BMP3 with added armour trumpeter1/35

[David Lovell]

Kit box art ,no boring spru shots but it was full of yellow plastic.
Got as far as lower running gear no big shakes here just the usual snip and glue

So next up was the tracks.
Make a 168 units comprising 2 parts per link
168 links with 2 sprue gates per link=336 gates to be snipped/cut
168links with 2 clean up points = 336 clean ups
168 track teeth with 1 sprue gate = 168 gates to be snipped/cut (though these were easily removed from spru with a scalpel)
168 track teeth with 1 clean up point = 168 clean ups
Then build the links allowing 84 per side(set of tracks)
So a 168 teeth to be fixed to 168 links with 2 cement fixing points per link = 336 points to glue ,I took the tooth to the glue then the tooth to the link

Yippee the last one

Two sets of 84 ready to go. Its not as bad as it seem get a little method/rhythm going got it done in two sessions takes longer to prep all the pieces glueing themselves the easy bit. Dave

[Jim R]

That's a lot of bits for the tracks. Just a couple of sessions so well done. I think Trumpeter are well known for high parts count kits.

[David Lovell]

That's a lot of bits for the tracks. Just a couple of sessions so well done. I think Trumpeter are well known for high parts count kits.

Devil and the deep Jim these were pretty simple I think some kits have three or four parts per link but what do manufacturers do simplified links people will moan ,rubber band/length track's are personally rubbish but great for thoes that can't be bothered by that I mean whats the problem all ive done is snip and glue the same as I'm going to have to do with the rest of the kit ,then there's them fruils? Don't see paying more for some links than what I paid for the kit anyway I have bought a set just the once in my before I knew better days even back then donated a arm and the lower part of a leg only to find every single link needed a fair bit ofcleaning up every single link needed drilling out there wasn't enough of the twisted bent up wire that was supplied and build wise very hard what with the CA to keep it all fully articulated unless I was a clueless twit?(please all keep your comments to that remark to your self's :tongue-out: ) just as hard work as what I've just done once painted all look the same. Link and length are OK especially like the 1/48 stuff in the hobbyboss kits got the sag all built in ive seen people moan they don't fit thats because they haven't read the instructions plus a bit obvious if the high points in the sag don't fit the return rollers you've either got it the wrong way round or the wrong side still waiting for someone to do 35th tracks like the zvesda 1/72 ones these are tremendous absolutely fool proof but ive seen them slagged off for not fitting but once again they won't fit if you put them on the wrong side they are numbered in the instructions. Tanks need tracks so for all partys its either a win win or a lose lose the old cant please all of the time the wingy people have the same probs with seat belt /instrument panels I love what some of thoes 3d stick on do but does detailing a cockpit dont get me wrong some of what the guys do is outstanding but bolt it up fit a canopy most of it cant be seen does it warrant ending up paying more for that pleasure than the kit its self might have cost.
Please guys just a few thoughts perhaps a discussion on this somewhere else might get some healthy thoughts going as to where this part of the hobby takes you. Dave

[David Lovell]

Evenin all ,who was that Dixon of doc green? not that I can remember of course any way ,but after all the snippy gluey track work thought I'd do some of the rest to give myself a change ,the model comes with a very poor interior looks like something you'd put playmobile figures in ,ive no intention of painting or displaying it but ive paid so I'll build it

Fit of parts is very good well anything would be good after the M12 it was then that I thought blimy will I be able to slide the tracks through there ,was that why the instructions told me to crack on with the tracks before starting the body looks a bit tight now by the rear sprocket

I hadn't fixed the rear sprocket so was in with a chance.
I dry fitted the links together in blocks of ten

Then glued ten then another ten and then glued them together to make a block of twenty repeated till I'd got four blocks of twenty and glued them into one strip of eighty leaving the od four ,pulling off the rear sprocket managed to thread through the strip of eighty and managed to kind of twist out track and tilt the sprocket back in

and carried on gently wrapping around to complete the job.


Not to bad in the end ,must remember to fit the mud scraper things? that go between the rear sprocket. Dave

[David Lovell]

Hope this works if someone reply I'll take some pics of the build up to primer so far and look at posting them doesn't seem that diffrent but when your a non tec old age git who hates change ..........

[David Lovell]

*
Jesus wept that took some ass about front dancing just to post a picture I THINK? Give us a thumbs up if you can see this. Dave

[David Lovell]

Kin hell there's three picture's now sod this