Revell 1/96 Spanish Galleon

[boatman]

VERY nice work MR ConKers as John said fit some foil behind the lights so all light is directed to the windows an certainly no open wood fire do the ship would go up or down as the case may be lol but its comin on some nice work there keep at it as i'll be followin an if this turns out half as good as your cutty sark we are in for a treat
chris

[Bobby Conkers]

I'm sure you know that you can get really small led's that will work for your lanterns, even ones that flicker. Remember that no open flames were ever a good idea on sailing ships, only the galley stove. lanterns were in horn enclosures giving them a warm yellow orange glow. I make a small tube of clear plastic for lamps although you could easily use clear of even transparent yellow straws cut to length. I would try to avoid the red and white spiral coloured straws.

John

Ooh, never thought of that!

I have flickerers down to 1.8mm, haven't found any smaller in warm white/yellow/orange. I had intended to hide them from a casual view, but the clear straw idea (with some clear yellow enamel I have) might just work...

[Jim R]

Hi Andrew
This is coming on a treat. The lighting makes a real difference. Neat paintwork - lots of fiddly bits.
Jim

[Bobby Conkers]

Thank you.

I hasten to add, that's not assembled! I just got the bits out and blu tacked them to see how the lights worked in the "room".

[Bobby Conkers]

So, I have all the bits I need to make my lanterns, except something convincing in which to house them.

Tried to make a mould and create the tops using blu tac and candle wax. You'll be amazed to learn it didn't work.

Brains please - what would you use to create the top and bottom of the light housing itself? I can make the bit in between and the posts, but can't think of a household object which could be upcycled. I don't have resin moulding equipment...

There is one in the kit as below, and just need to create the shade and saucer (?) bits.

[ATTACH]415363[/ATTACH]

[wotan]

Andrew

Both bits could easily be moulded. I would suggest you try some epoxy putty, but failing that plaster, Fimo or even paper clay (made of toilet paper and white glue, check out google). I would remove the little ball on the top, since it can easily be replaced later. then press the top, pointy end first into plasticine (for moulding paperclay) or epoxy putty and allow to set. When you pull out the piece you should have a simple mould that you can then press more epoxy putty into. The same process for the bottom.

If you want to get more sophisticated something like Composimold is a reusable moulding material that you can press epoxy putty into to make small parts.

I expect somebody will come up with something easier but these ideas are not complex.

John

[Bobby Conkers]

Thank you John.

I've ordered some O gauge lamps which I will try and modify with my own LEDs, but I'll try your suggestion as well, sounds a good technique to learn.

[Isitme]

Might go with sails this time, tbc. My mother in law thinks she can use the plastic sails as a mould and knock some proper fabric with starch and tea staining.

For sails, mix up a solution of white glue (PVA) and water and plain tissue paper, lay the tissue over the original and then gently use a brush to allow the glue mix to run all over the tissue and then lave to completely dry. Once totally dry you can again stain in a sail colour, allow to dry and then gently peel off.
Hope this helps
Mike.

[Bobby Conkers]

Andrew

Both bits could easily be moulded. I would suggest you try some epoxy putty, but failing that plaster, Fimo or even paper clay (made of toilet paper and white glue, check out google). I would remove the little ball on the top, since it can easily be replaced later. then press the top, pointy end first into plasticine (for moulding paperclay) or epoxy putty and allow to set. When you pull out the piece you should have a simple mould that you can then press more epoxy putty into. The same process for the bottom.

If you want to get more sophisticated something like Composimold is a reusable moulding material that you can press epoxy putty into to make small parts.

I expect somebody will come up with something easier but these ideas are not complex.

John

Ok, so I have some epoxy putty. I have it setting on the part as we speak. Once it's set, and the part pulled out, how do I use the putty next? Do I push it into my mould then wait for it to set as well, or pull out the new bit of putty to stop it fusing to the mould?

[Neil Merryweather]

Ok, so I have some epoxy putty. I have it setting on the part as we speak. Once it's set, and the part pulled out, how do I use the putty next? Do I push it into my mould then wait for it to set as well, or pull out the new bit of putty to stop it fusing to the mould?

use the epoxy putty for the moulding but you must use a release agent, like vaseline, to stop the two sticking together. Just leave it till it's cured and then remove it, otherwise it will distort.
Did you use a release agent on the part? if not , you won't get them apart when it's cured!

[Bobby Conkers]

use the epoxy putty for the moulding but you must use a release agent, like vaseline, to stop the two sticking together. Just leave it till it's cured and then remove it, otherwise it will distort.
Did you use a release agent on the part? if not , you won't get them apart when it's cured!

Oops...

[Tim Marlow]

Possibly information that should have been supplied up front Neil :loudly-crying:

[Bobby Conkers]

Phew. It came out without issue or stickiness. Maybe the grease from my fingers was enough!

Lesson learned, pot of olive oil on standby.

[Bobby Conkers]

Quick play about. I will do this again with the part properly sanded (and the nobble lopped off), but it's dried rock solid and even the join lines show!

[Neil Merryweather]

Quick play about. I will do this again with the part properly sanded (and the nobble lopped off), but it's dried rock solid and even the join lines show!

lets see some pictures