Glossing half way through?

[Guest]

Hello

Am working on a 1/48 spifire and have just finished the camouflage of the fuselage and wings (as one). I did the painting before adding the small bits which may be knocked off (wheels, guns, arials etc) So I can handle the model to add all the other bits, I'm keen to do the glossing of the plane (so far), and then add the small bits. When all is added I'd add the decals and spray with matt.

Can anyone see any issues with this please?

Thanks

[aaron]

Sounds like a plan. It's a good idea to gloss to protect your paint work. Hope we get some pics of your spittie.

[Guest]

That is my usual procedure Aidan.

Just one point learned through bitter exerience. If you have taken the masking off your cockpit canopy mask the whole thing up before gloss varnishing. The canopy framework will gloss up which you do not want & also not sure what the gloss varnish will do ie dull the transparent plastic ? My mistake was in my final coat matt varnishing I forgot to mask & matt varnished the whole canopy. Age for you you see.

Laurie

[Guest]

That is my usual procedure Aidan.Just one point learned through bitter exerience. If you have taken the masking off your cockpit canopy mask the whole thing up before gloss varnishing. The canopy framework will gloss up which you do not want & also not sure what the gloss varnish will do ie dull the transparent plastic ? My mistake was in my final coat matt varnishing I forgot to mask & matt varnished the whole canopy. Age for you you see.

Laurie

Sound advice Laurie - thank you. I'm worried about gloosing it in preparation for decals. I never do. I see so many brilliant models, pictured on this forum, and many have an unrealistic sheen to them. I've never been successful in adding matt to a gloss varnished finish, with a vew to returning to the original matt.

Worried!

[stona]

It's pretty much what I do too.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Aidan it is best to gloss up for your decals as you get rid of the dreaded silvering. Returning to matt from gloss is very easy. I use Vallejo Gloss & Matt airbrushed. The matt is magic as it comes up more matt than the original matt paint finish. I you have accidently missed piece just airbrush that bit in.

Laurie

[Guest]

Sound advice Laurie - thank you. I'm worried about gloosing it in preparation for decals. I never do. I see so many brilliant models, pictured on this forum, and many have an unrealistic sheen to them. I've never been successful in adding matt to a gloss varnished finish, with a vew to returning to the original matt.Worried!

In my two models (1/72 and 1/48 Spitfires) I have gloss varnished (Tamiya Clear Glossy) the whole model before decalling (because of advice to avoid silvering), then coated with matt varnish (Tamiya Clear Flat), both by airbrush. I have had no problems (although with both varnishes I always found that I had to hold the nozzle no more than about 3 inches from the model, otherwise the varnish didn't go on (probably just dried in the air before hitting the model). (20 PSI, 0.4 mm nozzle, about 10% thinning.) The finish is what I think is a nice matt, and the canopy (fully masked up to the end) looks good.

On "the small bits which may be knocked off", I am leaving all of them (and there are lots) to the last on my 1/72 Lancaster. When painting is finished I will clear out the sockets that will have filled with paint (drilling with a small bit) then use poly glue (not the wicking thin-as-water type) because its drying time allows for setting the model bits in the correct position. I suspect that it will not be long before the tiniest bits will be knocked off even with careful handling.

[Guest]

Thanks to all who responded, especially Laurie and Steve. I have Vallejo gloss varnish in stock but will need to order the matt. I have one further question please: How much clear varnish would I apply? This may sound like a daft question but to me it's not. When spraying a colour one can tell how much to apply by the colour depth and the coating and finish. I suppose I'm asking how much coating is required before applying decals. A lot, a little?

Thanks, as always to you all who share your wisdom and expertise.

[Guest]

Aidan. If you are going to airbrush Valljo & you thin then you will need more coats.

I use a .4needle nozzle at about 20 psi Harder & Steinbeck airbrauh. With this combination I put on two coats of gloss. The first, depending on temperatures, I may thin say 10 to 15% (I do not measure I just squirt into the cup approx.) The second coat I make sure I get good coverage. But on parts where to get in you are putting on a thick coat on already sprayed parts I wait an hour for the coat to dry(ish) before attempting the perhaps difficult to get at bits otherwise you get runs. If I have been a bit heavy with the varnish I get a B & Q decorators wet rag & wipe the run & surrounding varnsih away & then immediatly spray a thin coat over the wiped area & you will not see any tide mark so to speak.

Should be able to tell by eye with both gloss & matt when you have sufficient coverage. You will tell with the matt as said before it is matt matt.

Warning. After finishing air brushing with out any delay clean the airbrush as if you do not you will spend a long time getting dried clogged varnish off. Do I not know that !!!!. These varnished dry fast. I normally for the paints use clear water. For the varnishes I use Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner which is a superb liquid for cleaning all their products. I also for the varnish gently ream out the nozzle to make sure you get rid of every evidence of varnish.

Matter of interest I have trid vanish with the above set up with a.2 needle & nozzle & it clogs the airbrush in seconds.

And this is the end of my meandering !

Laurie

[Guest]

Aidan. If you are going to airbrush Valljo & you thin then you will need more coats.A. I use a .4needle nozzle at about 20 psi Harder & Steinbeck airbrauh.

B. Should be able to tell by eye with both gloss & matt when you have sufficient coverage. You will tell with the matt as said before it is matt matt.

C. Warning. After finishing air brushing with out any delay clean the airbrush as if you do not you will spend a long time getting dried clogged varnish off. Do I not know that !!!!. These varnished dry fast. I normally for the paints use clear water. For the varnishes I use Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner which is a superb liquid for cleaning all their products. I also for the varnish gently ream out the nozzle to make sure you get rid of every evidence of varnish.

D. Matter of interest I have trid vanish with the above set up with a.2 needle & nozzle & it clogs the airbrush in seconds.

And this is the end of my meandering !

Laurie

I use acrylics exclusively.

A. Me too. I also thin to 10% or 15% (Vallejo Airbrush thinner).

B. I use Tamiya "Clear Gloss". For some reason I have to hold the airbrush nozzle no more than about 2 inches away to get any coverage at all, otherwise the varnish seems to dry and blow away before it reaches the model. I pull the trigger out a good way to get a good flow. Also, I normally do only one coat, watching it go on with reflections against the light until it is really wet and shiny. But if you spray too much it will pool although it is surprising how deep in can be without adverse effect, but runs spoil the job. Beware of wing roots. Varnish pools there, probably because it being a 90 degree area, the spray in confined. Do that area more quickly (as to movement of the airbrush).

I have tried doing two coats (the first much less thick) but have not found any difference.

My theory is that you must make a gloss coat (or the last gloss coat if more than one) thick and wet enough for the droplets to coalesce into a continuous film before it will become glossy.

I use Tamiya "Clear Flat" for the very last coat. It does not need so thick a coat, about the same as with a colour coat. Spray to the beginning of wetness. You can easily spray more immediately, or later. It will look slightly granular until dry but that's OK.

Practice on gash plastic is the key. Use 2 litre Sainsbury or ASDA lemonade bottles. Colour coat them with a darkish colour (no need to prime), then practice varnishing. Plastic milk bottles are not so goo d because they have a slightly rough surface.

C. I agree. Varnish is probably designed to provide a hard surface. (But I would hesitate to ream out the nozzle with any item having any metal in it. I use the tiny bottle brushes (plastic bristles) sold for the purpose.)

D. I have never used a 2 mm needle, but I think Laurie is correct. Especially with gloss varnish, and matt also I think. One factor is that varnish being clear, it cannot be easily seen blocking the nozzle and other parts. (I always look through the nozzle with an eyeglass, after sucking out any remaining liquid (cleaner) to confirm a clear inside.)

BTW, I will probably change to Vallejo varnish, 'cos I like Vallejo products.

On your (ACB99) question about how much varnish to apply before decalling, in theory I think it should be a full gloss coat (as above), at least that's what the experts say, so I stick with that. (The problem is to prevent silvering caused by trapped water in the tiny surface crevices of a matt varnish). For my two models I have not had any silvering problems.

I found airbrushing gloss needed more practice than any other airbrushing job.

[Guest]

Give Vallejo varnish a go Steve. Not found any of the problems you speak off. Spray at about 6" from the model with out a problem.

With a reamer Steve you will get those little bits out of the nozzle which are the cause of most blockages with airbrushing. Being using s reamer for 3 years & not had any problems. Just rest the reamer in the nozzle & the tip will project from the bottom of the nozzle. Do not put any downward pressure on the nozzle & just gently turn the reamer in the nozzle. Then wash & look thro the orifice on to a white well lit back ground & you should, if all is clean, see a nice round hole. You just can not get a brush down into the bottom of the nozzle & that is the part you need absolutely free.

Should have added as soon as I have stripped the airbrush I plunge & leave the nozzle & protective shield in a small container of Vallejo Air brush cleaner.

Laurie

[Guest]

Laurie and Steve, thank you again for these detailed expositions. I'm most grateful and am sure that others, as well me, will find them useful. I'll let you know how I get on.

Best wishes

[Guest]

Give Vallejo varnish a go Steve. Not found any of the problems you speak off. Spray at about 6" from the model with out a problem.With a reamer Steve you will get those little bits out of the nozzle which are the cause of most blockages with airbrushing. Being using s reamer for 3 years & not had any problems. Just rest the reamer in the nozzle & the tip will project from the bottom of the nozzle. Do not put any downward pressure on the nozzle & just gently turn the reamer in the nozzle. Then wash & look thro the orifice on to a white well lit back ground & you should, if all is clean, see a nice round hole. You just can not get a brush down into the bottom of the nozzle & that is the part you need absolutely free.

Should have added as soon as I have stripped the airbrush I plunge & leave the nozzle & protective shield in a small container of Vallejo Air brush cleaner.

Laurie

Thanks. I will bear this in mind. At the moment I use an interdental brush for the nozzle (a very narrow bottle brush for cleaning between teeth).

I also soak the nozzle parts in Vallajo Airbrush Cleaner. Apart from the first month of my learning to airbrush, I have had no blockages (but I am a bit obsessive about cleaning — I often use an ultrasonic cleaner).

[Guest]

Aidan it is best to gloss up for your decals as you get rid of the dreaded silvering. Returning to matt from gloss is very easy. I use Vallejo Gloss & Matt airbrushed. The matt is magic as it comes up more matt than the original matt paint finish. I you have accidently missed piece just airbrush that bit in.Laurie

Just finished adding the matt coat and you are right Laurie - the matt coat comes up duller than the original plastic. Amazing.

Thanks