That, and don’t leave the tracks until the very end. I’ve said this plenty of times before, but a lot of modellers build the whole vehicle and only then start on the tracks, meaning they have a very dull job ahead of them with nothing else to do until it’s finished. But if you start on the track around the time you also start on the rest of the model, and break it up into doing short lengths at a time like Doug says, you’ll find it much less tedious.
You’re welcome
As I mentioned in the thread about the French Sd.Kfz. 251, pins are likely to break on a fair number of links. But as long as at least one of the two pins still remains, the tracks should hold together well enough to paint them and add them to the model. If they get too snaky when building, it will help if you straighten them out (along a ruler, for example) every once in a while, because this will relieve strain on the links that only have a single pin left — which is where the track is most likely to bend sideways.
					You’re welcome

As I mentioned in the thread about the French Sd.Kfz. 251, pins are likely to break on a fair number of links. But as long as at least one of the two pins still remains, the tracks should hold together well enough to paint them and add them to the model. If they get too snaky when building, it will help if you straighten them out (along a ruler, for example) every once in a while, because this will relieve strain on the links that only have a single pin left — which is where the track is most likely to bend sideways.

 
	 The tracks are simply very fiddly, the rest of it is OK but the model has a major issue in being about 3 mm too narrow … The only reasonable way to correct that, though, is to put it back into its box and buy one from AFV Club instead
 The tracks are simply very fiddly, the rest of it is OK but the model has a major issue in being about 3 mm too narrow … The only reasonable way to correct that, though, is to put it back into its box and buy one from AFV Club instead 
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