BMW R75 with Sidecar - 1/35

[AFC]

Hi All,

Let me share some pics of my new building. This is a Tamiya 1/35 BMW R75 with sidecar. A very SMALL one but giving loads of fun so far.

I gave it a coat of Klear. The next step is to give it a blue oil filter so the field grey looks a bit blue-ish.

Hope you like it and let me have your feedback.

The last 3 pics show a bit of scratch building:

1) the kit doesn't bring a exaust pipe "cover"

2) they forgot to also include the "kick" (don't know the english name for that pedal you use to start the engine on anyway I meant the 3rd pic)

3) the "wooden floor" in the sidecar

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[Guest]

Hi AFC. Cant view the attachments.

[Guest]

I can now. Cracking little thing.

[Guest]

Hi AFC,

Looking good, like the kick start nice touch.

Looking forward to the end product.

John

[AFC]

Hi All,

Did some attempts on using pigments in my model but the real disaster came with the varnish coat I gave on top of it...touching the paint and washes didn't go any better...anyway lots of lessons learned and some experiments like the cover near the oils drums

Anyhow...this one goes into the bin unless someone knows a good and effortless way to wash all the painting out so I can start all over again. Otherwise I'll get another one as I loved the model and want to have one well done.

Before throwing it away though...something I thought would be funny

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The End? It's up to you to decide (comment) :goodluck:

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[Guest]

I'm afraid we can't really see the bike very well in these shots so it's difficult to comment but what I would suggest is that you don't throw it away just yet. You need to refer to it in the future to see just what worked and what didn't as you learn and improve your modelling. Old models are the best references we have for techniques and procedures.

As for removing the painting I'm not sure what you are referring to. If you have put an oil wash oveer the bike then it should still come off with oil paint solvent such as Windsor and Newtons Sansodor but if you have subsequently covered that with an acrylic clear coat then it probably not going to be worth your while'

Don't forget as well that parts of old models are a supply of invaluable items to be used in diorama's, modellers very rarely throw things away!!

Finally have a look at the canvas dodger I made for the Ben Ain here:

http://www.scale-models.co.uk/boats-ships/1711-steamer-ben-ain-15.html

It's made out of ventilation sticky foil tape with the gum washed off with a solvent then folded to shape, primed and painted. It's great stuff to work with as it holds it's shape when you work it.

[Guest]

To remove all the paint down to the plastic, though may take a lot of time with all the nook and crannies but you can use over cleaner...like Easy Off. Not sure if that is available for you but it works well. You'll have to spray it and let it set for a couple hours, and whip away with cu-tips. You may need to reapply. Here is a link for an example though it's with a metal figure, but it works just as well on plastic.

[AFC]

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. I won't throw it away and will try to use an oven cleaner just to see how it works. However I don't want to waste more time with this one as I have 2 more in the pipeline to start with: Sherman M4A2 (my first ever tank) and a Mini Cooper 1275S. One day though I will do this BMW again and also a Zundapp in the same scale. I really do like these models!

Richard, Thanks for the ventilation foil tape hint. Will try it out. The result in your post was really nice. Is it that easy to work with?

Thanks.

Cheers

Andre

[Guest]

Andre, I have made two boat covers with it, sails for the lifeboat, a canvas dodger for the bridge and a cover for the coal bunker all in the same way. The tape is like cooking foil but much heavier so it holds it's shape very well. The biggest job is removing the gum from the back, which can be a bit of a struggle and you have to be very careful that you don't damage the foil while you are doing it but when it is clean of gum you have a really versatile and useful modelling material. I find a strong paint solvent with kitchen roll works fairly well.

I usually make the foil into the correct finished shape article, have a look at the boat covers in the Ben Ain article, then add stitching detail with a fine pouncing wheel before folding it into a naturally folded shape. I then spray it with a Halfords acrylic primer then add the top base coat before finally going to work with shading and highlights. If you want a canvas texture then add some fine powder such as talcum powder to the paint to give it a suitable surface. Most surface textures at 1/35th scale would not really be noticeable anyway and just the matt paint itself should be enough.

If you can get hold of a roll of the tape it will last you a lifetime of modelling.

[AFC]

Thanks Richard for the detailed explanation. Will use it in my next project.

Cheers