Sheds

[Adrian "Marvel" Reynolds]

I'm not sure what your budget is but have you consider a metal shed?

I found this site but there are loads more out there.

Metal Sheds | Shedstore

I have a 10x13 foot metal shed laid on a concrete base, I fitted it out with wooden flooring had someone wire it up to the electricity for me and added a load of shelving units and a work bench to do my modelling in during the summer. It has two locks, a motion sensor light and alarm fitted just incase

[ATTACH]66589.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]66590.vB[/ATTACH][ATTACH]66591.vB[/ATTACH]

Adrian

[ATTACH]67657.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]67658.IPB[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]67659.IPB[/ATTACH]

[Ian M]

All the good points have been covered so its only really down to the chat now.

Yes an alarm will deter the casual thief. But if it just makes a noise and has no connection to a security firm, a quick smack with a hammer will be enough for those that "earn a living" from other peoples property.

Our shed is connected to the alarm on the house. The last time the postman leaned up against the door, I got a call from the rent a cop and was home to investigate. They to had been by to have a look. Nothing was nicked so it must of just been a false alarm. Point is it worked...(?)

The truth is that what ever you do to make your shed or house more secure if the buggers want to get in they will. The best way to keep them out is not having things laying about that can be seen from the windows.

As Colin pointed out, and a policeman will tell you, the game is make your house more secure than the one next door and you will be OK.

If you are building a wooded shed, before you put the outside covering on (Recommend plywood sheet, screwed on) re-bar netting, yes the stuff they use in cast concrete, will prevent even a chainsaw cutting a hole in the wall.

If you put bars in the window, use tube instead. just put a hard steel bar lose inside. If they try cutting the "bars" in the window once they get through the pipe, and hit the solid bar, it will just spin round and act as a roller preventing them from sawing through! :-)

I like colins idea, build it bigger and use it as a kennel for the pet wolves...

Ian M

[Guest]

I find the inside roof on my metal shed terrible for condensation. Wooden ones are much warmer in the winter and both are really hot during the summer if in direct sunlight.

[Guest]

Lots of great ideas, like the tube on the window idea

[Alan 45]

Now this might be out of your price range but its the best deterant I've ever heard about.

A bloke in America was so fed up of people breaking into his garden shed ( lock up they called it ) that he bought a large German Shepard , he put up signs saying caution I live hear then cut a hole large enough for the dog but hears the clever bit he fitted sencers to the outside of it and put a recording of a large dog growling inside , you get the idea when the sencers were tripped the recording started , he was never broken into again.

[ojays]

Many years ago after having my lock up garage broken into twice.

I rigged up a wooden batten (10"x2"x 6foot) that would swing forward about head height when the side door was opened. It really worked well.

Spent 2hrs in A&E getting 3 stitches in my forehead when I forgot I had set it up the night before!:fool:

Gregg

[Guest]

My workshop that you have seen is around 20ft x 10ft and is made of shiplap. I was designed originally as a gym when I built it but now has a better use. There is as you would imagine - thousand of pounds worth of equipment in there and it is hooked into the main house alarm.

My tip.

To build a strong shed at a fraction of the cost and made securely it is best to build it out off 12mm thick shuttering ply thicker if you can afford it, these come in 8ft x 6ft or 8ft x 4ft sheets. This is cheaper and more stronger than any tongue and grove and can be built in no time at all. The thicker the ply the better. Once built you have 2 options. 1. Treat with timber care to the desired colour or 2. For that special effect you can seal it with PVA cover in rendering mesh and render and paint it. Looks the business.

Now for security:

Get yourself a cheap bell transformer a Key switch a alarm door contact and a cheap set of air horns wire this to the door which will be the only way in due to the strong structured walls and bobs your uncle.

Cheers

Andy

[Guest]

Using a steel shed siliconed down on pavers works very well with triple padlock locks

[Guest]

A thought: a shed will be very cold in winter, so some type of heating will be needed, which implies thermal insulation, although 3 inch sheets of expanded polystyrene are fairly cheap, and your local big store will have lots of free big pieces of washing machine etc. polystyrene packaging. For economical heating, you could consider a radiant heater (more economical than a convector), and/or a small electric blanket for on your back and under the essentials, and a woolly hat, mittens, snow boots.... Or a convector heater under the bench to waft heat up to the aforementioned essentials which I have under my bench in the loft.

[Guest]

I would be careful about using the loftspace for modeling,with a tongue and grove chipboard floor you will get flexing which at the least will cause cracking in the ceilings at worst it can bring part of them down. A chipboard floor is OK for storing (lightweight items) but not continuous movement.

I am also looking to use my shed for modelling as soon as my son installs the electrics only been waiting since last year to be fair he did build it for me. This has prompted a related question about modelling in sheds has anyone had problems storing acrylic paint outside? I seem to remember it should not be stored below freezing,thats certainly the case with household emulsions and don't ask me how I know!

Malcolm

[Guest]

I would be careful about using the loftspace for modeling,with a tongue and grove chipboard floor you will get flexing which at the least will cause cracking in the ceilings at worst it can bring part of them down. A chipboard floor is OK for storing (lightweight items) but not continuous movement.I am also looking to use my shed for modelling as soon as my son installs the electrics only been waiting since last year to be fair he did build it for me. This has prompted a related question about modelling in sheds has anyone had problems storing acrylic paint outside? I seem to remember it should not be stored below freezing,thats certainly the case with household emulsions and don't ask me how I know!

Malcolm

But you can (I think) get flooring grade chipboard.

[Guest]

I think you can to 18 or 22mm thick I think. You can buy it in wickes.

[Ian M]

...... Or a convector heater under the bench to waft heat up to the aforementioned essentials which I have under my bench in the loft.

What a strange place to keep your "essentials" LOL

Ian M

[Ian M]

You will be fine converting the loft space and using flooring grade chip board. If the rafters are to far apart, you can add extra and to prevent flexing insert Noggings (?) between them these will stiffen the joists both ways and the ceiling below should be fine.

Remember to make access hatches for any electrical junction/lighting roses.

Ian M

[Guest]

I cannot get into my loft because of the strange shape of my roof which is why I am thinking about building a shed lol.