Land-Wasser-Schlepper No. 1071

[Jim R]

Hi Jakko
Always difficult to mask a curved shape in a confined area. I'm sure the touch up of the floor won't be too hard.
Jim

[Guest]

I still have the paint I used on the floor originally (an old Humbrol tin), so it shouldn’t be too difficult to fix

[Guest]

Mr. Surfacer applied to the brass rod etc. as a primer:

[ATTACH]451153[/ATTACH]

And I masked off the windows:

[ATTACH]451154[/ATTACH]

I did the angular ones at the front on both sides before glueing them in, but the round ones only on the inside because I noticed that there is an edge that overlaps the clear part from the outside. I’m waiting for the glue to dry so I can mask the other side too, so I don’t push the windows back in by accident

Masking the insides was very easy, though: just put a piece of tape slightly bigger than the window in, push it right into all the corners with a blunt sculpting tool, and then trim with a sharp knife. The outside was actually more difficult.

[Jim R]

Hi Jakko
I hate masking windows, so many opportunities for it to go wrong. What glue do you use for clear parts?
Jim

[Guest]

These were fairly easy to mask because the inside is recessed, and the outside of the round windows too once they’ve been glued in place. I glued them in with Tamiya extra thin, because I wanted them to be in strongly enough to mask he outside. If I would still have had access to the interior after painting, I would probably have used PVA or something instead, though.

[Guest]

Interior sprayed:

[ATTACH]451302[/ATTACH]

This should be the German ivory colour, but I didn’t have that so I used British Portland Stone instead, which is also a yellowish, off-white colour so it should do. This was LifeColor paint, which I bought years ago to use on British vehicles, but I found LifeColor almost impossible to brush-paint — no matter which colour, it needs four, five or even more coats to cover even reasonably. I had never tried spraying it, but it seems to cover much better. I sprayed it unthinned, and though that worked, a few drops of water and/or higher pressure may have been better. Something to keep in mind for next time, I suppose

[adt70hk]

Coming on nicely Jakko. Looking very good so far.

Have you looked at the tracks again yet?

[minitnkr]

I used to take copious notes about stuff like that. I run across them now & again when I'm not looking for them.

[adt70hk]

Hi Jakko,

Was looking through some old threads and realised you and I had a chat about these very tracks and their handedness.....

https://www.scale-models.co.uk/threa...87/post-532942.

ATB.

Andrew

[Guest]

Yep, those are exactly the tracks that are also in this kit, except that the instructions for the LWS say the L is for the left-hand side and F for the right. I’ve by now cleaned up all of the links and assembled four or five ten-link lengths. As it needs 147 links per side, according to Bronco (Spielberger says 143, so I guess the kit’s links are about 3% too short ) I’ll have plenty more to assemble …

[Guest]

After the off-white interior, I added a wash made from Vallejo German dark yellow, followed by heavy drybrushing with Army Painter pale flesh (much the same colour as the Portland Stone base) and lighter drybrushing with white to highlight the details:

[ATTACH]451383[/ATTACH][ATTACH]451384[/ATTACH]

I still need to paint most of the details, but did apply Panzer grey to the centre of the rear wall, because it will be hard to spray once the cabin is on the hull. Bronco indicates this rear area should be in the interior colour, but on the real vehicle it was painted like the outside, because it was on the outside

Also, I took the masking tape off the insides of the windows, mainly so I won’t forget to later (I know myself pretty well …).

[Guest]

[ATTACH]451555[/ATTACH][ATTACH]451556[/ATTACH]

This is most of the interior finished now, except for mainly the dashboard. The seats were fun, several legs had to be glued back on during painting and when I glued the seats to the floor, all four legs of the last (rightmost) one snapped off entirely Getting them all back on the seat and then the seat to the floor with wet glue at eight points was a bit of a juggling act, and the seat still looks a little crooked.

This model reminds me of aircraft kits: with those, you spend what feels like ages plodding on working on the cockpit with very little to show for it, and then when that’s done you can glue the fuselage halves together and the model suddenly seems to go much quicker. This one looks like it will be much the same, so I’m nearly there

[Tim Marlow]

Interior looks the part Jakko. Nice job.

[Jim R]

Hi Jakko
Nicely done interior. Hope you're right and the rest is straightforward.
Jim

[scottie3158]

Jakko,
Moving along nicely.