B'day present! 1:32 Dragon Bf 110

[Guest]

I recently recieved a b'day present from a friend- it is a 1:32 Dragon Bf 110 it has photo etch parts and over 340 parts! new summer project...............

Any tips and hints on this model would be appreciated

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[aaron]

Happy birthday mate, i got one of my bucket list models for my birthday...i cant wait to tuck in. Hope you enjoy that kit it looks like it will build into a beaut...only tip i can offer is to maybe do a little research on reviews or blogs for that kit.

[Alan 45]

Happy birthday , that looks a beauty and it's big as well I'm insanely jealous

[eddiesolo]

Very nice, should build up into a cracking model, hope you had a great day John.

Si

[stona]

This is one that's on my list too.

I've read plenty of good reviews. I know one person who has built the kit and he said that he did have to make some adjustments to make the engine nacelles fit as he wanted but that's the only slightly negative thing I've heard about the kit.

Cheers

Steve

[yak face]

Happy birthday john, the only tip i can give you is enjoy making this, it looks like a beauty! I have been tempted by these in the past , it looks like a really nice bit of kit !! cheers tony

[BarryW]

I am building the C version now. The plastic is excellent, a good fit but you do need to be careful about the order of build and how you bring together the various sub-assemblies. You would be better off using after market seat belts, decals and the Quickboost exhausts. I don't know if they sorted the instructions out for the D but they are terrible for the C. I have found the Eduard 48 scale 110 a better guide to where pieces fit than Dragons (download able off the web). It also provides some interior paint call outs absent from the kit's instructions. I am enjoying the build a lot but you really do have to test fit all the way and not rely at all on anything in the instructions.

[Guest]

I am building the C version now. The plastic is excellent, a good fit but you do need to be careful about the order of build and how you bring together the various sub-assemblies. You would be better off using after market seat belts, decals and the Quickboost exhausts. I don't know if they sorted the instructions out for the D but they are terrible for the C. I have found the Eduard 48 scale 110 a better guide to where pieces fit than Dragons (download able off the web). It also provides some interior paint call outs absent from the kit's instructions. I am enjoying the build a lot but you really do have to test fit all the way and not rely at all on anything in the instructions.

I dont know but does the D version have the photo etch parts?

[monica]

sorry late reply happy b-day and enjoy your kit , and meany happy returns

[BarryW]

I dont know but does the D version have the photo etch parts?

I would be surprised if it does not have the seatbelt. The problem is it is very thick and far from well detailed. Eduard would be better but, of course a lot more fiddly.

I attach a couple of pics of my build at is was at the end of my session last night.

Some tips:

Some reviewers had problems fitting the cockpit tub. Do not build it as a tub. Glue the side walls to the fuselage (there are good locating pins) when it is all painted and ready fit the floor with the remaining interior to the side of the fuselage mated up to the floor. Dry fit it first then mate up the other fuselage half, taping the fuse halves together to hold them in the normal way. You can then fiddle and move the cockpit interior around until it all clicks into the right place - I found it a perfect fit. You can then use Tammy Extra Thin or Mr Cement S to glue the fuse halves together and the cockpit interior into place using capillary action.

There are some struts to glue into the wheel wells in the top half of the wing. be careful about getting them in the right order, the narrower 'base' being to the rear of the wing but that creates a problem of fitting the landing gear assembly into the wing. The landing gear assembly is complex and it is best fitting it together before fitting the floor to the wing. The problem is the front strut is a long one and is in the way of the landing gear. You will need to snip the tip off the strut to get the landing gear in past it. Don't worry nothing of the surgery will be seen on the completed kit.

The engines are not designed to be fitted with the access panels closed so I left out the engine assembly. Some reviewer had fit issues with the panels but if you leave the engines out and do it this way it will be problem free. Fit the panel to the rear of the exhausts to the lower wing first and before joining the wing halves and you will have a perfect fit. The top 'inner panel' can fit the top of the wing once the wings are joined, again perfectly.

I glued together the top and bottom engine panels and then glued into place a piece of plastic strip to give something for the exhausts to be attached to and to strengthen the assembly. I then painted and fitted some relevant pieces of the engine where there are gaps/holes in the underside so when looking at it there is not a yawning empty gap. The grill glues easily to the cowling and the bottom of the engine will easily glue to that. I then glued on some more pieces of plastic strip to make it easy to locate the assembly to the front of the wing - I did cut off two small tabs from the wing side as these were in the way and the fit is better without them.

One of the pictures show the engine casing assemblies ready to be fitted to the wing, the plastic card can be seen in white. I will fit them when I have filled a small gap in the front wing root. There will also be a small amount of filler needed in the bottom half of the engine casing assembly to wing join.

I will glue the props to the front of the engine casing.

Take a look at the pics...

I hope you enjoy the build as much as I am. It really is a great kit, shame about the instructions which, in the case of the C model can best be described as

'A rough guide to where most parts probably fit' and with the added warning 'the sub assemblies should not be taken too literally'.

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[Guest]

I would be surprised if it does not have the seatbelt. The problem is it is very thick and far from well detailed. Eduard would be better but, of course a lot more fiddly.I attach a couple of pics of my build at is was at the end of my session last night.

Some tips:

Some reviewers had problems fitting the cockpit tub. Do not build it as a tub. Glue the side walls to the fuselage (there are good locating pins) when it is all painted and ready fit the floor with the remaining interior to the side of the fuselage mated up to the floor. Dry fit it first then mate up the other fuselage half, taping the fuse halves together to hold them in the normal way. You can then fiddle and move the cockpit interior around until it all clicks into the right place - I found it a perfect fit. You can then use Tammy Extra Thin or Mr Cement S to glue the fuse halves together and the cockpit interior into place using capillary action.

There are some struts to glue into the wheel wells in the top half of the wing. be careful about getting them in the right order, the narrower 'base' being to the rear of the wing but that creates a problem of fitting the landing gear assembly into the wing. The landing gear assembly is complex and it is best fitting it together before fitting the floor to the wing. The problem is the front strut is a long one and is in the way of the landing gear. You will need to snip the tip off the strut to get the landing gear in past it. Don't worry nothing of the surgery will be seen on the completed kit.

The engines are not designed to be fitted with the access panels closed so I left out the engine assembly. Some reviewer had fit issues with the panels but if you leave the engines out and do it this way it will be problem free. Fit the panel to the rear of the exhausts to the lower wing first and before joining the wing halves and you will have a perfect fit. The top 'inner panel' can fit the top of the wing once the wings are joined, again perfectly.

I glued together the top and bottom engine panels and then glued into place a piece of plastic strip to give something for the exhausts to be attached to and to strengthen the assembly. I then painted and fitted some relevant pieces of the engine where there are gaps/holes in the underside so when looking at it there is not a yawning empty gap. The grill glues easily to the cowling and the bottom of the engine will easily glue to that. I then glued on some more pieces of plastic strip to make it easy to locate the assembly to the front of the wing - I did cut off two small tabs from the wing side as these were in the way and the fit is better without them.

One of the pictures show the engine casing assemblies ready to be fitted to the wing, the plastic card can be seen in white. I will fit them when I have filled a small gap in the front wing root. There will also be a small amount of filler needed in the bottom half of the engine casing assembly to wing join.

I will glue the props to the front of the engine casing.

Take a look at the pics...

I hope you enjoy the build as much as I am. It really is a great kit, shame about the instructions which, in the case of the C model can best be described as

'A rough guide to where most parts probably fit' and with the added warning 'the sub assemblies should not be taken too literally'.

Thanks mate! Great help. sorry! mistook the C for the D does the C version have the PE parts?

[papa 695]

The only suggestion i have John is send it round to my house so i can build it

Have fun building it and looking forward to the build thread

[BarryW]

John- yes it does but very limited, the seatbelts that are frankly not much good and a loop aerial - I am not too impressed by this and will use the plastic alternative that is in the box.

[BarryW]

Worth adding to what I said above, the nose assembly. I made up the machine guns fitting the ammo feeds in place as it helped line up the mgs perfectly. I then painted the gun barrels only as they are all that will be seen. This assembly fits perfectly (though tight) into the nose but I am leaving it all out to paint the nose first before fitting the MGs and then fitting the nose assembly will be part of the final fittings. The painting and weathering is easier that way.

[Guest]

can dragon replace parts? i got a slightly damaged part