Tamiya BMW R75/ sidecar
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I'm also 'doubtful' regarding some of the Tamiya colour suggestions/kit omissions:-
Front wheel blanking plate - given in the instructions as 'Flat White' - these plates were probably either steel or Aluminium
Front fork sliders - no mention of them, but they were probably steel coloured (or scratched up) as especially on an outfit, the forks tend to flex a bit! (Specially if ridden 'enthusiastically' :tongue-out3: )
No sidecar 'triangulation' stays (Zvezda do include them) so will have to 'play' with some sprue.
Daresay that I'll come across more as I go through! -
That'll teach me - just went to the paint box, and at some point over the past 10+ years (last time I did a model!) the 'Polished Steel' has dried right out and the only 'Silver' I've got is 'Chrome Silver' (could have sworn I'd got at least half a tin of 'Silver'!), so a slight hiatus while I order some paints!
Order put into the forum shop for paints & some jerry cans (might as well bulk it out a little!)Comment
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Guest
A second coat will fix that fine. Acrylics often don’t cover fully on the first go if you brush them on, but just wait until the paint is hard and put on another coat.
Well, that is, as long as you’re not using LifeColor paint, which will still need about three more coats after that.Comment
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I'm using the old Humbrol & Airfix enamels that I've got sitting in 'the paint box' - haven't 'moved up' to acrylics yet!:upside::smiling5: Though to be fair to them, a good stir, and they seem to be back to how they were in the first place when new - not bad for getting on for 20 year old paints (quite possibly a lot older!) just my shaky hands and eyesight that are the problem!A second coat will fix that fine. Acrylics often don’t cover fully on the first go if you brush them on, but just wait until the paint is hard and put on another coat.
Well, that is, as long as you’re not using LifeColor paint, which will still need about three more coats after that.
The other problem is the old brushes have gone a little 'fuzzy', so will probably 'bind' or trim them to get back 'tight' - though my two 'detail' brushes are fine (2 hairs on each so that they act like a fountain pen nib).
Still, at least I can practice on the 'out of sight' bits!
Thanks, just got to get the 'modelling head' on & some batteries (AG10s) for the magnifying specs.Comment
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Guest
Ah, I thought you were using acrylics
But yeah, enamels, especially Humbrol’s, will last just about forever. I have tins I bought in the 1980s that work fine, and some (5–10 or so) years ago I bought a supply that dated from the 1970s, which are also still perfectly good — provided you stir them for what feels like hours first
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Hate to think how old some of those paints of mine are - started doing models about '72(?) and you don't use much 'flesh' paint - and there's a tin of olive drab in the box - can't remember the last time that I did an 'Allied' model! :thinking:Ah, I thought you were using acrylics :smiling3: But yeah, enamels, especially Humbrol’s, will last just about forever. I have tins I bought in the 1980s that work fine, and some (5–10 or so) years ago I bought a supply that dated from the 1970s, which are also still perfectly good — provided you stir them for what feels like hours first :smiling3:Comment
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Guest
You can date Humbrol paints fairly well by what is printed on the tin, and the numbering on the lid. If the colour numbers include letters, like HU-1, then it’s probably 1970s or earlier, as the tins I bought in the early 1980s when I started building models, only had numbers.
Wow, I just found this site that explains the dates of the different tins. I think in that batch of old paint I bought, I have some from the early to mid 60s, even. Most appear to be 1970s, though.Comment
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Guest
Jakko nice to see such a international collaboration, nerds supreme.:nerd:You can date Humbrol paints fairly well by what is printed on the tin, and the numbering on the lid. If the colour numbers include letters, like HU-1, then it’s probably 1970s or earlier, as the tins I bought in the early 1980s when I started building models, only had numbers.
Wow, I just found this site that explains the dates of the different tins. I think in that batch of old paint I bought, I have some from the early to mid 60s, even. Most appear to be 1970s, though.
Sorry Gerry butting in.Comment
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@Jakko looks like the earliest Humbrol that in a quick look I've got is around '93, so not as early as I thought. Have got a couple of 'JP' colours - not sure where they came from - I can't find any mention on the web about them! Still, the main thing is that they still work! My Airfix are post glass bottles though. :thumb2:You can date Humbrol paints fairly well by what is printed on the tin, and the numbering on the lid. If the colour numbers include letters, like HU-1, then it’s probably 1970s or earlier, as the tins I bought in the early 1980s when I started building models, only had numbers.
Wow, I just found this site that explains the dates of the different tins. I think in that batch of old paint I bought, I have some from the early to mid 60s, even. Most appear to be 1970s, though.
Don't be sorry, always room for a bit of banter!Comment
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Guest
It’s still the paint from before they switched to the improved (yeah, right) “Super Enamels”, so you should be OK with it.
Never heard of that brand, I think.Comment
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Got some of the "Super Enamel", but not looked at that yet! At least I don't think that I've any of the 'Chinese' humbrol!Comment

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