Model kit glue

[Guest]

The most commonly used polystyrene solvent is methyl ethyl ketone, often shortened to MEK

This is one of the constituents of the ontvetter (“degreaser”) I posted above, IIRC about one-third by volume.

You would be also wise to point out that MEK is VERY flammable and also VERY toxic.

The risk depends a lot on how you use it and how much. If you have a small bottle of it that you keep closed when you don’t actively need it, the risk is rather smaller than, say, having open vats of it standing around. Given the quantities modellers use and the small openings on glue bottles, the risk should be pretty low.

At last someone else who uses thinners .

I was given the tip to use this Bison stuff about 25 years ago by the late J.L.A. de Grave (well-known to many Twenot members), and never bought a bottle of model cement again until, I think, two years ago when the brush on my old one finally gave up the ghost entirely.

I get a 5 litre tin for about £15 ( this will last me years and years) then decant some into an old marmite jar

One of these 250 ml tins lasts me a couple of years, I think. I just top up my liquid cement bottle (originally an Italeri one, now a Gunze Sangyo) when I can’t reach the fluid inside anymore with the brush.

[Guest]

Reading all the replies I get the feeling we've been ripped off all these years. I've got some cellulose thinners for cleaning my Mr Hobby metal primer brush, will try it tomorrow.

This is one of the constituents of the ontvetter (“degreaser”) I posted above, IIRC about one-third by volume.


The risk depends a lot on how you use it and how much. If you have a small bottle of it that you keep closed when you don’t actively need it, the risk is rather smaller than, say, having open vats of it standing around. Given the quantities modellers use and the small openings on glue bottles, the risk should be pretty low.


I was given the tip to use this Bison stuff about 25 years ago by the late J.L.A. de Grave (well-known to many Twenot members), and never bought a bottle of model cement again until, I think, two years ago when the brush on my old one finally gave up the ghost entirely.


One of these 250 ml tins lasts me a couple of years, I think. I just top up my liquid cement bottle (originally an Italeri one, now a Gunze Sangyo) when I can’t reach the fluid inside anymore with the brush.

[Guest]

Thinners, now that's interesting. We always have a few 25l barrels knocking around at work and I'm sure they won't mind me having a few ml here and there. I should never need to buy a "thin" glue again.

[Guest]

Thinners eh.....interesting. Might give it a go.
I always use revell contacta. To me it smells like pear drops (which i love).

I did get a bottle of cement which was made by the shop I bought it from. I didn’t note what was it in, just that the advice was I use a brush with natural hair fibres. When I got it home and read the warning on the label that it was carcinogenic, I took it straight back.

[Tim Marlow]

If you have trouble sleeping you could always use Ether! Chloroform works as well....both MEK and Cellulose thinners have MSDS exposure limits, but MEK use only advices good ventilation, not respiratory protection. You can minimise exposure in use by decanting the bulk to a small narrow necked bottle so reducing evaporation.
Back to the real world though, not all MEK/Butan-1-one solutions are the same....the old school Slaters MEK PAK was the most user friendly of them all, but I can’t find it now. Daywat poly is much “hotter” melting plastic much more quickly. Others I’ve tried seem closer to Daywat. These days I mostly use EVA as a MEK type liquid glue. It has properties that are similar to MEK PAK, so is less aggressive, but seems slightly harder to control, not coming off the brush so cleanly. I have both Tamiya glues but have never opened them....to use the liquid types I use cheaper hair based number 1 paintbrushes. For long joints I have a cheap number 1 rigger as it holds more glue. I think if you use rule one for chemicals, “if you can smell it you need ventilation” , you should be fine for modelling use.
Cheers
Tim

[AlanG]

both MEK and Cellulose thinners have MSDS exposure limits, but MEK use only advices good ventilation, not respiratory protection. You can minimise exposure in use by decanting the bulk to a small narrow necked bottle so reducing evaporation.

After working for 17 years in engineering using MEK and suffering an exposure to MEK fumes, i accept that the MSDS CoSHH database advises good ventilation. But going on the basis that most modellers workspaces are smallish, confined areas, i would still recommend the mask.

Each to their own though. Once bitten, twice shy these days.

[Guest]

Right that's it, I've plans for an out side covered assembly and gluing area. !

Joking apart, the replies to this post have been both enlightening and frightening, as Al has said most of us probably work in confined areas and the thought of breathing harmful fumes does not impress me.
I had enough of dust and chemical fumes when working.

Quite often I've had a head ache after a gluing session, more so when I have one of those oil heaters on when working in the winter months.

Using a glue which doesn't have strong fumes can still be worrying so I shall have more ventilation in future .
Pleased that this thread was started in the first place .
John .

[Tim Marlow]

Hi Alan
From a safety perspective “elimination” comes before “protection”. If you work in a really confined area with little or no ventilation I would actually recommend using something else, such as contacta. Wearing personal protective equipment (PPE) should always be very much a last resort.

[Guest]

I always use revell contacta. To me it smells like pear drops (which i love).

That’s because certain solvents are chemically similar to the substances that give fruit its smell, and so the receptors in your nose respond to both in similar ways. If it smells like pear drops, it probably contains ethyl acetate.

[Dave W]

You would be also wise to point out that MEK is VERY flammable and also VERY toxic. The vapours can cause you a lot of damage to your nervous and breathing systems. MEK was the replacement Trichloroethane or Trich as it's known (now banned). Ventilation is paramount and the use of a recognised vapour mask is also advised. I am saying this as i have a first hand knowledge of just how bad MEK is. I was placed on oxygen because i was overcome by the vapours. I was also witness to an explosion when MEK vapours ignited due to a static discharge. It's not a liquid to be messed with.

I work in the aviation industry and it’s definitely not a liquid to mess around with. I personally won’t use it for modelling purposes.Even though I have access to as much as I want for free. When I was in the RAF I used it to clean the fuel couplings inside an F4 Phantom before fitting the bag tanks. I was in an enclosed space and suddenly felt like I was swimming in mid air. My safety man realised some thing was wrong,grabbed my collar and pulled me out. This was the late 70’s and we didn’t have proper breathing equipment.So if you are using it be careful.

[Bortig the Viking]

Hi, I'm getting totally confused over my glue, I have tamiya extra thin with a strong smell, but have seen deluxe plastic magic which is supposed to have low smell. My dilemma is I've read pros and cons for both and need help choosing the best one, low smell and quality would be good but want good performance as well. Help !!!

[BattleshipBob]

Hi mr viking, hope the long boat is well

I have moved to deluxe and have had no headaches, no compliants about glue smells and the 2 supplied brushes are ideal. Only issue i have found is it evaporates quite quickly, but i will stick with it.

[Guest]

I am so pleased I put this glue thread up as we have also learnt about the harmful smells we breathe while glueing.
I know I have ordered Tamiya extra thin but when I come to use it I will air on the side of caution.

[Dave W]

Hi, I'm getting totally confused over my glue, I have tamiya extra thin with a strong smell, but have seen deluxe plastic magic which is supposed to have low smell. My dilemma is I've read pros and cons for both and need help choosing the best one, low smell and quality would be good but want good performance as well. Help !!!

I used Revell ‘contacta’ for years. Then last tear I tried Tamiya extra thin and have been using it ever since. Easy to use and dries faster than my old stuff.

[Bortig the Viking]

Crikes, may just have to try the deluxe and see for myself, trial and error seems to be the order of the day.
Thanks bobthestug, no raping and pillaging for me at the moment, my long ship is in for repairs, sprung a leak!
I wonder what glue they use! Haha.