Christian's Dragon 6860 1:35 Stug III Wittmann Barbarossa build

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Man, this took longer than expected to get started for me! Work priorities, other builds (especially: Hobbyboss 1:35 Brummbär and finishing Dragon Flak 37), and apprehension about the many mods this build requires to original Dragon pieces kept me at bay. Looking through a lot of my other Dragon Stug kits, the heavy amount of mods go way back.

As usual, the Dragon pieces are beautiful with sharp details. I had a few flashy parts on the V-sprue so far, otherwise things look good in that department. There really is not a lot of filing to be done apart from removing sprue attachment residue, which is one of the reasons I usually like building Dragon models so much.

Having started the build, I have to say that so far (which as you can see below is just part of the hull, up to and including step 3 of the instructions), the mods are not as bad to do as I expected. We will see how this presents itself as the build goes on, as I have to cut e.g. the barrel and remove a length of that. ("Smart Kit - made for modelling enjoyment!") Seriously...

For the first time, I had to cut and fit four round plastic pieces to resemble bolts, on the hull itself. Not something I expected to go well, but I feel it actually did, and the result can be seen 4 and 5 images below.

I have a hard time understanding why the rubber parts of the wheels are not separate pieces, as this would save a lot of precision brush work without the need to buy accessories such as masks.

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Unfortunately, I got the wheel bars wrong. This was not helped by the Dragon instructions being incorrect, in that it shows the outside slot pointing upwards. It should point downwards. This confused me, and so I got this wrong on my first wheel bar construction ever. Hopefully, this will not prove a big problem for fitting the A4 pieces, as seemingly only a few of them are visible. Perhaps I can cut those that are visible into shape, and leave the rest off?

[Steve Jones]

Great to see you back on the forum Christian. Seat front and centre for this one. Decided on the finished paint scheme yet?

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Thank you, Steve :-)

Actually, this version only has monotone grey variants in the instructions. Don't know if later schemes existed of the III a, but in the end it's our models.

I look forward to doing a grey one, though. I havn't made a lot of those, I believe only a Panzer II, C7P and a schwimmwagen.

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

...and I intend to be able to field at least two longer and one shorter army train:

1. Panzer grey vehicle theme, early war.
2. Tri-tonal, middle and later war.
3. North African. With weathering a steamloco as sand dusty. When I do eventually get to that one day, it's going to be really cool looking, I think!!! At present, however, I don't even know which Deutsche Reichsbahn loks were actually operating in that theatre. This will be the short train, as I intend to weather the wagons in sand dust as well, so they won't fit in many other places or uses.

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Assembling the next bit, the backend of the hull, was more difficult than it needed to be, since the instructions forced me into trial-and-error mode. However, I managed to piece it together in the end, and I can imagine experienced Dragon stug-builders don't give it much thought as they go through this for the 17th time?

The chains dangling in the wind I am very happy with. It looks cool, I think, and I hope I won't be breaking them off when building, painting or weathering. Fingers crossed!!! :surprised:

[BattleshipBob]

Always good to see a StuG! Cracking progress sir!

Ausf A, A2 and B also used a two tone paint job. 60% dunkelgrau and 30% dark brown RAL 7017


Hope this helps?

I have the same A in Dunkelgrau and will do the two tone, and a A2 almost ready

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Thank you, Bob, for the pointers. I will do a monotone grey since I would like to see more of those on the train.

Do you know if the PE for the large back wheels (return rollers?) is supposed to be visible, blocking the holes on the wheels? The pieces are definitely shaped that way, but it was surprising to me.

[BattleshipBob]

Do you mean the large rear idler wheel, if so the PE is surposed to be the spacers used when they changed to a wider 40cm track

I left them off as you say they blocked holes, does not make any differance

Bob

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

It's this one:

[BattleshipBob]

Thats the one!

[Steve Jones]

Great to have Bob along side Christian when building a Drug. Nice update

[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Had a good time building one of the fenders :-)

Unfortunately, I could not see if parts A25 were supposed to go on, and if so how, when using part blue A40. Anyone know the answer to these two questions?

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[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Second fender done - came up with a bid for the A25 piece placement for when the fender is up, but could still use a hint as mentioned above.

I am curious to see how it all fits together when going on the hull. The unclear instructions this time around are one of those which give Dragon part of its bad name.
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[Gauge1TrainsDK]

Upper hull parts done, with all photoetch being very well behaved - once again had a good time :-)

One note: In step 13, there are no physical marks to show the exact placement of parts blue A3, 4, and 11. Shoddy, and demonstrates some of the low standards of modern Dragon.

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