Tamiya 1:350 Japanese Battleship Musashi Build Thread

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it is impressive, but i think there is a point where a model is not a model anymore but a real boat! and i think they have crossed that line!!!

talk about what you want untill i get this back under way!!!

[Guest]

Good point RJ, I guess it is a cruise boat. People can live,sleep , eat on it.

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The link doesn't want to work for me I'm afraid.

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Sorry Bunkie, if you are getting the Wanadoo search engine page just try francois zanellas boat on it.

[Guest]

Thanks Duncan.

Well an amazing thing and in the most literal sense of the definition definately a model.

I do think it has gone over the line though and, as it has been built utilising normal shipbuilding skills and techniques and incorporating no modelling skills I have trouble considering it a model. Lets face it there are many hundreds of thousands of small boats out there considerably smaller than this all built without any modelling techniques.

Nevertheless a stunning acheivement and I am sure it would be very interesting to see it and sail in it but why on earth of all the ships out there he would choose one of the ugliest ones I don't know. I could see the point in the QE2, Norway, or any traditional liner but the Majesty of the Seas!!!

Ah well, takes all sorts. Thanks for the link Duncan, I am sure there are many varied views on this masterpeice.

[Guest]

Agreed on all points. I`d have gone for Norway or QE II. I dont see elegance in the most modern of floating sky-scrapers, QM II included.

[Guest]

The fact that the QMII was built at the same yard as the Majesty of the Seas might have something to do with it. ...and the fact that it was French yard!!

[Guest]

ok i have picked up a cheap r/c car from boots.

i plan to utilise most of it electronics. hopefully i will make the servo's controll 2 cam shafts that will turn the turrets. i had thought of using the motors to power the props, but then im making a waterline model so thats pretty pointless.i might use them to power an altinator for some lights?

any thoughts or ideas/opinions will be most appriciated!!!

[Guest]

right, well after an un-planned break in this prject (excuse the pun) i now how a new kit (still need to get a new set of p/e details) but in the next week or so i will finaly manage to get back onto this project.

i have washed, sanded, washed and primed the new hull.

just waiting on some paints to get started properly again.

big thank you to toby (squiffythewombat) for his excellant service and cooperation (and patcience/putting up with me)

[Guest]

right, got new (in one piece) hull primed and painted.

i couldnt for the life of me get the masks for the lower red colour right but iv almost got it and with a bit of tinkering it should be mostly striaght and level!

anyways im happy with it and i think the colour tamiya's TS-33 (dull red) is beautifull and really does go well with the XF-12 (J.N. Grey) but im sure it would go lovely with british and american naval colours as well.

Richard or nigel (or anyone else with ship building experience....i know there is alot on here) can you give any tips on how to get the water-line straight for the furture? or is it just trial and error.

like i said, im happy with it.

(the front end look like it goes up a bit but i think that might be todo with the curvature of the vessel??)

comments would be great, sorry about the picture quality, the lighting was not good enough to get the focus right!

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[Guest]

Richard,

To get a waterline correct you must place the model in it's stand with the hull level and firmly held in place on a flat level surface such as a worktop. The hull should be primed with a matt primer. Get a block of wood with a nice flat base and attach a pencil to it with some sort of tape at the correct height of the waterline edge. The best place to use as the datum is at the stem post (bow).

Then simply drag the pencil around the hull by holding the block of wood and gently create the line in pencil around the hull.

This is the only way to create accurate waterlines as they always follow the shape of the waterplane at the top and bottom of the waterline, hence the actual width of the line varies with the angle of the hull, therefore using lining tape will never give an accurate waterline.

Once you have the top and bottom line you simply apply masking tape to the pencil line and paint between the tape.

I the past I have done the grey first, masked the top of the waterline only and sprayed black, then masked the bottom and painted the red last. This worked quite well for me and gave a very neat finish with an accurate waterline.

[Guest]

ahh no Richard this ship does not have a waterline in that sence, i simply ment the lint at which the red stops and the grey begins, but the wood and pencil method seems a good one, thanks alot!!!

[Guest]

Same procedure applies exept you only have one line to deal with rather than two.

[Guest]

Richard, its coming on well matey, thats going to look really nice once its finnished! (note: keep well away from sisters, lol)

[Guest]

right, iv got the funnel nearly done. just got to add some extra pipes to it, straighten out the black and add the mesh to the top.

had a bit of touble getting the walkway straight as it was not quite the right shape (it was a p/e part) so a bit of cutting and bending and iv got it the best i can! search lights arent fineshed, got to touch up a bit but i just stuck them on for the photo.

got the aft part of the deck down, this is the part where the planes come out of the hanger (that what those doors are) and a crain lift them up onto the main deck and onto the caterpault. Just waiting for the new p/e kit to come which should arive tomorrow before i can make the crain (which is entierly p/e apart from the base :S ) got the 25mm gun footplates down, just waiting for the new p/e set so i can do the sights for them.

i will hopefully have the front and rear deck down within a couple of weeks. Baring in mind i have to make another 2 45" turrets and one smaller one and lots of sights for the 25mm guns. the sights are all about 4mm long by 1 1/2 mm wide and have to be bent into quite a complicated form! about 10 minutes a pop and i have about 20 to do!!!

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