Dave Ward's 1/35 Revell Stug IV

[Dave Ward]

This will be my entry into this GB - of late my completion rate for GB's has been poor, but given 6 months to finish this, I'm optimistic..............
This was originally Italeri from 1976, but I would say the moulds have been updated/refurbished, as the sprues are pretty crisp.
One area that is NOT so good is the vinyl tracks, so I have a box of individual links........................

I'll post the sprue shots etc before I start ( which might be in the New Year )
Dave

[BattleshipBob]

All aboard Dave!!

[Dave Ward]

I finally decided I must make a start on this..........................
Sprue shots, a few detail shots etc

The parts look pretty crisp, and there's no flash, to speak of. I didn't take a picture of the vile vinyl tracks, they will be replaced by these



I noticed I was missing a drive sprocket, so I dug around, and found an old Tristar Mk.IV running gear set - and got these

I also have these, road wheels with separate tyres, If I can easily substitute these for the Revell parts, I will, it'll save some delicate painting.


Instructions, normal Revell, with the comprehensive decal sheet (!)


I'm going to make it with full schurzen, that saves me from applying zimmerit between the bodies & suspension eyc.
I quite fancy this, as a finish...................

I'll have a look at some other finishes, before I finally decide ( long way off )
Dave

[BattleshipBob]

Very nice and yes its a StuG

[Mini Me]

Good choice Dave, I always liked the lV over the lll. The Disc type camo is a little dodgy to get the right effect but it is fun to try it, although a bit time consuming.
Rick H.

[papa 695]

Nice one Dave, and a nice camo scheme too.

[prichrd1]

Dave,

Nice start, looking forward to this coming together. Have seen/watched a few disc cammo schemes being done - never attempted it myself !! Should be fun :tongue-out3:

Paul.
:smiling:

[Dave Ward]

For the disc camo, I was thinking along the lines of a round piece of sponge, mounted on a handle being used to 'stamp' the circles, rather than using a brush, or heavens forbid, masking for an airbrush! A little experimentation needed.
Dave

[Guest]

Masking for airbrushing could actually be very easy: punch a hole in a piece of paper, hold it to the model and spray through it; move and repeat. For ease you may want to punch a couple of holes close together and rotate the stencil every time, but this runs the risk of having repeating patterns appear in the camouflage.

[spanner570]

Masking for airbrushing could actually be very easy: punch a hole in a piece of paper, hold it to the model and spray through it; move and repeat. For ease you may want to punch a couple of holes close together and rotate the stencil every time, but this runs the risk of having repeating patterns appear in the camouflage.

As I see it, the problem with that method is one would have to wait until the paint dried before attempting the discs next to the painted ones. Even working away from the freshly applied paint. this would lead to a very long, but possibly workable process. Always happy to be proven wrong, as I'm sure there are other, better methods than mine. It's just that I'm happy with my way of trying to produce this type of camo.

If it is of any help, to create my discs, I used cut down paint brushes and 'twirled' them to get the circles. Make sure the brush is well loaded with paint. If you will pardon the pun, you will only get one stab at each 'Disc'.
Start at one end, preferably the front lower sloping of the model to get the feel for the brush and then make the pattern up as you work along the model. I hope that last bit doesn't read as being flippant, but marking things out beforehand makes the job so much harder. Guess how I know!

I suggest it would be extremely difficult, but not impossible to use a stencil, particularly in tight corners, right angles or rounded surfaces and still produce an acceptable disc.

Dave, can I suggest you have a play on some scrap plastic and see what method suits you best? - I did!

I hope the above is of some use to you.

Good luck whichever type of camouflage and method you adopt. I'm sure the result will be ace!

Ron

[Dave Ward]

No problem, Ron, thanks for your input! - I have been experimenting on some white card. I punched a small 'slug' of sponge, and CA'd it to a piece of sprue, as a handle - the sponge was backing to a sanding block, the finest hole sponge I could find


Then it was trial time - I actually thinned the paints, slightly ( both Vallejo Colour ), which is not needed, in fact the thicker the paint, the easier it is to get a good 'print' I just dipped the sponge in the paint, and pressed it at right angles to the surface, after 2 or 3 prints, another dip in the paint

You can see that thinning the paint makes it transparent - but the concept works, and when I use the paint neat, it'll be OK.
A little more care, thicker paint, and a better round sponge applicator, and I'll be happy with that!

Now, actually starting the build - the trickiest part of this is the Zimmerit - I used Revell Plasto putty, and the Trumpeter Zimmerit tools.
You have to spread a thinn(ish) layer of putty on the surface, then wait 2 or 3 minutes for the putty to start to go 'off '. The tools were dipped in water, shaken then dipped in talcum powder, to stop the putty sticking. I found that trying to do a large area wasn't on, as the putty dries pretty quickly, and the impressions get shallower.
Here's the hull front after first attempts

Once I get the feel of how much putty to apply, and how long to leave it, then I should be able to get better consistency, for areas that might be more visible - early days
I'm going to have a go at the backplate next, that may be a little tricky ( small areas )
Dave

[adt70hk]

Dave

Good luck with disc camo! The thought of all those spots before my eyes.....:fearful:

ATB

Andrew

[Dave Ward]

According to the Revell colour profile, the discs only go on the Schurzen, so it's not too bad - flat surfaces!
Dave

[Guest]

As I see it, the problem with that method is one would have to wait until the paint dried before attempting the discs next to the painted ones.

You’d have to make sure your paint isn’t too thin so that it dries quickly on the model. If it remains wet then you’d have the problems you mention, but with dry enough paint you can pretty much just spray, move, spray again. You would have to keep the stencil somewhat clean, though, else paint building up on it would eventually get wet enough to leave marks, I think.

[Guest]

You need a potato. At least that's how we used to do that kind of printing at school lol.

In all seriousness though, I thought Ron's idea was brilliant when I first saw it, but the sponge looks like it would work pretty well too.