Dave’s Bf 110C, Eduard 1/72nd

[BarryW]

On holiday at the moment and my planned Coast to Coast walk in the UK was cancelled

Blimey. My missus was booked to do a coast to coast walk staring the the Lake District and ending (Robin Hood Bay I think) that was cancelled.....

[BarryW]

Nicely detailed 110 for 1/72. That is looking very good indeed.

[dave]

Blimey. My missus was booked to do a coast to coast walk staring the the Lake District and ending (Robin Hood Bay I think) that was cancelled.....

It will be the same walk, St Bees Head to Robin Hoods Bay, quite a few companies will organize the accommodation en route, we were using Macs Adventures, they also move your luggage so you only carry a day sack; used them several times for the West Highland Way and one across Istria in Croatia. Hopefully we will be able to do it next year.

[dave]

it has finally cooled down a little, so i managed to do a little touching up of the paintwork and get the gloss varnish on, still using Humbrol Clear. I have now started work on the decals, one of the issues with this scheme is they only show it from one side so for the main decals a little reference to other pictures is required, Eduard show all the minor common decals on a separate diagram. Normally the swastika's for the tail are provided in two halves and whole, but this kit has had the whole swastikas removed which makes for a little more work.
The little tray i am using for soaking came with some takeaway sushi and is proving very handy. I am taken a tracing of the sharks teeth decals so if I make a complete pigs ear of it, I shall try to cut a mask and spraypaint them.

[tr1ckey66]

Great progress Dave. And a nice save with the replacement parts lost to the carpet monster.
I have a 1/32 Dragon 110 which will get the same scheme as this. My plan is to mask and paint rather than use decals. Iin 1/32 this is fairly straight forward but in 1/72 a shark mouth will be pretty fiddly! I’m hoping for your sanity that the decals work out. Then again if you pull off the masking job you really will have pulled off something special.
Either way this zestorer is looking good.
Cheers
P

[stillp]

Looking very good Dave.
Pete

[dave]

I bit the bullet and tackled the sharks teeth, they look fine from the side; unfortunately there are some gaps underneath. A big part of the issue was the cannon ports on the underside which interfered with positioning. However it is not too bad and i think a little judicious work with a scalpel i can get rid of the creases. After that i will try to cover the gaps by touching in with paint, the trick here is going to be matching the red and white with paint. It is difficult but i have done it successfully in the past with a roundel that partly disintegrated on application.

[tr1ckey66]

That’s workable Dave. I think you’ll match the paint. If it‘s not an exact match, but close enough, then you can always go over the entire red area
up to (but not quite) to the edges of the teeth (therefore maintaining the sharp edge). That’ll even out the colour.
Cheers
Paul

[colin m]

Well done for having a go Dave, but lets be honest, we knew it was going to be big trouble.

[dave]

Some more progress on decaying and some remedial work on the sharks teeth, looking a lot better now and with a little weathering they will look fine.

[Fernando N]

Looking very nice Dave, neat work with the sharks mouth too:thumb2:

[flyjoe180]

Nicely recovered Dave. Coming along nicely.

[dave]

Bit more disaster recovery required. I had finished the decals and had decided to use the MRP Exhaust Soot to airbrush some exhaust staining, first time I had tried to do it this way. I sprayed a little wider than I intended and went to clean off the excess, a little nervous having read Barry's thread but I figured that the Humbrol Clear Gloss Varnish being acrylic would not be affected by the MRP solvent. Turned out it provided no protection.




So got to work this afternoon with the masking tape and did a localised respray of the two greens, which has done the trick. One to chalk up to experience.

[BarryW]

Hi Dave. Yes, the acrylic gloss did not do the job unfortunately. The exhaust soot though is really effective but it is easy to overshoot.

[stona]

Ouch!

I do exhaust staining using the same paints that I paint the rest of the aircraft in. I typically use greys, browns reds and black to build up something appropriate.

I have never felt the need to buy anything that is not in my paint draw already, I've got better things to spend my money on, and anyway, no one-off product can replicate the subtlety and complexity of the real staining.

Staining can vary from the almost white seen on aircraft like Lancaster bombers, running very lean mixtures of highly leaded fuel for hours on end, to the predominantly black seen on Luftwaffe fighters doing almost the exact opposite. There is just about everything in between.

Love 'im or hate 'im, Brett Green does some really good exhaust staining. I have adopted a system very similar to his since I first saw it many years ago.