P.E Problem

[Dave W]

I've got some tiny P.E parts that would add the finishing touches to my Anson.

Problem is I know from experience that if I try glueing them to the model I will mess it up.Sound defeatist?.Normally I won't let anything beat me.But I've put so much work into this model I don't want to ruin it.Id like to know how this fine detail that I see in magazines and at shows is done.If I'd glued it on before painting I know most of it would have got knocked off.i thought I'd attach it all after painting and before the final matt clear.But I tried holding a couple of parts on the model with tiny specs of superglue.But they wouldn't stay on.So I've reluctantly had to admit defeat.So come on chaps.How do you do it?.How do you achieve modelling perfection?!.

[flyjoe180]

I'd be interested in the PE secrets too!

[Guest]

That's a really good question Dave. I have a tendancey to leave those fine parts off because they can ruin it. More glue than part!

Aidan

[Guest]

I'm very much a newbie at this, but I have to admit I like dabbling with a bit of PE. So far, I've found that giving the part some form of positive location ( where possible ) really helps a lot. I try to plan how I'm going to apply the part as much as possible before hand and use sharpened cocktail sticks to apply glue. One problem is actually holding the parts, and I'm going to try modifying some tweezers to see if that helps things. Having said all this, I've only been working in 1/72, and half the time it's tricky to even see the buggering things, and thats before they ping off into never-never land!!

I'd love to hear how it should be done.

Cheers, Neil

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I have a small pair of ladies tweezers for holding the parts and I apply tiny amounts of CA glue by using fishing line, dip it in a spot and you get a small amount to work with on the end,,,, saying that half the time I either end up knocking bits off in the end or throwing a paddy fit and leaving some off

Adrian

[Guest]

1-Fit part with a tiny amount of cyano

2-Wait for glue to go off

3-Flood the joint with plenty of cyano

4-See step 2

5-Carefully scrape away any unwanted glue

My etch generally doesn't get knocked off, I think you get used to handling models that have delicate parts after a while

[Guest]

Dave I do more or less the same procedure as Andy. But as soon as I have applied the C/A I use accelerator to send the stuff off in mili seconds.

Problem is if you stick to paint you rely on the paints strength. Good reason for using primer.

Second C/A is not a strong bond especially to shiny surfaces such as PE. If you can have a small hole in the plastic part where the P/E is to be fixed that I have found provides a better joint. Just fill the hole with C/A.

Next is not to get any where near the P/E after fixing as refixing comes into its own.

Also used Locktites (spelling not quite correct) thicker C/A which seems to give a better old in some cases.

Laurie

[Guest]

I like using ca glue most of the time for my aircraft builds. However I found while doing motorcycles that 30 min epoxy works great,it gives me enough time to work with the pe and is thin enough you do'nt get the build up ca can give . Once its cured the grip on the pe is really secure as well. hope that helps cheers,Trey

[Guest]

Another tip with very small parts that are flat on rather than on edge is to use a good white glue like Gator Grip rather than superglue. It dries very hard, unlike PVA which it resembles and very clear, great for clear parts, lamp lenses, canopies etc. It allows you time to move the part into position and then wipe any excess off with a damp cotton bud. If it is edge on though, this can be tricky as the drying time is so long.

Have to admit that if the part is so small to be almost hidden when painted, I don't bother with it. Some PE is almost as though it is for the sake of it rather than adding real detail. PE grab handles are a great example on tanks, they should be round and a piece of thin bent wire is more appropriate than a flat shape in PE.

[Guest]

So right Graham.

50% of the PE is now in the future spares collection box.

One thing with using Gaytor glue for the first time. It must have originally been a joint glue as it does expand rather like that polystrene hole filler in a squirt can. Just use a thin layer I found to be OK.

Laurie

[Ian M]

Andygh has it nailed. And I agree with Graham on the Gator Glue. Great stuff.

So that has the sticking sorted, here are a few tips on handling the stuff.

Buy a quality pair of tweezers, John has some great ones in the shop. The reason most things go pinging off into space is either due to the tweezers twisting, or gripping things to hard.

So good tweezers and a gentle touch.

Cut the parts on a hard flat surface, a bit of hardened glass, glazed tile or the like. Use a rounded blade knife and roll the blade through the attachment point. Keep a (clean) finger on the part to stop it pinging off when you cut it from the fret.

Two things CA don't stick. grease and water. (It don't stick CA that well either....). So avoid greasy fingers. Wet the tweezers, just so they are damp, we don't want water every where.

For handling the glue, I use a bit of wire. Others use a fork made from a sewing needle with the top half of the eye cut off. stick the pointy end in a cork. It makes it so my easier to pick up.

Take the part in the wetted tweezers, hold it in place. Take a ting drop of CA on the pin and touch it to the part/kit join. If you can do it a place it don't show all the better. Tricky bit: Hold it still for a couple of seconds. Job done.

One thing to consider before buying and using a load of PE is this: Do I need it. Kits these days have so much fine detail that half the time its not really needed. Some older kits do kinda scream out for it though.

Ian M

[Dave W]

Thanks everyone for all your replies.I already use a needle with part of the fork end cut off to apply glue.But sticking the pointy end in a cork to make it easier to handle is a great idea Ian.Ive got the cutting part sussed as well.But I definitely need some new tweezers.The three pairs I have are long overdue for replacement.And the Gator glue sounds like it might be just what I need as I understand any spillages can be removed easily.Thanks again everyone.Guess I will just have to keep trying.

[mossiepilot]

Thanks for starting your thread Dave, I've got a 1/48 seahawk with PE parts and I must admit the PE is the one thing that has stopped me starting it.

Cheers for all the tips guys.

Tony.

[Guest]

I have yet to think about using PE, but I would consider using Evostick. It is stick enough to hod a part while it is positioned, taking about 10 minutes to set, and is never rock hard even when fully set - just slightly flexible enough to prevent the part from being knocked off.