Dang, that is a whole lot of filler!! O.o
Keep up the great work!!
Keep up the great work!!
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Great work joe , its a real challenge sanding raised seams without destroying the panel lines but it is possible. There are some great kits out there that sometimes get overlooked simply because theyve got raised detail.i remember when this kit was released - it was one of the first matchbox kits that had raised detail and the reviewers loved it. Up to then they all had the trademark recessed trenches that all the reviewers used to moan about!! How things have come full circle and recessed is now the way to go .cant wait to see the canberra in its silver paint and on its "Multipose" stand!!, cheers your fellow Boomer ( Builder Of Old Mouldings Especially Raised). tonyComment
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Quite fun to watch someone else do all the work! I do hate the odd ejection mark, especially in glass. Looks great!Comment
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Cheers Dave.
Ta John. Raised lines aren't too difficult to preserve if you're careful with masking them prior to sanding. Lost lines can be rebuilt
Surprisingly, no Ian B| A new tube of filler is on standby!
Thanks Dave. Just had a look at your Matchbox Spitfire, similar predicaments, it's the age of the moulds. Having said that I've built 'modern' kits that require just as much work. No nose weight in this baby, it's living on a stand with wheels up, already worked out the CG etc and it sits fine.
Cheers Gavin, glad you're enjoying the show.
Agree entirely Tony, an age old argument the raised panel lines one. I've flown aircraft with more panels raised at the joins than flush. It's just a matter of preference, recessed panel lines are certainly easier to deal with and to highlight later. Interesting about the raised panel lines getting rave reviews, full circle indeed Boomer out (for now, as Arnie says I'll be back)
Not encountered ejection marks inside a canopy before, so this is a new one for me. Cheers for the comment Neil.Comment
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Great to see this being built Joe. I like old Matchbox stuff and have never had a problem with them. But, an ejector pin mark on the canopy - what where they thinking ??Comment
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The life of a modeller, eh.
Good work on the filling and sanding.Comment
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Thanks Colin and Ralph.
The canopy was polished to the best of my ability. Unfortunately that ejector mark goes right through the plastic, if I sand or rub much more I won't have a canopy left. So I bit the bullet and masked it up. At least it's not as bad as it was originally, and it's shiny!
I painted the area that will be visible under the canopy, and after that dried attached the canopy using white glue. The wing joins have now been sanded and smoothed.
And because of the size of this model and the overall High Speed Silver scheme, I've rigged up a simple suspension system for drying. Two bent pieces of wire to make hooks; the one in the fuselage is through the stand gap, the other is through the roof of a large box, the holes reinforced with 'bear tape' just in case.
For painting RAF High Speed Silver in the past I've used Humbrol 11 silver with a varnish over the top. It worked well on the Vampires, but on such a large surface area the graininess of that paint (it's much greyer than it used to be) will be obvious, so I've done some research and settled on Humbrol 27001 Aluminium Metalcote (not the polished ones).
Primer should go on today.Comment
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A Lionel Richie impression:
Of course things are often not what they seam (see what I did there?). Some touch ups and re-sanding were required. Those engine nacelles are a real pain in the backside.
I also took the opportunity to prime the stand. A clear stand with 'Lesney Products' etc all over it didn't appeal to me. It's been sanded and is ready for paint. Any ideas for a colour that would suit the silver Canberra without detracting from the aircraft? I have considered painting one side blue, the middle and vertical piece white, and the other side red, British colours.
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Looking good Joe , i often knock up 'heath robinson' type solutions for supporting/hanging a model for painting too, whether its temporary wooden legs or in the case of some jets a stick up the tailpipe (!!) or as youve done a suspended wire . Its going to look excellent in its shiny silver , and i think youre onto a winner with the three colour stand , cheers tonyComment
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Nice work JoeComment
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It's looking good JoeComment
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You use the same Hi-tec spray booth as me.Comment
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So, I found a wee sink mark that I missed on the other three 'prime-sand-prime' sessions, so today I have filled and sanded that smooth and touched the primer up. I think I may nearly be ready for paint at last! In the meantime I've decided I'm going to paint the stand a Royal blue colour with the kit decal on the side, a spare RAF roundel on the base front. The aircraft will be banked to the right left, away form the labels with it's tail down toward the pointed ends of the base. The 'crazing' you see is a temporary effect caused by an abortive white spray session. It's all fixed again now and ready for the main colour.
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Been busy last few days with trying to complete three models.
The Canberra was sprayed with aluminium. At last.
Two gentle sprays later and dry after a few days, the mask for the dark grey tail panel is removed.
The jet pipes looked too simple and crude as they were, so I cut the ends off a suitably wide brush tube (the ones that go over the bristles), and glued them inside the nacelles. This is more realistic, as the jet pipe is clear to see when viewed from the rear. I then painted the inside matt black.
And then the beast was glossed and hung again to dry.
Should be able to get some decals on tomorrow. I've prepared them, they were varnished earlier in the process. Really, really hoping they don't disintegrate!
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