GB not GB 1/72 BoB entry, Airfix Spitfire

[stona]

Looking good. Check Hannants again for sheets of code letters. They will do the standard RAF code letters in various colours for 1/72. You can stil use the kit roundels and other stencils. You'll get enough letters to build a whole wing of Spitfires!

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Check Hannants again for sheets of code letters. They will do the standard RAF code letters in various colours for 1/72. You can stil use the kit roundels and other stencils. You'll get enough letters to build a whole wing of Spitfires!Steve

Cheers Steve, I'll give Hannants another search after this weekend. Their search isn't the most intuitive.

See what I can find at Telford first!

[stona]

Their search isn't the most intuitive.

Very diplomatic! I think it's terrible. I always end up plowing through dozens of pages and if I narrow my search I get no results at all.

Cheers

Steve

[Ian M]

Hi Terry try some of these: Hannants - Plastic model kits and accessories=

Might be some thing there you could use.

Ian M

[Guest]

Update, underside and retracts painted with Tamiya Sky, almost had a minor disaster, i'd just glued the canopy on then realised that i'd not glued the gunsight in, :emo2:, fortunately managed to pry the canopy off, fit the gunsight and refit the canopy.No pics as i'm sure you all know what Tamiya sky looks like

[Guest]

Thanks Ian! I think MD052 will do nicely for it's Squadron ID. Just need to sort the registration.

Steve, I always (well, nearly always) try to be diplomatic. Far better to have a dysfunctional ally than a needed enemy!:gent:

Apologies to m1ks for high-jacking your thread!:kiss:

ps. does anyone know what size the real life lettering and roundels would have been, or a link to an appropriate source?

[Guest]

Apologies to m1ks for high-jacking your thread!:kiss:

No problem, all the responses just makes it look like more people are interested in my build

[Guest]

No problem, all the responses just makes it look like more people are interested in my build

It was my interest in your build that reminded me I have one as well!

It's always good to see how others do their model. Never too late to learn something!

[stona]

ps. does anyone know what size the real life lettering and roundels would have been, or a link to an appropriate source?

That is a trickier question than it appears. Initially 35" letters were common but these appeared very large on the Spitfire fuselage and 27" or 30" became more frequently used. Unless you have evidence of large letters I'd go for 27"/30" which will be virtually the same at 1/72 scale anyway.

The roundels! Very dependent on the period as they kept changing them. Here's a linky to a decent guide.

http://www.homepages.mcb.net/bones/01UKAV/roundels/RAF_Roundels.htm

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Update

Though i've not painted anymore yet, i've been looking at the wonky tailplane and rudder and it's been really really bugging me, I happened to read an article or letter or somesuch in a modelling mag I was reading, Either SAM or FSM, which mentioned immersing styrene in hot water to reshape it, this seemed a better and less destructive alternative to my original plan of using the hot air paint gun, (same principal different modes of transport), so even though i'd primed and painted the underside I thought i'd try it and if necessary could strip and respray.

Initially I held it over the steam of a kettle but this wasn't enough so i decanted a cup of water and dunked it, (like a beautifully aerodynamic digestive), tail first into the cup, it took about 5 insertions, removals and gentle twisting but the end result is a near as dammit straight tailplane and rudder and it makes me happier, It would have continued to irritate me I know.

The best bit, not a mark on the paint!

[Guest]

Update, I normally freehand british green/brown, green/grey camo laying it just where needed but decided I wanted a sharper edge on this one so gave it a coat of brown all over the upper surface after masking the underside fully.

Once dried I intend to mask the camo pattern and overspray the green.

(I will need to touch up the sky underside in a couple of places, it seems the water dip did mark a place or two)

With a bit of brown paint left in the cup I had a first bash at lightening the panels to simulate fading and am very chuffed with the results, annoyingly, the brown didn't lighten down much, (unlike Humbrols enamel) and ultimately the brown is too dark so will need stripping or overpainting, it transpires that I picked up the wrong brown acrylic, XF10 where I should have gotten XF52, (flat earth), oh well, that ones on hold until I've gotten a jar of XF52.

[Guest]

Panel shading looks great, wish i'd thought of doing that, brings another dimension to the model.

[Guest]

Thanks.

It's a pity i've had to strip this as I was very chuffed with the effect, i've read about it several times in magazines and the like but this was the first time i'd tried it but it really does add a bit more depth doesn't it, all I did was add a couple of drops of flat white with a stirring stick, a dribble more thinner and give it a good seeing to with the brush to mix it in the cup then gently lay it on in a few layers with low pressure.

Hopefully when I redo it in the correct shade I shoudl be able to replicate it.

[Guest]

Progress report:

Have received a jar of XF52 today, thanks kindly to Darren, (dm73), rooting through his unused paints and sending me his old un as he's converting to Vallejo? (i think it was).

As mentioned elsewhere, have some on order but typically that and one other are OOS and will be posted on when they get in.

I've been itching to get on with this, (especially with Graham speedlander showing us all up with his Hurricane turbo project), so here it is after stripping off the dark, respraying with the flat earth and toning as before, wil mask and spray the green, (hopefully tomorrow).

(i really like this highlighting effect and it's quite easy, just takes a clean nozzle and patience, oh and a couple of drops of white paint, in fact, i'd bet a good brush painter could do this by drybrushing a slightly lighter shade)

[Guest]

This is looking Great!

I have only just started my Spit MkI and it seems I have a hard act to follow!

Look forward to seeing your progress

keep up the good work

Rich