How to apply decals to a model

[Guest]

When making model kits from Revell and Airfix, you get the decals.

I have problems applying the smaller items, as I find it difficult to transfer them from the transfer paper onto the model.

Does anyone have any tips on how to remove and apply them?

[Guest]

Usually when I apply smaller decals I carefully position them with a toothpick or earbud, and then once in position I gently dab them with a small piece of kitchen roll or again using the earbud I roll it across the decal soaking up any water.

I think the trick is to let the decal soak long enough so the adhesive on the backing paper is nice and slippery, but not to have so much water between the decal and model surfaces that its too difficult to position the decal.

Microset can aid in the positioning as it softens the decal slightly.

One tip I found on here was not to let the decal swim in water when soaking, I just dip in water and place on a ceramic tile.

Atb,

Colin.

[rickoshea52]

I found this youtube video helpful.

[Guest]

I found this youtube video helpful.

Thank you.

But how do you remove them from the backing and place them on the models in the first place.

the larger ones are easy to slide off - but it is the small fiddly ones that I have problems with

[stona]

Thank you.But how do you remove them from the backing and place them on the models in the first place.

the larger ones are easy to slide off - but it is the small fiddly ones that I have problems with

I use a good pair of tweezers to hold the backing and slide the decal off, from roughly the right place, using a tooth pick. Sometimes you may have to partially slide the decal to give enough backing to get a grip on but don't go too far! Decals have a nasty habit of curling under the paper!!!!

A tip for long decals like wing walk demarcations.....don't try and apply several centimetres in one go. Cut them down into manageable lengths.

Cheers

Steve

[Guest]

Found the best way is to cut your decal card with a longer piece of card one side & close up to the decal on the other.

Dip in water. PS in the Shop John has a decal bath. Very nice as the decal can just sit on water without drowning also easy to fish the decal out.

Then holding the longer end of the decal lay the decal on its back ground card in the position it is to go but fractionally to one side of it position on the model. With the smooth end of the tweezers gently pull the decal from the card background just a fraction on to the model. Hold the decal there with the tweezers then with the other hand gently pull the background card away & the decal will lie neatly on the model. Do that carefully & you should not have to carry out any repositioning.

I find there is enough water on the decal without having to wet the surface of the model. To much water on the model surface and the decal will think itself a fish & swim away.

Laurie

[Guest]

I use a bit of flat sponge in my decal water (those cheap flat washing up sponges are ideal)

Just fill the container to just under the level of the sponge and place decal on top, press down with what ever you use to seat your decals, (ear-bud for me) to start the water soaking into the backing paper and let then sponge do the rest.

No sinking decals, no soggy separating decals, no hassle ... cost = 10 odd pence ..... job done

[Guest]

I follow Laurie's description with his warning about the decal swimming away. The OP particularly mentions the smaller decals. My 1/72 Spitfire has some decals only a couple of mm square. The problem that I had was the thick (deep) blob of decal fixer liquid that lay on the model along with the relatively large amount of water adhering to the decal when removed from the bath. These were very thick in proportion to the tiny decal which floated uncontrollably over the model, partly affected by the surface tension of the blob.

To cure that (before taking the decal from the bath) I removed most of the decal fixer from the model, removed the decal from the bath and touched the underside of the decal backing paper and the tweezers briefly on to a paper towel to remove any blobs of water. Then I brushed a very small amount of decal fixer on to the backing. (Use a very small brush.) Then, when putting the backing paper on to the model and sliding off the decal with a sharp toothpick rather than a brush I was able to control the position of the decal by pushing it about with the toothpick. Then I reduced any excess liquid from the site by touching it with a paper towel but left enough to allow the decal to be moved finally into place by the toothpick (it needs liquid to lubricate that movement, so don't remove all the liquid or the decal will settle and be difficult and possibly impossible to move).

Then, as usual, roll a fairly dry cotton bud over the decal. Practice with a relatively unimportant decal.

[Guest]

Depending on the decal, as the backings are disimilar, you actually hardly need water. Just enough to get through the backing paper (non will go thro the actual decal) & soften the adhesive content. Iwould say about 10 to 15 secs is enough. Lay, Colin's(CDW) slightly damp sponge is ideal, the decal on the sponge & that is good enough for most decals. The decal is dampened just enough to slide from the backing. If it will not press the backing side onto the sponge.

Laurie