are now PVA glues which are coloured for furniture making & also Carpenters Yellow. They will of course cure with that colour.
Buy PVA in most places you will get white sometimes yellow. But in a builders merchant they may stock the range so care is needed.
Just to add to what I mentioned above. PVA is basically a paper & carpenters glue where the surfaces are porous & the glue with its water base seeps into the fibres & produces a good joint. In none porous surfaces there is no way for it to properly bond. I know for my Architectural work that PVA was not allowed in any circumstances where structural integrity was required. In model terms this applies where you have a joint which relies on the glue giving strength unless the surface is porous.
LaurieComment
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You are quite correct in your points about PVA glues but my experience with models is different.
I have stuck canopies on for years using acrylate polymer adhesives,of which PVA is one, and they are certainly bonded. I recently prised one of an old Me 262 which I was using as a paint tester (with Dave (Gern) ) and it was actually extremely hard to remove. Luckily it didn't matter if I broke other bits off in the effort.
I've also been sticking foil to oleo pistons (the shiny bit of the undercarriage leg for the non aircraft modellers) with Gator's Grip and have never had it come off or discolour.
Those nutters who make a bare metal finish by foiling entire aircraft also usually use this type of adhesive.
Cheers
SteveComment
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