Scribing failure

[Guest]

After practicing on some gash parts with my new Tamiya scriber ("P scriber" I think it is called) I re-scribed one panel line on each of my current models, a 1/72 and a 1/48 Spitfire — the line that goes up, across and down across the top front of the fuselage in front of the cockpit. The lines had been sanded out as I filed the seam.They looked awful — uneven width and depth, and the scribed line wandered a bit. Both models were potentially ruined but I have now filled the re-scribings with Mr. Surfacer 500 and sanded and they are gone.

Phil Flory makes scribing look simple but I certainly have not got the hang of it. I was using Dymo tape as a guide and didn't press too hard.

Is re-scribing difficult? How many people just put up with the inevitable disappearance of some panel lines?

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

Its just practice I'm afraid, I do the same as you and just build up the depth till its correct, but from time to time I will slip or make a mistake, least its easy enough to repair and start over.

Adrian

[Dave W]

It takes a bit of practise,lots of patience and a steady hand.You need to press very lightly on the model with the scriber and go over the same line several times until you get the depth you want.Ive got some thin brass strips that I use as guides.I hold or tape them to the model and scribe along side them.Ive completely rescribed 5 or 6 models and still make the odd mistake.I fill the mistakes in with Squadron green filler as it only needs one application.Ive got some Mr Surfacer 500 but find it needs several coats to fill anything but the tiniest defect.

[yak face]

Welcome to my world steve!!!! I'm in the same boat as you matey , i hate it! I can never seem to get a straight line either , i'm always repairng little slips or wonky lines. Ive been experimenting with all sorts to see if one type suits me better than another but im rubbish with them all so far!!Ive got an OLFA 'P' cutter which is identical to the Tamiya one like yours , and I find that VERY difficult to use , most of the time i use a pointed scriber , intended for scribing metal. Oh well we have to keep trying , one day when ive found the perfect tool i'll let you know!! cheers tony

[Dave W]

I've got an Olfa 'P' cutter and a Tamiya scriber.The Olfa is a lot bigger than the Tamiya and won't get into tight areas.So I don't use it anymore.A sharp needle held in a pin vice works well in tight areas.

[Guest]

This sounds just like my work. I'm a jewller and use those sort of tools every day. And as above... practice, practice and practice!

Pascal

[Guest]

Thanks folks. I can do straight lines on flat plastic perfectly, but the ones that I need to rescribe are, of course, the ones crossing the seams of the fuselage. I will try the pin method, or perhaps experiment with a hot table knife which, (apart from requiring the correct temperature on a cooker ring) would raise ridges, but they could be sanded out (lightly!)

Or just do without rescribing.

[Guest]

You're not the only one, Steve. I hate re-scribing and have ruined one good model with wonky lines even though I'm using a straight edge! And then there are the curves.............forget about it! lol

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

The Airfix 109 had raised lines so I had a go at rescribing them today, its taken a little work and a couple of bits of filler but its turned out nice enough I think.

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Adrian

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[Ian M]

I have been playing with my new tamiya P cutter, Which are made by Olfa. !

I found that even using the "thick" or original Dymo tape its a bit thin. so I doubled up. That helps. But I agree its not as easy as they make it look.

I have before used a scalpel blade, just the back. That works OK and can get in tiny corners as well.

For the time being, I'll stick to strait lines as well.

I'll steer clear of the hot knife though...

Ian M

[Guest]

The Airfix 109 had raised lines so I had a go at rescribing them today, its taken a little work and a couple of bits of filler but its turned out nice enough I think.Adrian

That's really good. I am envious. Your success means I will have to try even harder!

I need a lot of plastic to practice on. The ideal would be a length of polystyrene pipe but I don't think it is conveniently available at a good price. Perhaps 1 inch water pipe (its PVC) might be suitable.

Heigh Ho! I have just found some 1 inch polythene water pipe in the garage and it seems to behave under the scriber in the same way as polystyrene and is the correct size and curvature for a fuselage. I have managed to scribe a line about 2 inches long which looks good. I have found that for that length of line it needs to be done in three stages, moving the scriber (and the dymotape guide *) round the curve. This seems to be because the angle between the handle of the scriber and the surface of the plastic needs to be fairly exact.

* This can done accurately by placing the scriber blade in the end of the scribed line just made and moving the tape up to it.

There seems to be progress!

[Dave W]

Keep at it Steve.You will get there in the end.