SimonT - 1/35 Tamiya Sdkfz.223

[Guest]

You’d never think it’s the old Tamiya kit by the time you’re done …

BTW, I always found it odd that the 222 kit has a covered spare wheel but the 223 comes with a bare one instead.

[Neil Merryweather]

Looking good Simon.
I'm disappointed the aerial doesn't actually fold-I mean, you went so far.................
I like the wheel cover too-you're no slouch with the Duro, are you?

[Jim R]

Hi Simon
That's a labour of love but it has paid off and looks great.
Jim

[SimonT]

Jakko - that's the general idea :thumb2: The spare wheel is an oddity - you would expect them to use the same one like they did with the other parts. Still, it gives us the chance to do a bit of mix and match if we want

Neil - could have done but what's the point of having moving features on a static model :smiling5:
I think I am slowly getting to grips with the Duro sculpting putty - has taken a while. Wasted the first reel I used as just couldn't figure it out. Once you realise it is only for sculpting and not filling and that it works best with a smear of vaseline it makes more sense

Jim - thanks


the exhausts after a bit more work

the kit tailpipes are incorrect so they were sliced off and replaced with aluminium tubing bent to a U shape so that it returns below the silencer box

the silencer boxes are wrapped in pewter sheet 11.5mm wide so that it overlaps the ends on the box to create the correct flange


the cut outs in the rear mudguards are rather large so I filled them with plastic card and re-cut the openings


to leave a slightly narrower aperture


that gives a closer fit to the silencer box


hinges added to front wing stowage boxes


etch fasteners added to side stowage boxes - bit more work still to do on these


added the kit half figure as a driver - not a brilliant figure but he can hardly be seen so not a problem


may just see an outline through the window


top deck in place - needs a little fettling but not too bad

you can also see the cable grommet bottom right for the aerial cable - cable runs from grommet to the adjacent aerial post and connects at the top

have decided not to use the etch door hinges as the chunkier kit versions look more like the real thing

[Jim R]

Morning Simon
All coming together and up to your usual standard. How do you bend the aluminium tube without it just kinking?
Jim

[Guest]

Morning Simon
All coming together and up to your usual standard. How do you bend the aluminium tube without it just kinking?
Jim

Morning Jim.
I expect some strange power is employed while chanting to the metal gods !

Excuse me Simon , I got excited at the mention of pewter, nearly as good as mentioning fire !

[SimonT]

Morning Jim - there is some slight kinking if you look closely. I bent it using round nose pliers, very slowly levering it as well as rolling it between the jaws. Bit hard to describe really - trying to use the jaws a bit like a pipe bender machine

John - hopefully fire will not be involved, but it had to have some pewter

[Jim R]

Hi Simon
I seem to remember asking somewhere about bending tube before :rolling: Do you think you could do like plumbers do and fill the centre? Maybe a length of wire pushed inside. Mind you if it was too tight a fit or the bend was too sharp you'd perhaps never get it out :tongue-out3:

I expect some strange power is employed while chanting to the metal gods !

I thought something along those lines too!!

Jim

[SimonT]

Hi Jim - K&N do a set of bending springs but I have not had any success with them. Might be ok if you want a bend in the middle of a long length but not a short piece. Have tried wire down centre but then you are stuck with wire inside as there is no way it will pull out. The wire has to be pretty much the same as the bore otherwise it will not hold the tube walls and you will still get a kink

[Tim Marlow]

Have you tried filling with solder, making the bend, then melting the solder out again? It works for brass tubing, but may be difficult to fill aluminium tubing?

[KarlW]

I lost a bending spring bending 10mm pipe when I moved my oil tank. Started using sand from then.

[SimonT]

Tim - how on earth do you fill a pipe with solder?

Karl - don't think I would get much sand down it, hole is only about 1mm


glue cleaned up on the etch roof



cable added to aerial frame

guards added around semaphore turn indicators - the attachment points are rubbish and will require filler


window covers modified so that they are in the open position


turret assembled after filling the hole where the mg is meant to be rather inaccurately clipped on

[Guest]

Tim - how on earth do you fill a pipe with solder?

Slide it in like any other wire, I would imagine?

[Guest]

Slide it in like any other wire, I would imagine?

Then melt to fill the gaps ?

[Tim Marlow]

Hi simon
you use a solder pot at one end, warm the pipe and then fit one of these
www.amazon.co.uk/Solder-Sucker-Desoldering-Desolder-Remover/dp/B07JZF2MKD/ref=sr_1_22?adgrpid=54968804804&dchild=1&gclid=Cjw KCAjwgdX4BRB_EiwAg8O8HXYiyye1hpYiF_WLGHa_UWvp5MWOY b0eHEdh9VUsHV6dtnRa4EqLwhoC-S4QAvD_BwE&hvadid=259110253177&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=10 06578&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=b&hvrand=10330026042169340912 &hvtargid=kwd-295762056646&hydadcr=28148_1752695&keywords=solder +sucker&qid=1595234202&sr=8-22&
at the other. The suction (it’s a Spring loaded single hand operated tool) will pull the liquid solder into the pipe. There is obviously a minimum size tube that can be accommodated, and it works best with low melt solder.