Andy's 1/35 Tamiya Stug B

[Guest]

Don't think cleaning is the problem Andy , I can't imagine you not doing it well . More like temperature if your storing your paints at less than 45 F. Having that insulated box would be nothing with out some internal heat.
I find my Infinity as good as is doesn't like Vallejo unless it is thinned, tried Amig one shot primer and it stopped dead, mind I was using a .2 needle. Mean while spraying using my standard Ultra H &S with a .4 needle works fine, I just have to be easy on the trigger !

[stillp]

Maybe, even though I think I'm stripping and cleaning the brush well enough their are traces of lacquer paint/thinner left in it which are reacting with the Vallejo and causing it to clump.

Andy, you could try mixing some Vallejo paint with some lacquer thinners on a saucer, to see if it clumps or gels.
Pete

[Guest]

I could Pete, but there's enough reports of it around for me to take their word for it.

Having said that, I suppose I should try it for myself and see it with my own eyes :nerd:

[Guest]

Our survey said...

Cheap lacquer / cellulose thinner had little effect, but a few drops of the Mr Color Levelling Thinner I use to thin my lacquer paints and primers did this to Model Air! :flushed:

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Might cause a problem :smiling5:

[stillp]

Wow! I wonder what causes that reaction? Did you try with your airbrush cleaner as well?
Pete

[BattleshipBob]

Brake fluid.
Pete

Good god would never have thought that, but having seen what it can do to cars no wonder lol

[Guest]

Wow! I wonder what causes that reaction? Did you try with your airbrush cleaner as well?
Pete

Chemicals probably :smiling5:

No idea really Pete, but I have seen plenty of examples of it on modelling pages. MLT can be used for thinning Tamiya and other non-laquer paints, so people have tried it with Vallejo, getting similar results.

The airbrush cleaner I use after painting with Vallejo is their own (after a pre-rinse with water to get the worst out) so one would hope it's compatible. For clean up after Mr Color products I use cheap celly/lacquer thinner.

[stillp]

Thanks Andy.

[Guest]

So due to the moulding issue with my P-38 kit I decided to dust this off and have another crack at it, rectifying the mistakes I'd made along the way.

Carrying on with the mountain of PE I added the flush mount screws to the other side of the superstructure. I also used my new JLC saw to scribe a panel line into this section. Maybe it is one part in real life but due to the angle change I think it looks better like this. A bit of sanding to remove the stray superglue and I'm happy. Grab handle needs some attention as it looks like I molested it when trying to clean the sprue attachment point up!

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And this is a reminder of the opposite side that I did a while ago. Will definitely be redoing it now!

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There aren't enough PE screw heads in the kit to carry this on where I messed up on the top though. Much of the detail is clogged with melted styrene now from the rivets I mistakenly added so I'll be drilling them all out, and trying to add the screw detail from punched card. Should be fun.

[SimonT]

Andy - you could try soaking the rivets in liquid cement to clean them off for re-use

The side armour panels looks to have significant sink marks along the edges - if they do they would benefit from sanding flat

The one on my Zvezda/Dragon were rather sunken and had to be flattened

[Jim R]

Hi Andy
Well first off my apologies for coming to this so late. Just had a full read through and I must say you're doing a great job. The interior looks really nice, the seats, the rack, the weathering - great. Some interesting discussions going on :thumb2: Airbrushing Vallejo Model Color is one of those Marmite issues - works for some and drives others demented!
Best stuff I've found for airbrush cleaning when normal cleaning doesn't seem to work is THIS . I don't use it every time but really good when I need a bit extra umph :tongue-out3:
Early on in the thread Gator Glue was mentioned for sticking PE. It is great stuff. Looks like white glue but I reckon it has something extra in it. I often fix PE in place with Gator Glue. It gives plenty of wiggle time and any squeezed out glue cleans up easily with a damp brush. If you make a real cock-up all the glue just gets wiped away easily and you can start again. Once the part is fixed with the Gator Glue I often wick in thin CA along the join - sort of belt and braces job.
Anyway Andy keep up the great work.
Jim

[Guest]

Thanks Simon. I didn't actually see those sink marks until I enlarged the photo's so much but now that I have, I agree there's some more sanding needed.

Jim - Bob has mentioned the liquid reamer elsewhere and I reckon I'll give it a try for when I need something extra. I haven't put any Vallejo through the AB for quite a while now though and it's performing great with just the Mr Color. Will have a look at the Gator Glue too thanks. I'm still not having great luck with any type of CA so happy to try anything.

[Steve Jones]

Glad to see you have decided to stick with this one Andy. I am sure you will get over this hurdle and crack on with a finished build.

[scottie3158]

Andy,
The nice work continues.

[Guest]

Thanks for the encouragement Steve and Paul.

I have to say I'm not having fun with this at all though, a simple case of biting off more than I can chew with the etch. I'll persevere, as I'll never learn unless I stick at it, but it'll probably be something I keep coming back to between other builds :smiling3: